Wineries on the Don, Part 1

There are several wine regions in Russia, and the Rostov region is one of them. But if trips to Russian wineries in the Krasnodar Krai and Crimea invariably include a seaside program, in the Don Valley nothing will distract from studying autochthonous grape varieties.

Why go to wineries at all

For wine, of course! To taste, to sample, to choose the best to your liking. And to buy a couple of bottles to take with you, as a souvenir, with a good discount. Winemakers will teach you to distinguish varieties, to feel those very nuances from the description – "notes of plum, pear, and vanilla." So that later, upon returning home, you can choose wine in stores and restaurants not at random, but with an understanding of the subject.

Secondly, a winery is the best place to get acquainted with the wine production process. Why this variety was planted and not another, why the vines are covered – you'll learn all about it. But besides that, a wine tour is simply beautiful. Imagine: long rows of vineyards, the rays of the setting sun filling a glass of white with golden sparkles... It's for such beauty that it's worth taking train tickets to Rostov.

"Tsimlyanskie Vina"

One of Russia's largest full-cycle winemaking enterprises. Grapes have been cultivated in this region for several centuries, starting even before the Khazar Khaganate period. However, the Cossacks are considered the founders of Don winemaking here, and the first documented bottle of Tsimlyansk sparkling wine was released in 1786. And while we now write "Tsimlyanskoye," Pushkin's "Eugene Onegin" refers to it by its previous name: "But here in a tarred bottle, between the roast and blancmange, Tsimlyanskoye is already being served!" The winery plans to build an entire tourist cluster dedicated to wine tourism, with a hotel, museum, restaurant, and festival grounds.

The enterprise has a rich, eventful history, with its ups and downs, and it's best to hear it from experienced guides. Especially since the prices for guided tours of the grounds are very democratic – from 800 rubles for a group of 10 people or more. Tasting the "hits" among white and red wines with sabrage will cost a bit more – 1,400 per person. The most luxurious option is the "My Tsimlyanskoye" tour. Firstly, it's individual: you can arrange a romantic date with a picnic in the vineyards. Secondly, you'll be introduced to the traditions of the Don Cossacks and even allowed to wield a shashka and a nagaika.

Location: Rostov region, Tsimlyansk, Lazo St., 1

Grape varieties grown: Aligote, Pervenets Magaracha, Tsvetochny, Denisovsky, Merlot, Muscat Hamburg, Tsimlyansky Cherny, and others.

Website: tsimlawines.ru

"Usadba Sarkel"

Enotour is a synonym for a wine tour. And an enogastronomic tour is when wine is accompanied by food. And "Usadba Sarkel" has certainly excelled in this. They produce over 20 types of sparkling and still wines, cider, vermouth, and grappa, as well as make cheeses using original Swiss and Italian starter cultures. The milk for them is also sourced locally, from private farms in the Tsimlyansk district. From autochthonous grapes, they produce red dry, sparkling, white dry, rosé, and pét-nat wines here.

The luxury of a visit to "Usadba" is also that it can be extended. This means you won't have to call a taxi after the tasting; you can stay overnight in the guesthouse. It is stylized as a Cossack kuren, which adds authenticity to the entire experience.

Location: Rostov region, Tsimlyansk district, Sarkel village, Zapadny lane 31

Grape varieties grown: Krasnostop Zolotovsky, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tsimlyansky Cherny, Sibirkovy, Saperavi, Denisovsky, Chardonnay, Riesling.

Also available: tasting room, showroom, scenic gazebo, children's playground, terrace, barbecue area, ATV rental, sandy beach.

Website: usadba-sarkel.ru 

"Vina Arpachina" Winery

The first vineyards, out of the current 28 hectares, appeared on the left bank of the Don in 2010. But looking at the main building of the winery, you wouldn't think so. That's because the architect chose a 19th-century industrial style for it – classical, symmetrical, elevated. Inside, however, there is entirely modern equipment from Italy, used to produce still and sparkling wines from autochthonous varieties. The first release of "Vina Arpachina" took place in 2013, and by 2021, a white wine from the Kumshatsky variety made it into the Top100wines.ru rating of Forbes magazine.

In Rostov-on-Don, there is a branded winery store where you can go for a tasting. After that, you can head to Manychskaya stanitsa, explore everything yourself, and taste wines accompanied by a sommelier. Guests are promised gifts and souvenirs.

Location: Rostov region, Manychskaya stanitsa, Sovetskaya street 173 A

Grape varieties grown: Tsimlyansky Cherny, Krasnostop Zolotovsky, Saperavi, Aligote, Pukhlyakovsky, Sibirkovy, Kumshatsky.

Website: vinaarpachina.ru

"Villa Zvezda" Winery

This winery is even younger than the previous one (established in 2013), but in terms of area, it's even larger. A full 100 hectares (!) in a unique terroir between the Sal and Don rivers. The climate here is continental, moderately arid. In summer, temperatures can rise to +42 °C, and in winter, they can drop to -30 °C. Day and night temperatures also show sharp fluctuations. But don't worry: this positively affects the aromatic and taste qualities of the Don autochthonous varieties.

Grapes at "Villa" are harvested manually, which results in less damage to the berries. They then go to "rest" in cold storage at +8-10 °C, and only then proceed to processing. At the winery, free-run must separation is performed, along with fermentation on the skins for red wines. Wines are aged in stainless steel tanks and French oak barriques. You will learn all about this on a tour, which can be booked by appointment.

Location: Rostov region, Tsimlyansk, Malaya Martynovka khutor, Administrativnaya street, 13A

Grape varieties grown: Krasnostop Zolotovsky, Tsimlyansky Cherny, Kumshatsky, Sibirkovy, Mushketny, Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc.

Website: villazvezda.ru 

Vinabani Winery

If you like "Fast & Furious" movies, you'll also like Vinabani winery – it's all about family here too. The fourth generation of the Khimichev family is already engaged in viticulture on this land. Cossack origin is regularly mentioned and celebrated here, relying on a freedom-loving character and steadfastness. So neither the challenging climate for winemaking, nor manual labor, nor specific production technology affected the family's desire to make wine. And what's more: grateful children and grandchildren dedicated the wine "Father" to their grandfather, Nikolai Mefodievich. This is a proprietary blend, released in a limited edition.

Funnily enough: the winery's name came about because the production equipment was placed in the building of a former Soviet banya (bathhouse). So it became – Vina Bani (Wines of the Bathhouse). You'll probably be taken there too if you sign up for a tour. The cost is 1,000 rubles per person for a group of five, or 5,000 rubles for everyone if there are fewer of you. The price includes a tasting, but it's better to add lunch or dinner to it: the owners arrange a lively feast for their guests and prepare dishes according to authentic Don Cossack recipes – carp ukha, boiled crayfish, duck with apples. You can stay right here, in a small hotel at the winery. Accommodation costs range from 2,500 to 5,000 rubles.

Location: Rostov region, Malaya Martynovka khutor, Administrativnaya street, 21

Grape varieties grown: Merlot, Saperavi, Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Rkatsiteli, Riesling, Chardonnay, Aligote.

Also available: you can buy locally produced jamon at the winery's shop.

Website: vinabani.ru