Kusatsu

Legends and Historical Roots

The exact founding date of Kusatsu is lost in time, as the history of the settlement is inextricably linked to the discovery of its healing hot springs. There are several versions of the resort's origins:

• Mythological Version: Legends attribute the discovery of the springs to the mythical hero Yamato Takeru as far back as the 2nd century.
• Religious Version: Other traditions say the springs were discovered by the famous traveling monk Gyoki in the 8th century, or by Kukai, the founder of the Shingon school.
• Historical Facts: Reliable written mentions of Kusatsu as a significant site appear during the Muromachi period (14th–16th centuries), when the fame of its medicinal waters began to spread across Japan.

Factors of Growth and Development

The transformation of a small mountain village into one of the country's most famous resorts was driven by a unique combination of natural and social factors:

• Geography and Geology: Located at the foot of the active volcano Kusatsu-Shirane, the area produces a record volume of highly acidic thermal water, which became the region's primary natural resource.
• Political Patronage: During the Edo period, Kusatsu's popularity peaked thanks to the attention of the shogunate. It is well-documented that water from the local springs was delivered in special barrels to Edo (modern-day Tokyo) for Shogun Tokugawa Yoshimune.
• Accessibility for All Classes: Despite its remote mountain location, Kusatsu attracted both samurai seeking to heal their wounds and common pilgrims, which spurred the development of infrastructure.

Early Culture and Economy

The economy of early Kusatsu was built entirely around the "toji" culture (hot spring medicinal bathing) and the harvesting of "yunohana" (sulfur deposits). The specific nature of the hot springs gave rise to unique traditions:

• The Yumomi Tradition: Since the water temperature at the sources is extremely high (ranging from 50°C to 90°C), locals developed a method to cool the water without diluting it. Using long wooden boards, they rhythmically churned the water to the beat of folk songs, which became both a technical necessity and a vibrant cultural performance.
• Town Planning: The heart of the settlement became the Yubatake ("hot water field")—a system of wooden chutes for collecting mineral deposits, around which traditional ryokans (inns) were built.

Ancient Times and the Edo Period

• 2nd Century (According to Legend): Tradition holds that the mythical hero Yamato Takeru discovered the hot springs during his journeys, marking the legendary beginning of the resort.
• 1200: The traditional founding year of the Kosen-ji Buddhist temple, which still overlooks the town's main square today.
• 1582: Chronicles record the arrival of samurai from the Sanada clan to treat their wounds in the waters, confirming Kusatsu's status as a healing resort during the Sengoku period.
• 1729: By special decree of Shogun Tokugawa Yoshimune, barrels of water from the Yubatake spring were ceremonially delivered to Edo Castle.
• 1817: In the official "Onsen Banzuke" (hot spring rankings) of Japan, Kusatsu was awarded the top title of "East Ozeki," solidifying its status as the region's premier resort.

Opening to the World and Modernization

• 1869: A major fire destroyed a significant portion of the town's wooden buildings, leading to a large-scale reconstruction of the infrastructure.
• 1878: German physician Erwin Bälz visited Kusatsu for the first time and began a scientific study of the water's properties, bringing the resort international fame.
• 1900: Administrative reform officially established the status of Kusatsu Town within Agatsuma District.
• 1913: The founding of the Kusatsu Ski Club, which served as the starting point for the development of winter tourism and skiing in the region.
• 1926: Construction of the Kusatsu Electric Railway was completed, significantly easing the journey for travelers from Tokyo.

Modern History

• 1970: The opening of National Route 292, a scenic road that improved road access through the mountain passes.
• 1975: Launch of the "Shiga-Kusatsu" tourist route, connecting the resort with neighboring Nagano Prefecture through the highlands.
• 2015: A comprehensive reconstruction of the area around the Yubatake spring was completed, including updated pedestrian paths and the installation of a modern lighting system.
• 2021: The "Ura-Kusatsu" (Back Kusatsu) area opened, featuring a new observation deck and a hand-washing spring area designed to ease congestion in the main tourist center.

Key Milestones of Development and Transformation

Kusatsu's evolution from a remote mountain settlement into a modern tourist hub was built upon several fundamental stages. These events fundamentally changed the resort's economy, culture, and urban landscape:

• Economic Rise of the Edo Period: The official recognition of the water's healing properties by the Tokugawa shogunate transformed Kusatsu from a place of pilgrimage into an elite resort. This stimulated the hospitality sector and the creation of the first large-scale ryokans, laying the foundation for the town's service-based economic model.
• Introduction of Scientific Medicine (Late 19th Century): The arrival of Dr. Erwin Bälz marked a turning point in the cultural perception of the resort. Thanks to his research, treatments in Kusatsu moved from the realm of folk medicine to evidence-based balneology, attracting a new category of visitors and investment in medical infrastructure.
• Establishment as a Winter Sports Hub (Early 20th Century): The opening of the first ski club and the subsequent development of the slopes on Mount Kusatsu-Shirane diversified the economy. The town ceased to rely solely on hot spring enthusiasts and became a year-round resort, attracting young people and sports tourists.
• Transport Revolution (Mid-20th Century): The construction of high-quality roads and the establishment of bus connections to railway stations ended the region's isolation. This led to a boom in mass tourism, requiring the expansion of hotel capacity and the modernization of the urban environment.
• Urban Renovation of "Yubatake" (21st Century): A large-scale reconstruction of the square around the main spring in recent years has changed the town's nighttime appearance. The introduction of artistic lighting and pedestrian zones turned a technical facility (a water reservoir) into the main visual landmark and a centerpiece for evening strolls, significantly increasing the center's tourist appeal.

Urban Structure and Development

The architectural character of Kusatsu is unique because it was formed not around a castle or a marketplace, as most Japanese cities were, but around a natural phenomenon. The urban layout follows a concentric system centered on Yubatake—a massive "hot water field" of thermal springs.

The town's development was dictated by the rugged terrain and the necessity of distributing thermal water:

• Historical Core: Dense construction surrounding the source. Narrow, winding streets designed for pedestrians in kimonos and geta (wooden sandals) rather than for modern vehicles.
• Vertical Zoning: Due to its location in a mountain valley, buildings often feature a terraced structure, climbing up the hillsides.
• Environmental Influence: The high acidity of the air and water, saturated with sulfur, historically limited the use of metal in construction. Wood and stone dominated, giving the town an organic, natural aesthetic.

Architectural Styles and Eras

Kusatsu blends traditional Japanese architecture with styles from Japan's modernization eras. The town actively maintains a unified design code to preserve the atmosphere of an old-world resort.

Traditional Japanese Style (Edo and Meiji Periods)

The foundation of Kusatsu's visual identity lies in its classic ryokans (traditional inns). This style is characterized by:

• Wooden facades with intricate lattice elements.
• Tiled roofs with wide eaves to protect against heavy mountain snowfalls.
• The use of natural materials like cedar and cypress, which are resistant to humidity.

Taisho Roman (Early 20th Century Retro-Modernism)

Modern Kusatsu architecture clearly reflects the Taisho Roman style. This nostalgic movement combines Japanese aesthetics with elements of Western Romanticism from the 1910s and 1920s. It is frequently used in the reconstruction of public buildings to give them historical charm, even if the structure itself is new.

Iconic Landmarks and Structures

The townscape is defined by several key landmarks, each reflecting a specific stage in the resort's evolution:

• The Yubatake System: The town's primary architectural and engineering monument. It is not just a spring, but a complex structure of seven wooden chutes used to cool the water and harvest "yunohana" (sulfur flowers). A recent renovation added stone paving and artistic lighting, transforming this technical zone into an art installation.
• Netsunoyu Building: The hall where "Yumomi" performances take place. Rebuilt entirely in 2015 in the Taisho retro-modern style, it stands out with its octagonal tower and a combination of white plaster and dark wood, referencing the architecture of a century ago.
• Kosen-ji Temple: A Buddhist temple situated on an elevation directly overlooking the Yubatake source. Its massive roof and long stone staircase provide a classic backdrop for photographs, recalling the resort’s spiritual roots dating back to the Middle Ages.
• Goza-no-yu Public Bath: A building reconstructed in 2013 in a style characteristic of the Edo and Meiji eras. This majestic wooden structure with a high roof demonstrates what the town's main bathhouses looked like during the height of samurai culture.

Legendary Founders and Rulers

• Yamato Takeru — Legendary Prince and Hero of Japanese Mythology
  Regarded as the mythological discoverer of the resort. According to 2nd-century legends, the hero found the hot springs during his expeditions through the eastern lands, marking the beginning of the settlement's history.
• Gyoki — Buddhist Monk and Enlightener of the Nara Period
  A prominent 8th-century religious figure credited with founding Kosen-ji Temple. It is believed he was the first to systematically use the local waters to treat the sick, laying the groundwork for the resort's culture.
• Minamoto no Yoritomo — The First Shogun of the Kamakura Period
  A famous leader who visited these parts in 1193. Legend has it that he bathed in a spring later named "Shirahata-no-yu" (Bath of the White Flags) in honor of his clan's heraldry. His visit popularized the resort among the samurai class.
• Tokugawa Yoshimune — The Eighth Shogun of the Tokugawa Dynasty
  The ruler who raised Kusatsu's prestige to a national level in the 18th century. By his special decree, water from the Yubatake spring was transported in barrels directly to Edo Castle, a testament to the supreme quality of the local waters.

Figures of Science and Culture

• Kobayashi Issa — Renowned Haiku Poet
  One of Japan's greatest poets, he visited Kusatsu several times in the early 19th century. In his poems, he described the daily life of the resort town, the mists from the hot springs, and the customs of the locals with humor and warmth.
• Erwin Bälz — German Physician and a Founder of Western Medicine in Japan
  During the Meiji era (late 19th century), Dr. Bälz conducted a scientific analysis of the water's composition and proved its high efficacy. He became the primary promoter of Kusatsu on the international stage, comparing it to top European resorts like Karlovy Vary.
• Taro Okamoto — 20th-Century Avant-Garde Artist and Sculptor
  The creator of the famous "Tower of the Sun" made an invaluable contribution to the town's modern look. In 1975, he led the design project for the area surrounding the Yubatake symbol, transforming a technical structure into a unique landscape park with a promenade.