Atami

At the Source of the "Hot Sea"

The history of Atami is rooted in antiquity, and the city's name itself, which literally translates from Japanese as "hot sea," reflects its unique geological nature. According to legend, hot springs used to gush directly from the seabed, heating the bay water so much that it harmed the local marine life.

The first documentary mentions of the settlement and its healing waters are found in historical chronicles from the Nara period (710–794 AD). Legend has it that in the 8th century, a Buddhist monk named Mangan Shonin took pity on the fishermen whose nets were suffering from the boiling water. He offered prayers, after which the spring moved to the land, becoming accessible to the people.

Key Factors of Development

The transformation of a small coastal village into a significant center was driven by a combination of factors:

• Geographic Location: Situated on the edge of a volcanic caldera by Sagami Bay, the region was provided with an inexhaustible supply of thermal waters. Proximity to the historical Tokaido road made Atami a convenient stopover for travelers.
• Political Patronage: The shogun Minamoto no Yoritomo (12th century) played a vital role in the city's history, visiting local shrines and springs to regain strength before battles. Later, during the Edo period, the great unifier of Japan, Tokugawa Ieyasu, grew so fond of the local waters that he ordered them to be delivered in barrels directly to his castle in Edo (present-day Tokyo).

Early Culture and Economy

The economy of early Atami was built not only on fishing but also on the emerging culture of wellness. The city became one of Japan's first examples of a resort focused on balneotherapy (toji).

Thanks to the patronage of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Atami gained status as an elite vacation spot for feudal lords and samurai. The tradition of "Oyu-kumi"—the ceremonial transport of hot water for rulers—contributed to the development of infrastructure and solidified the city's reputation as the region's premier health retreat, located at the gateway to the Izu Peninsula.

Chronology of Atami's Development

• 749: According to legend, the Buddhist monk Mangan Shonin moves a hot spring from the sea to the coast through prayer, providing access to healing waters.
• 1192: The founder of the Kamakura Shogunate, Minamoto no Yoritomo, visits the local springs, establishing a tradition of samurai retreats in the region.
• 1604: Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu spends seven days in Atami, after which he orders regular deliveries of local thermal water to his castle in Edo.
• 1889: The town of Atami is officially established during the Meiji administrative reforms.
• 1895: Opening of a unique hand-pushed railway (human-powered tramway) connecting the resort with the neighboring city of Odawara.
• 1925: Completion of Atami Railway Station, providing reliable transport links to Tokyo.
• 1934: Opening of the Tanna Tunnel, allowing the city to be included in the main Tokaido Line.
• 1937: Atami officially receives city status (shi) after merging with the neighboring village of Taga.
• 1950: The Japanese government designates Atami as an "International City of Culture and Tourism."
• 1959: Completion of Atami Castle—a tourist complex stylized as a feudal fortress.
• 1964: Launch of the Tokaido Shinkansen high-speed line with a stop in Atami, triggering an unprecedented tourism boom.
• 1982: Opening of the MOA Museum of Art, which became one of the region's key cultural attractions.
• 2010s: Launch of an active rebranding campaign to position the city as a trendy retro resort, attracting a new generation of travelers.

Atami's Transformation Milestones

The development of Atami is the story of a secluded health retreat for the elite transforming into one of Japan's most famous mass-market resorts, having survived highs, lows, and a recent revival.

• Opening of the Tanna Tunnel and the Railway Revolution (1934)

  The completion of the Tanna Tunnel was a turning point in urban planning. Atami's inclusion in the main Tokaido Line connected the city directly to Tokyo and Osaka. This event turned a hard-to-reach mountain resort into a popular destination, marking the first stage of large-scale hotel construction.

• Designation as an "International City of Culture and Tourism" (1950)

  After the war, the Japanese government passed a special law that determined Atami's fate. This status ensured state support and an influx of infrastructure investment. The city began to develop not just as a spa resort but as a showcase of Japanese hospitality, contributing to the region's rapid economic recovery.

• The Shinkansen Era and the High-Rise Boom (1964)

  The launch of high-speed trains for the Tokyo Olympics reduced travel time to the capital to just 50 minutes. In the 1960s and 70s, Atami became the top destination for honeymoons and corporate retreats. Economic prosperity was reflected in architecture: the coastline was built up with massive concrete hotels, creating a unique high-rise landscape on the mountain slopes reminiscent of Mediterranean resorts.

• Opening of the MOA Museum of Art (1982)

  The arrival of a world-class museum on a hilltop marked the city's cultural transformation. Atami was no longer perceived solely as a place for bathing and entertainment, gaining a major attraction for art and architecture enthusiasts. This expanded the tourist demographic and raised the resort's prestige.

• Economic Crisis and Shift in Tourism Model (1990s – 2000s)

  The collapse of the Japanese "bubble economy" led to the closure of many corporate retreat centers and large hotels. The city faced the need to reorient itself: instead of serving massive tour groups, the focus shifted to individual travelers. This challenging period forced businesses to modernize old ryokans and improve service quality.

• Renovation and the "Retro Boom" (2010s – Present)

  The latest development milestone is linked to successful rebranding. The renovation of the station square and the opening of the Lusca Atami complex, along with marketing campaigns highlighting the nostalgic charm of the Showa era, have brought younger crowds back to the city. Today, Atami is experiencing an economic renaissance, blending historical heritage with modern small-business trends.

Architectural Landscape and Urban Planning

The urban structure of Atami is dictated by its complex topography. The city is often called the "Japanese Naples" or the "Monaco of the East" due to its dense development cascading down the steep slopes of a volcanic caldera toward Sagami Bay. This has created a unique vertical landscape where buildings overlook one another, providing panoramic ocean views from almost any point.

Architectural Eras and Styles

Atami's appearance is a tapestry of traditional Japanese architecture, Western influences from the early 20th century, and the monumental concrete modernism of the "Economic Miracle" era.

• Meiji and Taisho Eras (late 19th — early 20th c.): Traditional Style and Eclecticism

  During this period, Atami developed as an elite summer resort. The architecture is represented by the villas of wealthy industrialists and writers. The dominant style was sukiya-zukuri (a refined architectural style derived from tea houses), often combined with Western elements like fireplace halls and stained glass, which was characteristic of Japan's Westernization period.

• Showa Era (1950s–1980s): Resort Modernism and Brutalism

  A period of rapid economic growth and the launch of the Shinkansen radically changed the city's skyline. Massive multi-story hotels made of reinforced concrete replaced wooden ryokans. The style is characterized by functionalism, scale, and the use of simple geometric shapes. These giant buildings, anchored to the hillsides, became the resort's hallmark.

• The "Bubble Economy" Period (late 20th c.): Postmodernism and Historicism

  This time of excess was reflected in the construction of entertainment facilities that imitated antiquity but were made of modern materials like concrete and steel. A prime example is the creation of pseudo-historical castles and luxurious museums.

• Modern Day (21st c.): Minimalism and Renovation

  The current stage is marked by works of world-renowned architects aiming to integrate buildings into the natural landscape using wood, glass, and light. There is also a popular trend of renovating old Showa-era buildings into modern cafes and guest houses.

Iconic Buildings and Districts

Atami's architectural portrait is formed by several key sites reflecting different milestones of its development:

• Kiunkaku: A former villa built in 1919 that later became a ryokan. It is a masterpiece of eclecticism, where traditional Japanese pavilions sit alongside a Tudor-style building and Roman baths decorated in Art Deco.
• Atami Castle: Built in 1959 at the top of a mountain as a tourist attraction. Despite looking like a feudal fortress from the Momoyama period, it is a reinforced concrete structure that serves as a symbol of the tourism boom in post-war Japan.
• MOA Museum of Art: A monumental structure built into a hilltop. Following a renovation led by architect Hiroshi Sugimoto, the museum's interiors have become a benchmark of modern Japanese minimalism, utilizing black plaster and thousand-year-old cedar.
• Coeda House: A work by the famous Kengo Kuma located in the Akao Herb & Rose Garden. This light structure made of wooden beams resembles a tree and demonstrates a modern approach to eco-friendly architecture.

Notable Figures Associated with Atami

The history of Atami is inextricably linked with the names of great rulers, writers, and artists who found inspiration or healing here. Their influence shaped the city's cultural and historical identity.

• Minamoto no Yoritomo (1147–1199)
  Role: Founder of the Kamakura Shogunate, military commander.

  According to historical chronicles, the great commander frequently visited the Izu-san hot springs in Atami to recover his strength before military campaigns. His visits established a centuries-long tradition of the samurai elite vacationing in the region.

• Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543–1616)
  Role: The first shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, unifier of Japan.

  He made Atami an official health resort for the shogunate. He loved the local water so much that he ordered it to be delivered in barrels to his castle in Edo (Tokyo), which spurred the development of the city's transport infrastructure.

• Ozaki Koyo (1868–1903)
  Role: Writer, a classic of Japanese literature.

  Author of the famous novel "The Golden Demon" (Konjiki Yasha). A key scene of the work takes place on the Atami coast. The book's popularity turned the city into a nationwide tourist brand; a monument to the novel's protagonists now stands on the promenade.

• Tsubouchi Shoyo (1859–1935)
  Role: Playwright, critic, and the first person to translate the complete works of Shakespeare into Japanese.

  He spent the final years of his life in Atami, building the "Soshisha" estate. His presence attracted the intelligentsia to the city, transforming the resort into a cultural hub. His former home now serves as a memorial museum.

• Bruno Taut (1880–1938)
  Role: German architect and urban planner.

  Lived in Atami in the 1930s. He designed the interiors of the Hyuga Villa (Kyū Hyūga Bettei), which is the only surviving example of his work in Japan and is recognized as an Important Cultural Property, blending Western modernism with Japanese aesthetics.

• Okada Mokichi (1882–1955)
  Role: Philosopher, patron of the arts, and art collector.

  Founder of the MOA Museum of Art. His vision of transforming Atami into a city of art and beauty led to the creation of one of Japan's most significant private museums, housing several National Treasures.