Greifswald

Founding and Early Mentions

The history of Greifswald traces its roots back to Eldena Abbey. At the end of the 12th century, Cistercian monks founded an abbey at the mouth of the River Ryck, around which a settlement soon began to form. The city's name, which translates to "Griffin's Forest," refers to the heraldic symbol of the Dukes of Pomerania — the mythical griffin.

A major milestone in the city's history occurred in 1250, when Duke Wartislaw III of Pomerania granted the settlement town rights under Lübeck law. This event solidified Greifswald's status as an independent and significant center in the region.

Key Factors of Formation

The transformation of a small settlement into a prosperous city was driven by a successful combination of geographical and political factors:

• Advantageous Geography: Its location on the navigable River Ryck with access to the Baltic Sea (Bay of Greifswald) made the city an ideal spot for maritime trade.
• Joining the Hanseatic League: As early as 1278, Greifswald became a member of the powerful Hanseatic League. This opened Northern European markets to local merchants and ensured economic growth.
• Trade Privileges: The city actively exported grain and fish and controlled important trade routes within Pomerania.

Early Cultural and Economic Characteristics

Economic prosperity fueled by trade allowed the city to develop a unique culture and architecture. Greifswald became a prominent example of the Brick Gothic style, seeing the construction of powerful defensive structures, wealthy burgher houses, and majestic churches such as St. Nicholas Cathedral.

The most significant event that shaped the city's destiny for centuries was the founding of the University of Greifswald in 1456. The initiative came from Mayor Heinrich Rubenow, which was a rarity for the time, as universities were typically established by monarchs or the church. This transformed the trading port into the region's most important intellectual center.

The Middle Ages and the Hanseatic Era

• 1250: Duke Wartislaw III of Pomerania officially grants the settlement town rights under Lübeck law.
• 1278: Greifswald joins the Hanseatic League, becoming a significant port and trading center on the Baltic Sea.
• 1456: The grand opening of the University of Greifswald, which became the second oldest university in the Baltic Sea region.
• 1531: The Reformation is officially adopted in the city, fundamentally changing church and social life.

The Swedish Period and Prussia

• 1648: Following the Peace of Westphalia, the city comes under the rule of the Swedish Crown and remains part of Swedish Pomerania for over a century and a half.
• 1815: After the Congress of Vienna, Greifswald becomes part of Prussia, joining the province of Pomerania.
• 1863: The opening of a railway line connecting the city with Berlin and Stralsund accelerates economic development.

The 20th Century and the Modern Era

• 1945: The city commander surrenders Greifswald to Soviet troops without a fight, ensuring its unique historical architecture remains intact.
• 1990: Following German reunification, a large-scale program begins to reconstruct the historical center and modernize the university.
• 2005: A new, modern university hospital campus opens, strengthening the city's status as a center for medicine and science.

Stages of Development and City Transformation

Greifswald has evolved from a merchant harbor into a modern scientific hub. Several key milestones have fundamentally influenced the city's economy, architectural appearance, and cultural identity:

• Hanseatic Prosperity and Brick Gothic. Joining the Hanseatic League was the most powerful economic driver of the Middle Ages. Revenues from maritime trade allowed the city to develop its unique architectural style — the famous Brick Gothic. It was during this period that the three main city churches (St. Nicholas, St. Mary, and St. James) were built, which still define the city's skyline today.
• A Shift in Focus: From Trade to Science. The founding of the university in 1456 was a crucial strategic change. The city moved away from sole dependence on its port and trade, transforming into the region's intellectual capital. This provided Greifswald with stability even during the decline of the Hanseatic League and defined its "youthful" demographic for centuries to come.
• Swedish Cultural and Administrative Legacy. More than 150 years of Swedish rule (starting in 1648) turned Greifswald into Sweden's administrative and military outpost on the continent. This era was characterized by cultural exchange and specific urban planning decisions that strengthened the region's ties with Scandinavia.
• Industrialization and Expansion Beyond the Walls. In the 19th century, after joining Prussia and the arrival of the railway, the city began to grow outward. The old fortifications were dismantled and replaced by green ramparts, and development stepped beyond the historical core to form the residential blocks of the Gründerzeit era.
• The Phenomenon of Preservation (1945). The decision to surrender the city peacefully during World War II was a pivotal moment for its urban history. Unlike neighboring port cities, Greifswald kept its medieval center almost entirely intact, which today remains its primary tourist asset.
• Comprehensive Renovation After 1990. Following German reunification, a large-scale program was launched to save the historical center, which had fallen into disrepair. The restoration returned the splendor to the ancient gables and turned the market square into one of the most beautiful in northern Germany.
• The High-Tech Era. In the 21st century, the city placed its bet on an innovative economy. The construction of the Wendelstein 7-X experimental fusion reactor and the development of the BioCon Valley biotechnology cluster have placed Greifswald on the world scientific stage, attracting international investment and specialists.

Architectural Landscape and Urban Planning

The architecture of Greifswald serves as a visual encyclopedia of North German history. The city has preserved its classic medieval layout, featuring a central market square and a grid of streets branching out toward the defensive ramparts. The city's appearance is defined by several key eras, each leaving its mark in stone and brick.

Brick Gothic (13th–15th Centuries)

This is the dominant style and the city's architectural hallmark. During the Hanseatic heyday, red brick became a symbol of wealth and power.

• Urban Significance: Creating the city's silhouette (the "City of Three Towers").
• Iconic Landmarks:
  • St. Nicholas Cathedral (Dom St. Nikolai): The city's main symbol with its tall tower, affectionately known as "Long Nicholas." The temple combines the austerity of defensive architecture with the elegance of Gothic vaults.
  • St. Mary's Church (St. Marien): Known as "Fat Mary" due to its massive construction, it is a masterpiece of brick craftsmanship.
  • Eldena Abbey Ruins: Located on the outskirts, these are the remains of a Cistercian abbey that gained worldwide fame through the paintings of Caspar David Friedrich.

Baroque and the Swedish Period (17th–18th Centuries)

During Swedish rule, the city was rebuilt following periods of conflict and fire. Architecture became more secular and ornate, though builders often utilized old Gothic foundations.

• Features: The appearance of gables with volutes, plastered facades, and decorative elements.
• Iconic Landmarks:
  • University Main Building: Built in the mid-18th century, it is a magnificent example of Late Baroque transitioning into Classicism. It is one of the few buildings of that time designed specifically for academic purposes.
  • Residential Houses on Market Square: Many merchant houses (Giebelhäuser) acquired their Baroque facades during this period, concealing their medieval structures behind them.

Classicism and Historicism (19th Century)

With the transition to Prussian rule and population growth, the city expanded beyond its medieval walls. This marked the beginning of the Gründerzeit era.

• Urban Development: The demolition of the fortress walls to create green spaces (Wallanlagen) and the development of the suburbs.
• Iconic Landmarks:
  • Fleischervorstadt: A district built with cohesive blocks of eclectic tenement houses, blending elements of Neo-Renaissance and Neo-Gothic styles.
  • Old University Library: Designed by Martin Gropius, this building is executed in a style reminiscent of the Italian Renaissance but utilizes local brick.

Modernism and Contemporary Architecture (20th–21st Centuries)

Modern Greifswald demonstrates a contrast between a meticulously restored historical center and the functional architecture of scientific clusters.

• Reconstruction: After 1990, a large-scale renovation of the Old Town was carried out, saving it from the decay characteristic of the late GDR period.
• Modern Landmarks:
  • University Hospital and Campus: Contemporary glass-and-concrete complexes that emphasize the city's status as a medical center.
  • Max Planck Institute for Plasma Physics: A futuristic building housing the Wendelstein 7-X stellarator, symbolizing a new era of high technology.

Notable Personalities of Greifswald

The city's history is inextricably linked with the names of people who made significant contributions to global science, art, and literature. Below are the key figures whose lives and work are intertwined with the fate of Greifswald.

Founders and Historical Figures

• Heinrich Rubenow (c. 1400–1462) — Mayor of Greifswald.
  He played a decisive role in the city's development, initiating the foundation of the University of Greifswald in 1456. He invested significant personal funds into creating the institution and became its first rector, an unprecedented act for a city leader at that time.

Science and Medicine

• Friedrich Löffler (1852–1915) — Bacteriologist and hygienist.
  As a professor at the local university, he made breakthrough discoveries by identifying the pathogens for diphtheria and foot-and-mouth disease. He is considered one of the founders of virology. The famous research institute on the island of Riems bears his name.
• Gerhardt Katsch (1887–1961) — Physician and diabetologist.
  He created Germany's first concept for the comprehensive rehabilitation of diabetics, turning Greifswald and nearby Karlsburg into a leading center for the study and treatment of diabetes mellitus.

Art and Literature

• Caspar David Friedrich (1774–1840) — Artist, the most significant representative of Early German Romanticism.
  The city's most famous son. His melancholic landscapes, often depicting the ruins of Eldena Abbey and the Baltic coast, made the surroundings of Greifswald recognizable worldwide.
• Hans Fallada (1893–1947) — Writer (born Rudolf Ditzen).
  Author of the world-famous novels "Little Man, What Now?" and "Every Man Dies Alone." He was born in Greifswald, where a memorial plaque now marks his parents' former home.
• Sibylla Schwarz (1621–1638) — Baroque poet.
  Known as the "Sappho of Pomerania." Despite living only 17 years, Sibylla left a unique poetic legacy describing the lives and emotions of people during the Thirty Years' War.
• Wolfgang Koeppen (1906–1996) — Writer.
  One of the most significant German-language authors of the post-war period. He was born in Greifswald, and although he spent most of his life elsewhere, his literary archive is kept in his hometown.

Sports

• Toni Kroos (born 1990) — Footballer.
  A global football star, 2014 World Cup champion, and multiple-time Champions League winner. He was born in Greifswald and took his first steps in the sport at the local club "Greifswalder SC."