Okinoerabu history

Foundation and First Mentions

The history of the settlement of Okinoerabu is rooted in the prehistoric era; however, the island begins to appear in chronicles as a significant administrative and cultural unit during the Middle Ages. Unlike mainland cities, development here progressed through the unification of scattered communities:

• Gusuku Period: The active formation of local communities began in the 11th–12th centuries. During this time, the island was ruled by local chieftains called "Aji," who built fortified residences.
• Integration into Ryukyu: The first documented mentions are often associated with the expansion of the Ryukyu Kingdom's influence. In the 14th century, the island became part of the northern Hokuzan principality, which marked the starting point of its political establishment.

Key Factors of Formation

The formation of settlements and the way of life on Okinoerabu were dictated by its unique geology and location within the Amami archipelago:

• Geography and Geology: The island is an uplifted coral atoll. The presence of fertile soils (terra rossa), rich in minerals, allowed for the development of agriculture despite the scarcity of rivers and the necessity to use underground water from karst caves.
• Strategic Location: Situated between the main islands of Japan and Okinawa, Okinoerabu served as a vital link in maritime trade and cultural exchange, acting as a transit point for vessels.
• Political Influence: The transfer of control from the Ryukyu Kingdom to the Japanese Satsuma Domain in the early 17th century (1609) definitively cemented the island's role as an important agrarian centre specialising in sugar production.

Early Cultural and Economic Features

The economy and culture of the early period developed under conditions of isolation and close interaction with nature:

• Agrarian Economy: Unlike many neighbouring islands where fishing dominated, the residents of Okinoerabu historically focused on agriculture, cultivating root crops and sugar cane.
• Stone Architecture: The abundance of coral limestone facilitated the development of unique building skills. Locals erected sturdy stone walls for protection against typhoons.
• Spiritual Culture: Early beliefs were closely tied to the reverence of nature and ancestors (animism), whilst cultural traditions, including music and dance, were formed under the strong influence of Ryukyu aesthetics.

Development Timeline of Okinoerabu

• 14th Century: The island enters the sphere of influence of the northern Hokuzan principality, beginning its integration into the Ryukyu political system.
• 1429: Following the unification of the Ryukyu Kingdom, Okinoerabu becomes part of its centralised administrative structure.
• 1609: The island comes under the direct control of the Japanese Satsuma Domain (Shimazu clan), whilst retaining many cultural traits of Ryukyu.
• 1862: The famous samurai and reformer Saigo Takamori is exiled to the island, where he spends a year and a half and founds a school for local youth.
• 1871: During the Meiji Restoration and the abolition of the domain system, Okinoerabu is officially included in Kagoshima Prefecture.
• 1898: The island suffers from a devastating typhoon, which subsequently leads to changes in architectural traditions and the strengthening of structures.
• 1908: A modern system of municipalities is introduced, resulting in the official formation of the villages of Wadomari and China on the island.
• 1946: After the end of World War II, the Amami archipelago, including Okinoerabu, passes under the administrative management of the USA.
• 1953: The ceremonial return of the Amami islands to Japanese sovereignty takes place, marking a turning point in the region's modern history.
• 1969: The opening of Okinoerabu Airport ensures regular air services, significantly simplifying connections with the "mainland".
• 2017: The territory of the island becomes part of the newly created Amami Gunto National Park, receiving environmental protection status.

Major Milestones in the Development of Okinoerabu

The island's development proceeded through adaptation to harsh natural conditions and a shift in economic models—from feudal dependence to modern ecotourism. The key stages that defined the appearance of Okinoerabu include:

• Introduction of Sugar Cane Culture (from the 17th Century)
  After the Satsuma Domain established control, the island's economy was completely reoriented towards cane cultivation. This turned Okinoerabu into an important raw material base and defined the agrarian landscape and the population's lifestyle for centuries.
• Intellectual Rise during the Time of Saigo Takamori (1862–1864)
  The exile of the famous samurai became a catalyst for cultural changes. Saigo Takamori taught local youth literacy and Confucian ethics, laying the foundations for the formation of an educated layer of society and a unique "spirit of cooperation" that is still valued here today.
• Flourishing of Floriculture and the "Erabu Lily" (Late 19th Century)
  Significant economic diversification occurred with the start of commercial lily cultivation. The island became known as a major exporter of bulbs to Europe and the USA, which brought in foreign currency revenue and reduced dependence on sugar production.
• Administrative Division and Urbanisation (1908)
  The introduction of the municipality system divided the island into two administrative centres—Wadomari and China. This event formalised the modern structure of settlements and marked the beginning of organised urban planning and local infrastructure development.
• Infrastructure Restoration after Return to Japan (1953)
  The end of the American administration period opened access to state subsidies. Active modernisation began: electrification, the construction of concrete roads, and the reinforcement of the coastline, which radically improved the quality of life for the islanders.
• Transport Revolution (1969)
  The opening of Okinoerabu Airport broke centuries of isolation. The advent of regular air travel not only accelerated the delivery of agricultural products but also opened the island to mass tourism, connecting it with Kagoshima and Okinawa.
• Designation of National Park Status (2017)
  Inclusion in the Amami Gunto Park marked a transition to the concept of sustainable development. The focus shifted to preserving unique karst caves and coral reefs, turning ecology into the region's main tourism asset.

Architectural Appearance and Urban Planning

The architectural environment of Okinoerabu is a unique fusion of Ryukyu Kingdom traditions, Japanese pragmatism, and the harsh necessity of withstanding the elements. Unlike mainland cities, styles here are defined not by European canons (Baroque or Classicism) but by functionality and the availability of materials. The main feature of historical development is the widespread use of coral limestone.

Gusuku Era (Middle Ages — 17th Century)

This period is characterised by the construction of fortified residences for local rulers. The architecture was defensive in nature and laid the foundations for stone masonry that are still used today.

• Style: Ryukyu fortification architecture.
• Characteristic Features: Massive curvilinear walls made of hewn coral stone, assembled using the dry masonry method (without mortar). Such a structure excellently dampens vibrations and withstands hurricane-force winds.
• Landmark Object: Yononushi Gusuku Ruins. This is a historical monument where fragments of ancient stone walls have been preserved, demonstrating the skill of medieval stonemasons.

Traditional Residential Development (17th — Mid-20th Century)

During this period, the recognisable rural landscape of the island was formed. Residential quarters were designed taking frequent typhoons into account.

• Style: Vernacular (folk) architecture of the Amami islands.
• Characteristic Features:
  • Ishigaki: High stone walls made of coral limestone surrounding houses. They protect dwellings from sea wind and salt.
  • Wooden Frames: Traditional houses were built from durable wood species (often Itaji), raised above the ground for ventilation in high humidity conditions.
  • Red Tiles: The influence of Okinawa was evident in the use of red clay tiles, although thatched roofs persisted in poorer areas for a long time.
• Landmark Object: Saigo Takamori Residence. A modest wooden structure, recreated in the traditional style, where the famous samurai lived during his exile. It demonstrates the ascetic lifestyle of that era.

Modern Period (from the 1950s)

After the return of the islands to Japan and a series of destructive typhoons, urban planning reoriented towards safety and durability. Wood gave way to reinforced concrete.

• Style: Utilitarian modernism and "typhoon-resistant" constructivism.
• Characteristic Features: Flat concrete roofs, simple geometric forms, and reinforced structures. Public buildings (schools, administration offices) are built as shelters in case of natural disasters.
• Urban Planning: The modern settlements of Wadomari and China have retained their historical layout with narrow winding streets that dampen wind gusts, but they are now lined with modern low-rise concrete houses, often painted in light colours.

Historical and Legendary Figures

• Yononushi
  Ruler of the Island (15th Century)
  A legendary feudal lord (Aji) who ruled the island during the heyday of the Ryukyu Kingdom. He built Yononushi Castle, the ruins of which are today the island's main historical attraction. A tragic legend is associated with his name regarding the suicide of his entire family to avoid captivity, making him a symbol of honour and loyalty in local folklore.
• Saigo Takamori
  Samurai, Politician, and Philosopher (1828–1877)
  One of Japan's most revered heroes, the "Last Samurai", spent a year and a half in exile on Okinoerabu (1862–1864). Despite the harsh conditions of his confinement, he had a colossal influence on the local residents, teaching them literacy and Confucian ethics. It was here that his philosophy "Revere Heaven, Love People", which became his motto, was definitively formed.
• Tsuchimochi Masateru
  Official and Educator (19th Century)
  A local administrator who, risking his career, improved the living conditions of the exiled Saigo Takamori by building a house for him. Becoming a student and friend of the samurai, Masateru subsequently played a key role in spreading education on the island and preserving his teacher's legacy.

Cultural and Economic Figures

• Isaac Bunting
  British Entrepreneur and Botanist (Late 19th Century)
  An English plant merchant who visited the island in 1899. He appreciated the potential of the wild local lily and established its export to Europe and the USA. Thanks to his initiative, the cultivation of the "Erabu Lily" became the foundation of the island's economy for many decades, saving farmers from poverty.
• Okiyama Chobi
  Musician, Performer of Folk Songs (1900s)
  An outstanding master of the "Shima-uta" (island songs) genre. He is called the "god of folklore" of Okinoerabu for his unique voice and contribution to the preservation of musical traditions. Thanks to him, many ancient melodies and lyrics reflecting the daily life and history of the islanders were recorded and have survived to this day.