Hengshan

Hengshan is a rural township in Hsinchu County, whose history is inextricably linked to the settlement of Taiwan's inland territories and interactions with indigenous peoples.

Founding and Early Mentions

The territory of modern-day Hengshan was originally inhabited by the indigenous Atayal people. Active settlement of the region by Chinese immigrants (primarily the Hakka people) began during the Qing Dynasty, as settlers moved inland from the coast. The name of the settlement, which translates as "Horizontal Mountain," arose due to the distinctive appearance of the local mountain range: from the plains, it looks like a massive flat barrier.

Key Factors of Development

The development of Hengshan was determined by several important circumstances:

• Geographical Location: The town is situated in the valley of the Youluo River, which provided water for agricultural land and served as a natural transport corridor.
• Natural Resources: An abundance of forests facilitated the production of camphor and timber, while the fertile soil of the foothills was ideal for growing tea and fruit.
• Transport Accessibility: Later, a major boost to growth was the construction of the Neiwan Railway Line, which connected the mountain areas with major cities for the extraction of resources (timber and minerals).

Early Cultural and Economic Features

The economy of early Hengshan was based on agriculture. During the Qing era and the Japanese colonial period, the region was famous for tea production and the mining of coal and limestone. The area gained particular fame for Hengshan pears, the cultivation of which became a hallmark of the agricultural sector. The cultural face of the town was shaped by Hakka traditions: this is reflected in the architecture of old houses, the dialect, and the gastronomic habits that are still preserved by local residents today.

Key Milestones of Development

• Late 18th Century — Early 19th Century: Hakka settlers begin to actively develop the fertile lands in the Youluo River valley, founding the first permanent settlements.
• 1920: During the administrative reform of the Japanese colonial era, the name Hengshan was officially approved, and the settlement's boundaries were defined.
• 1946: Following administrative reorganization, Hengshan was granted the status of a rural township within Hsinchu County.
• 1951: The Neiwan Railway Line was fully opened to traffic, connecting the mountain district with major cities and the coast.
• 1950s — 1960s: A period of prosperity for the mining and logging industries, turning the district into an important industrial hub.
• 1970s: Development of the cement industry, which provided jobs and economic stability for the region.
• 1980s: Due to the depletion of natural resources and the closure of mines, the economy began to pivot toward agriculture.
• 1990s: Successful introduction of technologies for growing high-quality pears, which became a new symbol of Hengshan's agricultural sector.
• 2000s: Launch of large-scale projects to revitalize the historical Neiwan quarter and transform it into a popular tourist zone.
• 2011: Completion of the Neiwan Railway Line reconstruction, which significantly increased the flow of tourists to the region.
• Present Day: Hengshan is developing as a center for ecotourism and Hakka cultural heritage, preserving the historical atmosphere of its old streets.

Key Stages of the Town's Transformation

The development of Hengshan is a story of a secluded mountain settlement transforming into a popular tourist center through industrialization and a subsequent return to cultural roots. Here are the main moments that defined the modern face of the district:

• Launch of the Neiwan Railway Line (1951)

  The construction of the branch line was a turning point in urban development. Originally intended for transporting timber, coal, and cement, the railway connected the isolated mountain area with Hsinchu City. This ensured the flow of goods and technology and eventually became the main artery for tourist traffic.

• Industrial Boom and Mining (1950s–1970s)

  The opening of mines and a cement plant (Asia Cement) turned Hengshan into an important industrial hub. Economic growth attracted a labor force, leading to the expansion of residential areas and the emergence of infrastructure (schools, hospitals, a cinema), forming the urban framework of the settlement.

• Agricultural Innovation: Pear Grafting (1980s)

  As mining declined, local farmers introduced a unique technology: grafting high-mountain pear buds onto lowland trees. This allowed for high-quality harvests in the foothills. The economic success of this method saved the region from depopulation after the mines closed and created the "Hengshan Pear" brand.

• Cultural Revitalization of Neiwan Old Street (2000s)

  The shift toward tourism saved the historical center from decay. The restoration of the old wooden theater and the preservation of traditional Hakka architecture transformed Neiwan Street into an open-air museum. This provided a powerful impetus for the development of small businesses: cafes, souvenir shops, and teahouses.

• Integration of Liu Hsing-chin’s Creativity into the Urban Environment

  Using the characters of famous comic artist Liu Hsing-chin ( a native of the area) to decorate streets and create a comic museum was a unique marketing move. This set Hengshan apart from other tourist towns in Taiwan and attracted a younger audience.

Architectural Appearance and Urban Development

The architecture of Hengshan reflects its journey from a traditional Hakka agricultural settlement through an industrial boom to a modern tourist hub. While there are no monumental palaces, the unique fabric of a provincial Taiwanese town has been preserved, blending Chinese traditions, Japanese influence, and industrial heritage.

Traditional Hakka Architecture (19th – Early 20th Century)

Early construction was shaped by the utilitarian needs of the first settlers and the necessity for defense. The foundation consisted of single-story structures made of red brick and adobe with tiled roofs.

• Style: Traditional Southern Chinese architecture (Minnan) with Hakka characteristics.
• Features: Characteristic "sanheyuan" houses (U-shaped estates with a central courtyard) designed for protection and farming. Use of local materials: river stone and wood.

Japanese Colonial Period and Wooden Architecture (1895–1945)

Under the Japanese administration, systematic street planning and infrastructure construction began. This period introduced elements of Japanese wooden architecture and standardized railway construction.

• Style: A blend of traditional Japanese style and Western functionalism.
• Features: Use of cypress in construction, sloping tiled roofs, sliding doors, and raised floors for ventilation. Railway stations were built according to standard designs combining wood and concrete.

Industrial Functionalism (1950–1980)

The logging and coal mining boom required the rapid construction of public and industrial buildings. Architecture became more concise, giving way to concrete and practicality.

• Style: Utilitarian Modernism.
• Features: Simple geometric shapes, flat roofs, and facades covered in small tiles (popular in Taiwan during the 70s). The emergence of two- and three-story "shophouses"—buildings with a shop on the ground floor and living quarters above.

Iconic Buildings and Districts

Several key landmarks define the appearance of Hengshan, serving as symbols of different eras:

• Neiwan Old Street: The historical core of the district. It features a row of traditional two-story shophouses where brickwork sits alongside wooden elements. The street preserves the atmosphere of a mid-20th-century commercial hub.
• Neiwan Theater: Built in 1950, this wooden theater is a classic example of architecture from the peak of the logging era. The building, with its gabled roof, originally served as a place of recreation for workers and now functions as a restaurant-museum.
• Neiwan Railway Station: A minimalist concrete building that retains features of 1950s architecture. Its simplicity emphasizes the purely functional purpose of the branch line in the past.
• Neiwan Suspension Bridge: An engineering structure over the Youluo River with massive stone pillars, which has become a significant landscape landmark.

Notable Figures of Hengshan

The modern face of Hengshan is the result of the work of talented people: from creators who breathed new life into old streets to the workers who built the region's economic foundation. Here are the key figures and communities that shaped the history of this area:

• Liu Hsing-chin
  Role: Manhua (comic) artist, inventor, honorary citizen.

  Undoubtedly the most significant figure in the district's tourism revival. A native of Hengshan and the author of the famous Taiwanese comics "A-San-Ge" and "Da-Sheng-Po." When the mining industry declined, it was the use of his characters in the design of Neiwan Street that helped turn a struggling village into a vibrant attraction. The museum dedicated to his work and the sculptures of his comic book heroes are main magnets for travelers today.

• Liao Yun-pan
  Role: Entrepreneur, philanthropist, founder of the Neiwan Theater.

  An owner of a logging business who, in 1950, addressed the lack of leisure activities for the hundreds of workers employed in the mountains. Realizing that people needed rest after hard shifts, he built the wooden Neiwan Theater. This building not only became the center of social life during the industrial boom but has also been preserved as an architectural gem, conveying the atmosphere of the region's "golden age."

• Fan Guang-chuan
  Role: Innovative agronomist.

  A man who changed the agricultural map of the region. He was one of the pioneers in introducing the technology of grafting high-mountain pear buds onto trees growing in the plains and foothills. Thanks to his efforts, the famous "Hengshan Pear" brand emerged, allowing local farmers to prosper even after the mines closed.

• Fan Zhen-zong
  Role: Statesman.

  A native of Hengshan who achieved high honors in his political career, serving as the Magistrate of Hsinchu County. His work contributed to improving the administrative structure and supporting infrastructure projects in his home rural district.

• The Miners and Loggers of Hengshan
  Role: Pioneers of industrialization.

  One cannot forget the thousands of unnamed workers—local residents and migrants—whose hands built the district's economy in the mid-20th century. It was the miners who extracted coal and the loggers who moved timber who shaped the unique character of local settlements, their way of life, and the gastronomic traditions that are so interesting to tourists today.