Puerto Escondido history

Unlike many colonial cities in Mexico, Puerto Escondido was not a major centre during the pre-Hispanic period. This territory was inhabited by indigenous peoples, but for a long time, no permanent settlement existed here, primarily due to the lack of reliable sources of fresh water. The city's name, which translates as "Hidden Port", is steeped in a famous 16th-century legend. It is believed to be connected to the pirate Andrew Drake and a young woman from a local tribe whom he kidnapped; she managed to escape and take refuge in the bay's dense forests. The pirates, who searched unsuccessfully for the fugitive, began referring to this place as "La Escondida" (The Hidden One), which over time transformed into the modern name.

The development of Puerto Escondido from a wild bay into a populated settlement was dictated by specific geography and trade:

• Coffee Exports: In the early 20th century, the city began to play an important role as a port for exporting coffee. Rich harvests from plantations in the mountains of Oaxaca were brought down to the coast for shipment by sea, as there were practically no land roads.
• Natural Harbour: The deep and protected bay allowed merchant ships to approach the shore safely, making this place a key logistical hub for the region.
• Administrative Division: Historically and politically, the city's territory is divided between two municipalities — San Pedro Mixtepec and Santa María Colotepec, which influenced governance and development patterns.

Before the tourism boom, the economy of Puerto Escondido was based exclusively on fishing and servicing cargo ships. It was a quiet village where life flowed steadily, governed by coffee harvest seasons and sea tides. The local culture formed in isolation from major centres, preserving the authenticity of the fishing lifestyle. Radical changes began only in the second half of the 20th century with the arrival of water supply infrastructure and the construction of the highway. Soon after, the unique waves of Zicatela beach attracted the first surfers, forever changing the city's economic vector.

Key Development Milestones

• 16th Century — According to local legend, the pirate Andrew Drake landed in the bay, and a captive who escaped from him gave the place the name "The Hidden One" (La Escondida).
• Early 20th Century — The bay begins to be used as a key port for the maritime export of coffee grown in the mountains of Oaxaca.
• 1930s — The arrangement of the first wells with potable water allows for the creation of a permanent settlement, which was previously impossible due to a lack of resources.
• 1960s — The construction of Federal Highway 200 connects the isolated village with Acapulco and other regions of the country.
• 1970 — The Mexican government, through the FONATUR fund, includes the coast of Oaxaca in a priority tourism development plan.
• 1979 — Opening of the first small airport, ensuring regular air service with the city of Oaxaca.
• 1985 — Commissioning of a modern international airport, opening the resort to foreign tourists.
• Late 1980s — Zicatela beach gains world fame among surfers, who call the local waves the "Mexican Pipeline".
• 2009 — Puerto Escondido officially receives city status due to population growth and economic importance.
• 2024 — Opening of the new Barranca-Larga — Ventanilla expressway, reducing travel time from the state capital to the coast from 6 to 2.5 hours.

Key Stages of Transformation

The development of Puerto Escondido can be divided into several significant phases, each of which radically changed the appearance and economy of this place:

• Formation of a Trading Port (Early 20th Century). The first powerful economic driver was coffee exports. Using the bay to ship harvests turned the wild coast into an important logistical hub for the state, laying the foundation for a permanent population employed in trade and ship servicing.
• Infrastructure Breakthrough (1960–1970s). The construction of Federal Highway No. 200 and the appearance of a centralised water supply system were a turning point. The city emerged from isolation, gaining a reliable link with Acapulco and Salina Cruz, which made the development of land-based tourism possible.
• Birth of the Surf Capital (1970–1980s). The discovery of the unique waves of Zicatela beach by the international surfing community changed the city's cultural code. From a quiet fishing village, Puerto Escondido turned into a cult destination for youth from around the world, stimulating the spontaneous growth of small businesses: hostels, bungalows, and beach lounges.
• Aviation Accessibility (1985). The opening of the international airport brought the resort to the global market. This event allowed for direct flights from major cities and abroad, attracting a more affluent audience and foreign investment in real estate.
• Urbanisation and Change of Status (2009). The official assignment of the status of city (Ciudad) recorded demographic growth and the transition from a village lifestyle to an urban environment. This required the modernisation of municipal services and a review of urban planning in conditions of complex terrain.
• New Transport Era (2024). The launch of the long-awaited expressway to the state capital became the most important event of recent decades. This transformation integrated the coast into a single tourism system with the city of Oaxaca, radically changing logistics and increasing the flow of domestic tourists.

Architectural Appearance and Urban Planning

Unlike the state capital, Oaxaca, Puerto Escondido does not possess a colonial heritage with Baroque churches or Renaissance-style squares. It is a relatively young city, whose architecture was formed under the influence of the tropical climate, the functional needs of the port, and the rapid development of surf tourism. The urban fabric of the city is eclectic and clearly zoned by geographical relief.

Evolution of Styles and Eras

The architectural development of Puerto Escondido can be divided into three key stages, each of which has left its mark on the resort's appearance:

• Traditional Coastal Architecture (Vernacular):

  The original style of the region, dominant until the mid-20th century and experiencing a renaissance today in the luxury segment. The main element is the palapa, a structure with open walls and a high roof made of dried palm leaves. This design ensures natural ventilation, which is necessary in a hot climate. Authentic fishing huts have practically disappeared, but the style has transformed into the aesthetic of beach clubs and bungalows.

• Mexican Functionalism (1970–1990s):

  With the arrival of the highway and airport, the construction of permanent buildings made of concrete and brick began. These are simple, utilitarian forms characteristic of the city centre (El Centro). Buildings are usually low-rise (2–3 floors) due to the region's seismic activity, often painted in bright colours. A vivid example of this era is the El Adoquín pedestrian zone, the city's first tourist street.

• Tropical Modernism and Eco-Brutalism (21st Century):

  The modern stage, which has made the Oaxaca coast a mecca for architects and designers. The style is characterised by the use of raw concrete, precious woods (such as Parota), and large-scale glazing. Buildings intentionally blend into the landscape, often hiding within the jungle. This style was influenced by the renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando (who designed the Casa Wabi cultural centre nearby), setting a trend for minimalism and harmony with nature.

Iconic Districts and Urban Structure

Due to the complex terrain, the city does not have a unified street grid and is divided into several distinct districts with different atmospheres and architecture:

• El Centro: The administrative and commercial heart of the city, located on a hill. Dense concrete development, chaotic street planning, and functional architecture of the late 20th century prevail here.
• Zicatela: A strip of hotels and restaurants stretches along the famous beach. Styles here range from simple surf camps to modern boutique hotels with rooftop pools.
• La Punta: A district in the southern part of the city, known for its bohemian atmosphere. A feature of urban planning here is the absence of paved roads (a conscious choice to preserve the atmosphere) and the prevalence of eco-architecture: wood, bamboo, and thatched roofs combined with modern design.
• Rinconada: A quiet residential area on a cliff, built up with private villas and guest houses in Mediterranean and Mexican styles.

Notable Figures of Puerto Escondido

The history and modern appearance of Puerto Escondido are inextricably linked with the people who created its legends, conquered its waves, and turned the coast into a cultural centre. The list of significant persons unites mythical heroes, world-class athletes, and artists.

Legends and Historical Figures

• "La Escondida" (The Hidden One)
  Role: Heroine of local legend, indigenous inhabitant (Mixtec)
  The young woman whose story gave the city its name. According to 16th-century lore, she was kidnapped by pirates but managed to escape and hide in the dense forests of the bay. The pirates, returning to search, called her "La Escondida". Although history has not preserved her real name, she remains the main symbol of the city.
• Francis Drake (or his brother Andrew Drake)
  Role: English privateer and navigator
  Although historical data on the exact landing varies, local folklore attributes the discovery of the bay for Europeans specifically to Drake's crew, as well as participation in the events that spawned the legend of "The Hidden One". His figure symbolises the era when the bay was a wild refuge for seafarers.

Modern Cultural and Sports Figures

• Carlos "Coco" Nogales
  Role: Professional surfer, big-wave rider
  A local living legend and one of Mexico's most famous surfers. Coco Nogales brought worldwide fame to Zicatela beach by conquering giant waves, which are referred to here as the "Mexican Pipeline". His success attracted the attention of global brands and contributed to transforming the city into a surfing capital.
• Alejandra Robles
  Role: Singer and dancer
  A native of Puerto Escondido, known as "La Morena". In her work, she combines traditional Mexican rhythms with Afro-Caribbean motifs, popularising the unique culture of Afro-Mexicans of the Oaxaca coast and Costa Chica on the international stage.
• Bosco Sodi
  Role: Contemporary artist and patron of the arts
  Founder of the Casa Wabi cultural centre, located in the vicinity of the city. His initiative to invite Japanese architect Tadao Ando to build an art residency radically changed the status of the region, turning it from a purely surfing resort into a point of attraction for the global creative elite and architects.
• Gina Machorro
  Role: Tourism promoter and the "Face of the City"
  For decades, Gina has managed the information kiosk on the main pedestrian street, El Adoquín. She has become the unofficial ambassador of Puerto Escondido, helping thousands of tourists and preserving the history of the transformation from a fishing village into a popular resort.