Lycian Way: what to see, when to go

Turkey can be five-star, "all-inclusive," with water parks and entertainers. It can be Istanbul-style, with cats, simit for breakfast, and bazaars for the rest of the day. But there's also a third kind of Turkey – a walking, hiking, ancient, Lycian one. For those whom no architectural masterpieces can turn away from the views of mountains, gorges, and forests, the latter is the most desired. Let's talk about it!

The Lycian Way is one of the most famous and picturesque hiking trails in the world, located in southern Turkey, along the historical region of Lycia. Officially, its length is 540 km, but with all additions and branches, it totals 760 km. It's impossible to cover this on foot in a week or even two, so tourists either divide the route into parts – east, center, west – or take a long vacation and come to Turkey for a whole month.

The essence of such a hike is to explore the most beautiful part of the Mediterranean coast. Here you can see turquoise sea and mountain peaks, picturesque cliffs and secluded beaches, pine forests and olive groves. You'll also encounter authentic local villages, ruins of ancient cities, and rock-cut tombs.

Features of the Lycian Way

An important advantage is the developed infrastructure. Since the Lycian Way is very popular, along the route, tourists can find campsites, guesthouses, and small villages where it's easy to find food, water, souvenirs and even an equivalent of "garage sales" with antique household items. Many sections of the trail run along the coast, so you can stop for a swim.

The most popular sections of the trail are marked with red and white signs. By following them, you won't get lost, even if you go hiking without a guide.

Difficulties and Nuances

• Fires are forbidden! No way, no kind, nowhere. Forest fires are no joke. To cook food, you need to bring a gas burner.
• The trail often passes through rocky and uneven terrain, so sturdy trekking shoes are a must-have.
• Not all villages have guesthouses with a full range of amenities. Some routes involve overnight stays in tents.
• Some sections have significant altitude changes, so a minimum level of physical fitness will still be useful.
• In late November, February, and March, it can be cold in the evenings on high sections of the trail, so you need to bring warm clothing – a light down jacket, a fleece sweatshirt, trousers.
• Before the trip, you need to arrange insurance for the "Active Recreation" category.
• Although there are sources of drinking water along the entire trail, they sometimes dry up in hot weather, so you should always carry a supply.
• In forested areas, you may encounter animals, not just cute turtles, but also snakes, wild boars, and various unpleasant insects. When passing through dense thickets, we advise rustling a stick in front of you to scare away reptiles.

Western Part

This refers to the route from Fethiye to Olympos or Çıralı. This part is generally considered more popular and visited than the eastern part. The reasons are simple: tourist infrastructure is better developed, landscapes are more diverse, and trail markings (red and white signs) are clearer, which facilitates navigation.

The western part is easier to reach from Fethiye by taking flights to Dalaman. Compared to the eastern part, the western part has fewer steep ascents and descents, and pine forests, sandy beaches, olive groves, and ruins of ancient cities are abundant. The corresponding downside is more people during high season.

What to see along the way

Fethiye: the starting point for hikes along the Lycian Way. A resort town deep within the bay of the same name. Yachts gently sway by the shore, and an atmosphere of serenity permeates the streets.

Ölüdeniz: "that" lagoon from advertising brochures – with turquoise water and a sandy beach, ranked among the most beautiful in the world.

Kabak: a tiny village with a wild beach. Buses don't go here, and you can only get there on foot, along the Lycian Way. The reward is a semi-hipster atmosphere with camping in wooden cabins or caravans.

Butterfly Valley: a gorge hidden between cliffs with waterfalls and hundreds of rare butterflies. You can get here by water (which most people do) or by a steep hiking trail (which is more suitable for tourists on the Lycian Way).

Kaş: a romantic, picturesque, and most atypical town for the Turkish coast. Besides houses with colorful Greek-style shutters, it's worth seeing the Lycian tombs and going diving here.

Kalkan: an elegant resort town, adorned with bougainvillea, with white houses and narrow streets leading down to a quiet harbor.

Patara: an ancient city with ruins of an amphitheater, a triumphal arch, and baths. The local beach is considered the largest in Turkey – about 6 km long!

Xanthos: once the capital of Lycia, and now a UNESCO World Heritage site. The local architecture illustrates the rise and fall of various civilizations – from an ancient theater to a Byzantine church.

Letoon: the former religious center of Lycia, a sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Leto and her children Apollo and Artemis. Another UNESCO site for archaeology and history enthusiasts.

Central Part

There is no strict definition of the central part's boundaries, but it most often refers to the section from Kaş or Kalkan to Olympos or Çıralı. This segment is rightly considered the easiest: there are few steep ascents and descents, and many sections run along the coast or forest trails with a moderate incline. However, there aren't huge numbers of travelers here. Why? It's all about the distance from arrival points – Dalaman or Antalya. This part is notable primarily for its beaches, often wild and undeveloped by hotel chains or cities due to their inaccessibility.

Among the downsides – on the section from Demre to Finike, the highway winds directly along the coast, with no settlements along the way. Travelers without tents have nowhere to spend the night here, so it makes sense to use transport. You can, of course, go high into the mountains, but there you'll face a serious ascent of 2,000 meters, followed by a similar descent.

What to see along the way

Kaputaş Beach: one of Turkey's most beautiful beaches, located in a narrow gorge between cliffs. "Package" tourists are not brought here, and mainly locals come to the beach. There are no sun loungers or bars, but there is a gentle entry into the water.

Apollonia: ruins of an ancient city – theater, agora, mosaic, tomb, watchtowers. The place is not the most popular, so you can explore the remains of a vanished civilization in solitude and silence.

Simena: an important Lycian port, destroyed by an earthquake. Only the fortress on the hill remains as a reminder of its former glory. Most of Simena's buildings have disappeared underwater. On land, tombs, a theater near the fortress walls, and a sarcophagus remain.

Üçağız: a village off the road connecting Kaş and Demre. From here, boats depart with those wishing to explore Kekova Island.

Demre: rock-cut tombs, a well-preserved amphitheater, and an acropolis. A journey along the Lycian Way will allow you to see the Ancient City of Myra in Demre without crowds of tourists.

Finike: unlike its neighbors, it was never abandoned, so old buildings were replaced by new ones, and almost no ancient architectural structures have survived. This is well compensated by the city's modern noble appearance.

Eastern Part

Usually, the eastern part of the Lycian Way refers to the section from Geyikbayırı to the town of Olympos or Çıralı beach. Some also add the distance from Olympos to Adrasan. It starts near Antalya, so you can fly here by direct flight and immediately head to the mountains.

This part is considered less visited and wilder compared to the western part, but also more popular among tourists from Russia. There are fewer settlements and tourist infrastructure here, but more steep ascents and descents. So, good physical preparation and experience in mountain hiking will definitely be needed. The eastern part passes through dense forests, especially in the area of Mount Tahtalı (also known as Mount Olympos). Thanks to this, there will be shade on hot days, but the views will be less open. Guesthouses are not found everywhere, so it's better to go here with a tent.

What to see along the way

Olympos: an ancient city where Roman temple gates, remains of baths at the river mouth, and other ancient structures have been preserved. Nearby is the beach of the same name – pebbly, wide, with turquoise water.

Çıralı: a sandy beach surrounded by pine trees. From May to September, loggerhead turtles settle here for their nesting period, so being on the beach from 8 AM to 8 PM is prohibited.

Chimaera: the burning flames on Mount Yanartaş, where natural gas sources emerge. Entrance to the complex is paid. Although it is said that the most spectacular view of the flames is after sunset, it is not advisable to travel in the dark.

Adrasan: a picturesque bay with a long sandy beach. The water here is clean and transparent. The bottom can be seen even at a depth of 25 meters. A good place for diving and snorkeling.

Gedelme: a village located at an altitude of 700 meters, with castle ruins, the Peynir-Deli cave, and a giant plane tree over 2500 years old.

Göynük Canyon: six meters wide, six kilometers long, 350 meters high. On the sides – waterfalls, below – a river, all around – an incredible palette: white stone, emerald water surface, lush green plants.

Geyikbayırı: a popular area among rock climbers. Even if you are indifferent to this activity yourself, you can always watch other daredevils climb the sheer slopes.

When is the best time to go to the Lycian Way

Since hiking is a completely different type of recreation than sightseeing-museum and beach-lounging, it requires different weather conditions. A tour along the Lycian Way involves physical exertion, which means high air temperatures will only complicate everything. Therefore, experienced guides and escorts consider two periods of the year ideal – from mid-March to mid-May and from late September to late November.

In December and January, the air warms up to +18-20 degrees Celsius, and sometimes there are rains. In February, it gets warmer, with less rain and more sun. With the arrival of spring in March, you can already start swimming in the bays, but the water is still cool, invigorating, for those who like it. April is probably the best time in spring: it gets warm up to +25, flowers bloom, it can be cold at night, but it's very comfortable on the coast. May is popular due to the long weekends, but the closer it gets to summer, the hotter it gets on the Lycian Way. June-August should not be considered precisely because of high temperatures. During this time, you can go on a one-day trek: leave at 6 AM and return to the hotel by noon. But from September, the high season on the trail gradually begins. The air is +30, the western part is especially good at this time, and in October, it sometimes rains. November is the optimal time: +23-27 degrees are comfortable for long hikes, and the sea is still very pleasant at this time.

Lycian Way Hiking Options

One-day hike

This method is for those who are just considering the prospect of hiking and want to know "what's it all about." No difficulties: settle into any hotel of your choice, and book a trip to the mountains for one day. The only equipment required is comfortable closed-toe shoes. Sneakers – yes, beach flip-flops – no.

Radial Exploration

The same, but a bit more extensive. You live in one place and go hiking in the surrounding area. Here it's better to choose a hotel not in popular resort towns like Kemer and Antalya, but a little further away, yet closer to the start of the trail. You should bring hiking shoes, a backpack for food and water, a flashlight, and a compact rain jacket.

Lightweight Hike

This is already a full-fledged hike, but without the downsides of tent accommodation. It's important to plan the route so that each day's trek ends in a village or town where you can comfortably stay in a guesthouse. It's not necessary to carry a lot of food, as shops and cafes are regularly found in settlements. The set of items will need to be expanded to include spare sets of clothes, toiletries, and beach towels.

Lightweight, but with a guide

A popular option for organized hikes along the Lycian Way. You get the full range of emotions from "wild" recreation – mornings in tents, evenings on deserted beaches, food cooked for the group. At the same time, all your luggage is transported from point to point by car. A good option if you cannot or do not want to carry heavy loads.

Full-fledged hike with a heavy backpack

The good old classic. Complete unity with nature, the opportunity to admire the night sky, sunsets, sunrises, and fabulous landscapes. Hiking romance in all its glory. But even for this option, Turkey offers an added comfort – equipped campsites along the trail.

How to get to the Lycian Way

The easiest way to start is from Antalya. Here you can order a taxi directly from the airport to Geyikbayırı village or go to the bus station and take a bus from there.

The second option is to fly to Dalaman, then get to Fethiye or Ölüdeniz by rented car (with an additional fee for leaving it at the final destination) or by taxi.