Local Insights: What to Do in Kazan
Radmila Khakova, a blogger, writer, and co-host of the podcast “Good Relationships,” shared her insights on Kazan exclusively for Kupi.com: where to find the most delicious elesh, try your hand at traditional Tatar crafts, and buy the best vintage items. Honestly, we're already in love!
Hello! My name is Radmila, I live in Kazan and I adore this city. I want to tell you about my favorite places, without claiming expertise: just as a local would show guests around. I recommend this same list to my friends who come to Kazan for a weekend or (ideally) for a vacation. All places can be found on the map by name.
Still the Kremlin
If this isn't your first time in Kazan, you can skip this point: it's for a first visit.
The gates leading to the outdoor territory of the Kazan Kremlin are open 24/7, but during the day you can also visit the Presence Chambers (former chanceries, governor's quarters, and columned hall, now a restored historical complex with cast-iron staircases, a coffee shop, cafe, souvenir shops, and a visitor center) and museums (“Khazine,” “Hermitage,” others — to avoid disappointment, it's best to check the schedule in advance).
If you don't want to visit the Kremlin museums (which is often the case), just walk through the Kremlin streets, go around the Kul Sharif Mosque, reach the leaning Suyumbike Tower (according to legend, the rebellious Tatar queen threw herself from it), turn behind the Annunciation Cathedral to find yourself at a viewpoint overlooking the river and one of the city's most kitschy buildings — the Palace of Farmers (with a huge tree in the center, you can't miss it), and on your way back, peek into the courtyard of the Presence Chambers.
Where to Eat
"Dom Chaya" (Tea House)
In the authentic Tatar canteen "Dom Chaya" on Baumana Street (a noisy souvenir street), you need to go to the second floor. Here, in the banquet hall, food was once served by waiters (instantly), but after the pandemic, it's self-service, so after finding a seat, head to the hall opposite for a tray and dishes. The food is simple (a canteen is a canteen), inexpensive, and you must try elesh with chicken and broth, and other Tatar dishes: kystybyi, gubadiya, ochpochmak. Have some vodka*, or at least compote.
We truly love this place — we celebrated our wedding here, often come ourselves, and bring all our guests. After eating, you'll understand why.
Briefly about a few more places to eat.
"Artel"
Breakfast, lunch, or dinner, "Artel" bistro is my favorite place in the city. It's beautiful, pleasant, and delicious. They offer modern author's interpretations of traditional dishes. It's best to book a table in advance by phone.
Italian bistro Cicheti — another great spot from Artur Galaichuk's team, founder of ReLab Family, who opens consistently high-quality establishments: Paloma Cantina, ReLab bar, the ambitious Pan-Asian restaurant Ichi-go Ichi-e. But the Italian Cicheti, bravely opened during the pandemic, saved me from gastronomic longing for Italy. The food here is simply delicious.
"Rannyaya Ptashka" (Early Bird) — a coffee shop with breakfasts, bagels, and bowls; noisy, with a trendy young crowd. Tables are not reserved. Good coffee! And for desserts, try the cottage cheese ring, which my Berlin friend Yulia called the “anxious ring” (a joke supported by regulars).
Coffee
Kazan has many good coffee shops: chain ones (Surf Coffee, Skuratov) and local ones ("Botanika," "Urgan-Sarai," the same "Rannyaya Ptashka," and another place from the same team — "Yasny Bar," which has no kitchen, only drinks and pastries).
Where to Walk: Parks and Embankments
Over the past six years, Kazan's urban environment has significantly changed, with new public spaces opening and existing ones improving: parks, squares, embankments.
I live in the Vakhitovsky district (this is the historical center) and mostly walk here. I've already told you about the Kremlin (a reminder: the territory is open 24/7), and I'll add a few more spots.
Lyadskoy Garden — a small and cozy historical garden with pine trees (giving the deceptive impression of a resort town, especially in summer), surrounded by good establishments and expensive apartments. In the evening, the lanterns glow; many couples in love.
"Black Lake" Park — from the Arch of Lovers (you'll understand why it's called that) to the showroom with beautiful locally produced furniture "Yaratam" (translates from Tatar as "I love"). In the center of the park is a pond, where in summer there are rubber duck or boat races (you can rent them right there), and in winter — an ice rink and music.
Lake Kaban Embankment — my favorite place in the city. Walk from the Kamal Theater building along the embankment (a loop will be approximately ten thousand leisurely steps).
I come here to be by the big water, to think, and to calm my heart.
The lake has an amazing history — from legends about Tatar khans' treasures at the bottom (guarded, of course, by a dragon) and the declaration of the lake water as ecologically dead during the peak of industrial production (illegal discharges from factories built along its banks) to an international competition for the embankment's reconstruction, which gave the place a second breath and real life. By the way, Kaban used to be the outskirts of the city, not its center.
Flea Market
Another cool Kazan spot operates strictly on Sundays from 8 AM to 12:00–1:00 PM
— the iconic "Knizhka" flea market in Tinchurin Park. Here, among all sorts of junk, you (if you're not lazy) will find rare antiques, old postcards with views of Kazan, interesting souvenirs (more interesting than in airport shops or on Baumana Street). Bargain!
What About Culture
Museums and Galleries
The "Smena" Center for Contemporary Culture, near the station square, is the main (no longer the only, but still the primary) exhibition venue for contemporary art.
Also there — the best bookstore in the city, beautiful souvenirs, gifts, pleasant merchandise. The gallery has a coffee shop, cafe, and clothing store. Film screenings, lectures, and book festivals are periodically held here. Check the venue's schedule in advance and note the opening hours.
A few more museums and exhibition spaces:
• GSI (Gallery of Contemporary Art);
• Museum of Fine Arts (eternal classic);
• Baki Urmanche Museum (sculptures);
• Lenin House-Museum (good audio guide);
• Arbuzov House-Museum (beautiful house, tour by appointment).
Library
The new building of the National Library (a new place of power) is an active urban spot, opened after a major reconstruction during the pandemic. Both the building itself, shaped like a fluttering banner with a view of the Kremlin embankment, and its functional content are interesting.
You don't need a library card or passport to enter (except for one hall). Here you'll find open book storage, reading sofas, a coffee shop, conference and exhibition halls, a podcast studio where locals record, natural ceiling light during the day, an installation with five alphabets, Soviet sculpture (ask to enter the reading room to see it, but quietly), and even the city's best contemporary theater (more on that below). Panoramic river views, a huge veranda.
Without exaggeration, this is the most beautiful and modern library in the country.
Separately, I'll add Ushkova House. This is the old building of the National Library — an ancient mansion, a gift from a generous man in love (with almost unlimited financial means) to his fiancée. You will be greatly impressed. The place no longer functions as a library, but you can take a tour here (by appointment in advance), and even if not — just look at the house from the outside.
Theater
MOÑ Theater Venue
The best place to watch contemporary performances in Kazan. It's located on the second floor of the new National Library building. The entire repertoire is worth seeing, but I'll highlight a few performances: just in case something coincides with your travel dates.
• The MOÑ performance (yes, named after the venue) is best for getting acquainted with the national flavor — modern, vibrant, and funny.
• The performance "147" based on the book "147 Dates" (which I wrote) — about love, the search for a soulmate, about loneliness. An ironic and resonant conversation about personal matters.
• "Leave Yourself Alone" — a beautiful and bold, frank physical theater performance about the relationship with one's body.
Two more theaters in two lines:
• Kamal Theater — a traditional Tatar drama theater. Interesting building and interiors, repertoire entirely in Tatar (headphones available), classic buffet during intermission (caviar sandwiches and champagne), its own audience. Here you should understand that you are a guest (you will understand).
• Creative Laboratory "Ugol" (Corner) — this is the opposite, an antonym to the theater above: a student training theater with rats in the courtyard, very experimental, alternative, vibrant, and strange. I used to love it, then I got old and don't go anymore. It will appeal to fans of the underground.
Craft School
Qul eşe (pronounced "kul eshe," translates as "handmade") — a modern conceptual school of traditional Tatar crafts. Here you can attend master classes on leather mosaic (master the famous Kazan stitch, take your creation with you), satin stitch embroidery, weaving. The studio is beautiful, located in the Old Tatar Settlement (on the way, see the historical district with preserved wooden architecture) on the lake shore in the city center.
Banya (Bathhouse)
"Par" Bath Complex
If you've come with a large group (8–10 people), I recommend going to the banya together. "Par" is an expensive place, but if there are many of you and the budget is smoothly distributed among everyone (or you're simply wealthy and can afford it), then you'll be satisfied and even (probably) happy. There's excellent steam here — definitely hire bath attendants, order echpochmaks and tea for the table, dive into cold water after the steam room, and emerge outside at any time of year.
And More
Three more directions I recommend noting in and around the city.
Sotsgorod — a district in Kazan with a special atmosphere, architecture, and history. You can spend the whole day walking around, ideally with a local.
Sviyazhsk — an island-town near Kazan. You can get there by water (ferries in warm weather) or by causeway, walk around and enjoy the views, visit the wooden architecture museum (a very good museum).
Innopolis — just walk around Russia's newest city, also not far from Kazan. Meet a delivery robot (if it's winter, help it overcome a snowdrift). Call a driverless taxi and ride it to the university where IT specialists study.
If you've already walked/driven this route, run out of places, and you're still here in Kazan, it seems you liked it — stay.
Welcome to Tatarstan!
*excessive alcohol consumption is harmful to your health!
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