To Europe in the Footsteps of Russian Writers

If you're sad that a trip to Europe now requires a layover in Istanbul or another city, and therefore takes more time, remember that in previous centuries it took weeks. And visas were also required! Which, however, did not stop Russian writers. They traveled for inspiration, for treatment, or on diplomatic missions. And then they described their impressions in diaries, letters, and books. We have selected six cities visited by famous writers, where you can follow in their footsteps.

Travemünde, Germany: "to the waters," like Dostoevsky

So, northern Germany, the Baltic Sea coast, a quiet resort town. European aristocracy loved to gather here in the 19th century. And it's understandable: the climate here is very pleasant, not cold in winter, not hot in summer, a steady +24 degrees air and +23 degrees water. Literally – just what the doctor ordered. Germans came here (and continue to come) to follow such a prescription.

Fyodor Mikhailovich could be found here at the casino. The local gambling house has been operating since 1815 and is considered the oldest in Europe. And how else could one write "The Gambler" without personally losing a large sum in gambling? In the evening, play roulette, and in the morning, go "to the waters" – to restore failing health, to get rid of nervous ailments, both those acquired recently and those earned.

But we recommend you spend your time more productively. Firstly, go to the beach. And it's very wide and comfortable here: sandy, with many woven sun shelters, like in the movie "Some Like It Hot." Secondly, stroll through the quiet streets along typical half-timbered houses. Thirdly, visit the Ostsee-Therme water park.

How to get there: to Hamburg there are flights with layovers in Dalaman, Istanbul, Antalya. From there, you can reach Travemünde by car or train.

Opatija, Croatia: to the Adriatic, like Chekhov

In general, the entire Croatian coast is one continuous beauty and resort delight. And so it has been for the past almost 500 years. Venetian nobility began to vacation here, then they were replaced by Austro-Hungarian nobility. And it was they who thoroughly took on the city's appearance, building luxurious villas.

In 1894, Anton Pavlovich Chekhov also visited here, later mentioning Abbazia (the former name of Opatija) in his story "Ariadne." It is often written that the writer spoke not very well of the resort, describing it as "a Slavic little town with only one street, along which one cannot walk after rain without galoshes." But for some reason, it is overlooked that these words belonged not to the narrator, but to Ivan Shamokhin, whom he met, and who primarily criticized the bourgeois lifestyle of fashionable European resorts. And yet, he went on to say: "There is a quiet bay here, where steamboats and boats with colorful sails ply; from here, both Fiume and distant islands covered in a purple haze are visible. […] And the dark, motionless, silent green of palms, and the bright yellow sand on the avenues, and the bright green benches."

The residents of Opatija evidently read Chekhov's lines more carefully, and so in 2013, a bust of the writer was installed near the "Kvarner" hotel. Besides that, in the city, you should definitely see Villa Angiolina, the Lungomare promenade, and the local beaches.

How to get there: although the nearest airports are located in Pula and Rijeka, it's better to take tickets to Zagreb, and then reach Opatija by bus in just three hours.

Capri, Italy: or in Sorrento, like Gorky

A small island in the Bay of Naples is now considered almost synonymous with luxurious holidays. One only needs to glance at photos of its coast to understand that this is pure truth. The sea in mesmerizing shades of blue and turquoise, cut by white streaks left behind by luxury yachts. High cliffs with green caps of forests and winding roads. Colorful houses descending in tiers to the shores. Ancient statues and ripe lemons.

Vacations on Capri became fashionable in the mid-19th century: Vyazemsky and Gogol also came here. But much more interesting are the years spent here by Maxim Gorky. The writer went to Capri on the recommendation of doctors (due to the climate of southern Italy) and lived on the island for seven years. First, he stayed at the Quisisana hotel, then moved to Villa Blesus, where Lenin also visited him. In March 1909, Gorky settled in Villa Spinola, and two years later moved to Villa Serafina. Today, plaques are installed on them in memory of the time the Russian writer spent there.

However, you don't necessarily have to sail to Capri itself to catch a piece of its Italian inspiration. It's enough to go to Sorrento. Gorky also lived here for several years, at Villa Il Sorito. The artist Valentina Khodasevich, who visited him, wrote about the locals' attitude towards the writer: "Gorky's popularity among the Neapolitans was so immense, and their love so expansive, that it was almost impossible to walk with him through the streets. […] Fans, "guarding the peace of Signor Gorky," ran around, shouting at the top of their voices: "Viva Gorki!""

What to see on Capri? First and foremost – the Blue Grotto: it was this that "opened" the island to the European public. Afterwards, be sure to visit Anacapri, and from there take the chairlift to the summit of Monte Solaro. In Sorrento, you just need to walk through the historic center and admire the complex geometry of its narrow streets.

How to get there: the most convenient flights to Naples are available with layovers in Istanbul or Dubai. Ferries to the island depart from Naples and Sorrento, and in summer also from Positano and Amalfi.

Baden-Baden, Germany: through "Smoke," like Turgenev

Baden-Baden is strongly associated with something health-related and resort-like. So much so that many thermal complexes in Russia have adopted its name (for example, in Yekaterinburg, Chelyabinsk, and Kurgan). Meanwhile, the German city itself has a population of only 50,000 people and 20 sources of medicinal water. This is what attracted the Russian aristocracy here: the Dolgorukys, Volkonskys, Menshikovs, Vyazemskys, Golitsyns. Zhukovsky also worked here on his translation of "The Odyssey." But the city's strongest connection was with Turgenev.

In total, Ivan Sergeevich spent about ten years in Baden-Baden. During this time, he built a villa for himself next to Pauline Viardot's house. It is still located at Fremersbergstrasse 47, but unfortunately, it cannot be visited. However, a bronze monument to the writer has been erected in a nearby square. Nevertheless, its best version is literary, the novel "Smoke," the action of which takes place precisely in Baden-Baden.

Once in the city, you must take a stroll along Lichtentaler Allee, which is often mentioned in the book. Then, visit the Kurhaus resort with its famous casino: Dostoevsky once lost a large sum of money there. Today, conferences, congresses, seminars, birthdays, and weddings are held here. In the morning hours, tours of the building are organized.

How to get there: there is an airport in nearby Karlsruhe, but flying there is not very convenient. It is much cheaper to take tickets to Stuttgart (you will need to make a layover in Antalya or Istanbul), and then take a train from there. The average travel time is just over an hour.

Rome, Italy: for art, like Fonvizin

The Eternal City and the capital of Italy. It seems as if you don't even need a strict tourist route in Rome. Just leave your hotel and go wherever your eyes lead you. Every building along the way will turn out to be remarkable and interesting anyway.

Given Rome's age, it's no surprise that creative intellectuals sought to visit it more than two hundred years ago. This included Fonvizin, whose "The Minor" we still read as part of the school curriculum. The playwright, along with his wife, traveled to a warm climate to improve their health. Together they visited Florence, Pisa, Lucca, and Livorno. They also intended to visit Naples: Denis Ivanovich wanted to see Mount Vesuvius erupting. But the volcano calmed down, and so they went to Rome.

The writer's impressions of Italy were mixed. On the one hand, he wrote that "the more we see of it [Rome], the more, it seems, there is left to see." On the other hand, the "cradle of Western civilization" did not make a great impression on the writer: "Only the arts are worth attention, everything else is unlike Europe." But Fonvizin truly appreciated St. Peter's Basilica: "I have been there thirty times already: I cannot get enough of the sight."

Indeed, the main cathedral of the Catholic Church is still a must-visit for tourists today. And also the Colosseum, the Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps. In parallel, you should eat pasta carbonara and amatriciana, Roman-style pizza, Roman-style artichokes, and gelato.

How to get there: tickets to Rome can easily be found with a layover in Yerevan.

Paris, France: for a thousand cafes, like Mayakovsky 

Of the entire list, Mayakovsky is perhaps the most significant traveler. He visited Poland, Czechoslovakia, Germany, France, Spain, Cuba, Mexico, and the USA. The poet repeatedly visited Paris, and these trips left a noticeable mark on his work and personal life.

His first trip took place in 1922. At that time, the poet visited La Rotonde, a famous establishment in Parisian artistic circles. Here, even today, French culinary classics like tartare are served. In 1925, Mayakovsky's arrival coincided with the opening of the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts. He was then awarded a silver medal for his advertising posters. He stayed at the Istria Hotel in the Montparnasse district, which continues to operate to this day. Among other "Mayakovsky" spots, La Coupole and Le Dôme cafes are worth mentioning.

Parisian impressions were reflected in many of Mayakovsky's works. He wrote about the city, its inhabitants, culture, and contrasts. His poems dedicated to Paris are often full of admiration and criticism simultaneously.

Where to go in Paris besides restaurants? Of course, to the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, the Luxembourg Gardens, and the Tuileries Garden. See Notre Dame Cathedral, which has just been restored after the terrible fire.

How to get there: the same Antalya or Istanbul will serve as layover points on the way to Paris.