Iwakuni history

Foundation and First Mentions

The history of modern Iwakuni is inextricably linked to the beginning of the Edo period in Japan. The actual founder of the city is considered to be the daimyo (feudal lord) Kikkawa Hiroie. After the Battle of Sekigahara and the redistribution of lands in 1600, he chose this area to establish his residence.

A key milestone was 1608, when the construction of Iwakuni Castle on the summit of Mount Shiroyama was completed. Around this stronghold, a classic Japanese "castle town" (jokamachi) began to form, becoming the administrative centre of the domain.

Key Factors of Development

The transformation of Iwakuni into an important regional centre was driven by several factors:

• Geographical Protection: The winding Nishiki River served as a natural wide moat, protecting the approaches to the castle and samurai quarters.
• Political Will: The Kikkawa clan paid great attention to infrastructure development, turning the city into a fortified yet comfortable living centre.
• Strategic Location: The city was situated on important routes of Suo Province (now part of Yamaguchi Prefecture), which facilitated control over the region.

Early Cultural and Economic Features

A unique feature of early Iwakuni was distinct zoning dictated by the landscape. The river divided the city into two parts: the elite samurai district at the foot of the castle and the town of commoners (merchants and artisans) on the opposite bank.

The culmination of the city's development in the early period was the construction of the famous Kintaikyo Bridge in 1673. This engineering marvel not only solved the problem of crossing during floods but also stimulated economic exchange between social classes, becoming a symbol of the region's prosperity and technical mastery.

Major Milestones in the History of Iwakuni

• 1608 — Construction of Iwakuni Castle on Mount Shiroyama completed, becoming the administrative centre of the Kikkawa clan's domain.
• 1615 — The main tower of the castle was dismantled in accordance with the shogunate's "One Castle Per Province" decree, leaving only the residential quarters at the base.
• 1673 — The famous five-arch Kintaikyo Bridge was built, connecting the samurai quarter with the merchant and artisan districts.
• 1674 — The bridge was reinforced with new stone piers after flood damage, allowing it to stand for more than two centuries.
• 1871 — During the Meiji Restoration reforms and the abolition of the domain system, the territory became part of Yamaguchi Prefecture.
• 1922 — Kintaikyo Bridge was officially recognised as a Place of Scenic Beauty and a National Treasure of Japan.
• 1940 — Iwakuni officially received city status (shi) as a result of the merger of Iwakuni town with neighbouring villages.
• 1950 — Typhoon Kezia destroyed the historic bridge, which was a tragedy for locals and prompted a large-scale reconstruction.
• 1953 — The restored Kintaikyo Bridge was solemnly opened, recreated with maximum precision to the original.
• 1962 — On the historic foundation on Mount Shiroyama, the main tower of Iwakuni Castle was reconstructed using reinforced concrete.
• 2006 — The city significantly expanded its boundaries by merging with several neighbouring towns and villages in the region.
• 2012 — Iwakuni Kintaikyo Airport opened, resuming regular civil aviation connections with Tokyo.

Stages of Development and Transformation of Iwakuni

The history of Iwakuni is a journey from a feudal fortress to a modern industrial and tourist centre. Below are the key stages that defined the modern appearance and economy of the city.

• Formation of the "Jokamachi" Structure (Early 17th Century).
  The foundation of the castle and the castle town laid the groundwork for urban planning. The Nishiki River became a natural boundary dividing the city into the administrative-military sector (samurai quarter) and the trade-artisan district, which can still be traced in the architecture and zoning today.
• Construction of Kintaikyo Bridge (1673).
  The erection of the bridge was not only an engineering breakthrough but also a powerful economic driver. A permanent crossing linked the two banks, simplifying logistics and trade, which turned Iwakuni into an important regional hub on the Sanyo path.
• Creation of the Air Base (1938).
  In the pre-war period, an airfield was built on the delta of the Nishiki River, which forever changed the city's landscape. Today, it is a Marine Corps Air Station (shared by Japan and the USA), which is a major employer and has a significant impact on the demographics and multicultural atmosphere of the city.
• Development of the Petrochemical Cluster (Mid-20th Century).
  In the post-war years, Iwakuni became part of the Seto Inland Sea industrial zone. The construction of large factories (including oil refining and paper production) ensured economic stability and an influx of labour, transforming the city into an industrial centre.
• Cultural Reconstruction (1950–1960s).
  The restoration of the Kintaikyo Bridge destroyed by the typhoon and the reconstruction of Iwakuni Castle marked the transition to the development of a tourism economy. The city began to position itself as a guardian of traditions, attracting travellers with a unique combination of history and nature.
• Opening of the Civil Airport (2012).
  The launch of commercial flights at the military airfield (Iwakuni Kintaikyo Airport) radically improved transport accessibility. Direct air connections with Tokyo stimulated business activity and increased the flow of tourists to the region.

Urban Structure: A City of Two Banks

The architectural appearance of Iwakuni is dictated by its unique geography and history as a military settlement. The urban development of the city was built around the Nishiki River, which became a natural boundary between two worlds:

• Yokoyama District (Left Bank): The historic administrative centre at the foot of the mountain. The layout of the classic "jokamachi" (castle town) with wide streets, park zones, and samurai residences has been preserved here.
• Nishiki District (Right Bank): A trade and artisan quarter that eventually transformed into a modern city centre with dense development, a railway station, and commercial buildings.

Architectural Eras and Styles

In the appearance of Iwakuni, traditional Japanese architecture of the Edo period intertwines with the functionalism of the post-war era. There is no distinct presence of European styles (such as Gothic or Baroque) here; instead, the evolution of national forms is clearly expressed.

• Edo Period (17th–19th Centuries) — Traditional Wooden Architecture
  The era of the flourishing of feudal architecture. This period is characterised by conciseness, the use of natural materials (wood, paper, clay), and harmony with the landscape.
  Examples: Mekata Family Residence (a preserved 18th-century samurai estate) and the Nagayamon Gate.
• 17th Century Engineering Art — Unique "Kintai" Style
  Bridge architecture stands apart. The style of the Kintaikyo Bridge is difficult to classify with standard terms; it is a masterpiece of wooden engineering architecture, combining arched structures on stone piers, created to withstand strong currents.
• Showa Period (1926–1989) — Historical Reconstructionism and Modernism
  After the war, the city took the path of restoring lost symbols using modern materials.
  Examples: Iwakuni Castle (1962 reconstruction). Externally, it repeats the style of the Momoyama period (late 16th century), but structurally it is made of reinforced concrete, which is typical for museum architecture in Japan in the second half of the 20th century.
• Modernity — Industrial Functionalism
  The coastal zone of the city represents an example of industrial architecture: large-scale factory complexes and port facilities, forming a "night industrial landscape" popular with photographers.

Landmarks Defining the Cityscape

The visual code of Iwakuni is defined by three dominants belonging to different height levels:

• Iwakuni Castle: A vertical dominant on the mountaintop, visible from almost any point in the city.
• Kintaikyo Bridge: A horizontal link serving as the architectural centre and the main symbol of the city.
• Kikko Park: The former residence of the feudal clan, now representing an example of landscape architecture with fountains and shrines.

Distinguished Figures of Iwakuni

The history of Iwakuni is rich with names that have left a mark not only in the city's chronicles but also in the culture of all Japan. From feudal rulers and legendary samurai to modern artists and scientists — here is a list of key figures associated with this city.

• Kikkawa Hiroie (1561–1625)
  First Daimyo (Ruler) of the Iwakuni Domain
  The founder of the modern city. It was he who chose the strategically important location in the bend of the Nishiki River for the construction of the castle and laid out the structure of the castle town, which has survived to this day.
• Kikkawa Hiroyoshi (1621–1693)
  Third Daimyo of Iwakuni, Innovative Engineer
  Went down in history as the creator of the city's main symbol — the Kintaikyo Bridge. Possessing deep knowledge in engineering, he personally supervised the development of the unique arched structure capable of withstanding floods. He also paid great attention to the development of education and agriculture in the region.
• Sasaki Kojiro (approx. 1585–1612)
  Legendary Swordsman and Samurai
  The main rival of the famous Miyamoto Musashi. According to local legends, it was on the banks of the Nishiki River, watching the flight of swallows under the willow trees near the Kintaikyo Bridge, that he developed his deadly technique "Tsubame-gaeshi" (Swallow Cut). A monument is installed near the bridge in his honour.
• Uno Chiyo (1897–1996)
  Writer and Kimono Designer
  One of the most influential women in 20th-century Japanese literature, a native of Iwakuni. Known for her bold novels for their time (such as "Confessions of Love") and her contribution to the preservation of kimono-wearing traditions. Her home in Iwakuni has now been turned into a museum open to tourists.
• Naoto Tajima (1912–1990)
  Track and Field Athlete, Olympic Champion
  Born in Iwakuni. Became a national hero by winning the gold medal in the triple jump at the 1936 Olympic Games in Berlin, setting a world record that stood for 15 years.
• Heisuke Hironaka (born 1931)
  World-Class Mathematician
  A native of the region (Yuu town, now part of Iwakuni). Laureate of the Fields Medal (equivalent to the Nobel Prize for mathematicians) in 1970 for his work on algebraic geometry. His achievements highlight the city's contribution to global science.