Toucheng

Toucheng holds a special place in the chronicles of Taiwan as the oldest Han settlement in Yilan County. The town's name, which translates as "First City" or "Head City," reflects its historical status as a pioneer in the development of the island's east coast. The official starting point of the town's history is 1796, when settler leader Wu Sha established a fortified settlement here, originally named "Touwei" (First Fort).

The rapid transformation of a small fortification into a prosperous town was driven by a combination of important geographical and logistical advantages:

• Strategic Position: Located in the north of the Lanyang Plain, the town served as a natural gateway to the region. Before the construction of modern highways and tunnels, the main routes connecting the county with the north of the island passed through here.
• Wushi Harbor: The presence of a convenient harbor played a decisive role. The port, with its famous black rocks, became the main maritime hub for trade with the mainland and other parts of the island during the Qing Dynasty.

In the 19th century, Toucheng established itself as the region's primary economic center. Prosperity was built on the export of rice and camphor, as well as the import of textiles and ceramics. The wealth of local merchants was reflected in the architecture of the famous Toucheng Old Street, where buildings gracefully blending traditional Southern Chinese style and Baroque elements have been preserved.

The challenging living conditions of the pioneers gave rise to unique rituals that are still observed today. The most famous is the "Qiangu" (Grappling with the Ghosts) festival — a spectacular competition involving climbing tall bamboo towers, which was originally held to commemorate the spirits of those who died while developing these lands.

The history of Toucheng is a journey from a small fortified outpost to a popular tourist center, inextricably linked with the sea and the development of transport.

• 1796 — Wu Sha leads a group of settlers and founds the fortified settlement of Touwei, becoming the first Han outpost on the Lanyang Plain.
• 1812 — With the official establishment of the Kavalan Subprefecture, the town strengthens its position as a key commercial and administrative hub for the region.
• 1826 — Wushi Harbor receives official status, opening to trade junks and ensuring the town's economic flowering.
• 1878 — A massive flood causes serious damage to Wushi Harbor, leading to its silting and the gradual decline of maritime trade.
• 1920 — During an administrative reform, the historical name Touwei is officially replaced by the modern one — Toucheng.
• 1924 — The completion of the Yilan Railway Line connects the town with the northern regions of the island, shifting the primary logistics from sea to land.
• 1946 — As a result of post-war reorganization, Toucheng receives the status of an urban township within Yilan County.
• 1997 — The first whale-watching vessel departs from the revived Wushi Harbor, marking the beginning of maritime eco-tourism development.
• 2006 — The opening of the Xueshan Tunnel drastically reduces travel time from the capital, making Toucheng an accessible weekend destination.
• 2010 — The grand opening of the Lanyang Museum takes place; its unique architecture has become a new symbol for the town and the entire coastline.

Key Stages of Development and Transformation

The development of Toucheng is a story of adaptation to changing conditions: from pioneers and maritime trade to the modern tourism industry. Several key milestones have defined the town's current character:

• Establishment of the Administrative Core (1812):

  The founding of the Kavalan Subprefecture transformed a military outpost into an administrative center. Significance: This event secured Toucheng's status as the region's primary town during the early stages of development, predetermining its layout and the concentration of government institutions.

• The Golden Age of Maritime Trade (Mid-19th Century):

  The heyday of Wushi Harbor, when the town was known as "Little Keelung." Significance: The economic boom allowed for the emergence of a wealthy merchant class who built the famous brick mansions on Old Street, creating a unique architectural ensemble.

• Logistics Paradigm Shift (1924):

  The opening of the Yilan Railway Line. Significance: This event compensated for the decline of the silted harbor. The town reoriented from sea routes to land routes, allowing it to maintain trade links with Taipei and other regions of the island.

• The "Preservation" Period (Mid-20th Century):

  After the county's economic center shifted to Yilan City, Toucheng's pace of industrialization slowed. Significance: The absence of aggressive modern redevelopment played a positive role, allowing the historical atmosphere and ancient buildings to be preserved in nearly their original state.

• Infrastructural Breakthrough (2006):

  The commissioning of the Xueshan Tunnel. Significance: The most important urban change of modern times. Travel time to the capital was reduced from several hours to 40–50 minutes, turning Toucheng into a popular recreational area for city dwellers.

• Coastal Revitalization (2000s – Present):

  The transformation of the Wushi Harbor area and the construction of the Lanyang Museum. Significance: A transition from an agrarian-trade economy to an "experience economy." The town has become a major center for surfing and maritime eco-tourism in northeastern Taiwan.

Architectural Character and Urban Planning

The urban fabric of Toucheng represents a fascinating dialogue between the past and the future. Historically, the town's layout was linear, developing along its main commercial artery — Heping Street — parallel to the shoreline and river routes. Today, the town's architectural landscape is clearly divided into a historical core with low-rise buildings and the modern Wushi Harbor area featuring avant-garde structures.

The town's appearance highlights three key architectural eras, each leaving its unique mark:

• Qing Dynasty Era (Traditional Minnan Style):

  The earliest layer of development, characteristic of Southern Chinese architecture. Buildings from this period are distinguished by the use of red brick, tiled roofs, and timber frames. A vital urban element is the covered arcades (tingzaijiao), which protect pedestrians from frequent rain and the scorching sun.

• Japanese Rule Period (Eclecticism and "Taiwanese Baroque"):

  In the early 20th century, particularly during the Taisho era, building facades began to transform. Local merchants, wishing to demonstrate their wealth, remodeled their homes by blending Western elements (Roman columns, pediments, stucco) with traditional Chinese motifs and Japanese construction techniques. This style is often referred to as "Merchant Baroque."

• Modernity (Eco-architecture and Postmodernism):

  The town's most recent history is marked by an effort to integrate architecture into the natural landscape. Modern buildings in the harbor area use glass, steel, and concrete not to dominate nature, but to mimic it, reflecting the geological features of the coast.

Iconic Architectural Sites

Toucheng's character is shaped by several key buildings and ensembles that vividly illustrate the changing eras:

• Toucheng Old Street:

  A living open-air museum. Here, the Lu Family Mansion, built in a Classical style with exquisite stone carvings, stands alongside the Yuan Family Mansion, which preserves the austere features of traditional brickwork. The street is famous for its "Thirteen Hongs" (13 trade rows), which were once a hub for wholesale trade.

• Lanyang Museum:

  The primary symbol of modern Toucheng. Designed by renowned architect Kris Yao, the building is a striking example of contextual architecture. Its asymmetrical triangular shape, made of glass and stone, mimics cuestas — the tilted rock formations characteristic of this coastline. The building seems to "grow" out of the ground at the same angle as the surrounding cliffs, blurring the line between man-made object and nature.

• Former Principal's Residence:

  A well-preserved example of Japanese wooden residential architecture. The building demonstrates typical features of the time: raised floors for ventilation, a tiled roof, and sliding doors, creating a calm and disciplined atmosphere.

Notable People of Toucheng

The history of Toucheng is inextricably linked with the names of pioneers, political leaders, and creators who not only shaped the town's appearance but also left a significant mark on the culture of all Taiwan.

• Wu Sha
  Pioneer and Founder of the Settlement (1731–1798)
  A key figure in the region's history. In 1796, Wu Sha led a group of settlers to establish the first Han settlement on the Lanyang Plain — Touwei (now Toucheng). Thanks to his diplomatic skills and medical knowledge, he managed to establish peaceful relations with indigenous peoples, laying the foundation for the future development of the entire Yilan County.
• Lu Zuan-xiang
  Politician, Entrepreneur, and Poet (1903–1957)
  The most famous representative of the local elite in the 20th century. Coming from a wealthy merchant family, he became the first democratically elected head of Yilan County in 1951. His magnificent mansion on Old Street, blending Japanese and Western styles, remains a major architectural landmark of the town and a symbol of that era's prosperity.
• Li Rong-chun
  Writer and Man of Letters (1914–1994)
  Known as the "Literary Hermit of Toucheng." He dedicated his life to creating works documenting the life and customs of his hometown, often sacrificing material well-being for his craft. After his death, a literary museum was established in his name, and Li Rong-chun is recognized as one of the most important Taiwanese authors of the post-war generation.
• Yang Qian-zhong
  Artist and Educator (1925–1999)
  A native of Toucheng who became famous for his landscapes of the northeast coast. His works masterfully capture the beauty of the local mountains and sea, as well as scenes from the life of fishing villages. As an educator, he mentored many talented students, making a huge contribution to the development of art education in the region.
• Yang Ting-li
  Qing Dynasty Statesman (1747–1813)
  Although his activities spanned the entire region, it was his efforts that led to the official inclusion of Yilan lands into the empire and the creation of an administrative system, which was initially centered in Toucheng (as the first fort). He played a decisive role in stabilizing the region after the first waves of settlement.