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Iwakuni

About

Welcome to Iwakuni, a captivating castle town located in the Yamaguchi Prefecture of Japan. Renowned for its scenic beauty and well-preserved cultural heritage, this city offers a peaceful retreat for travelers seeking to experience the traditional atmosphere of the country away from the bustling metropolises. Situated on the delta of the Nishiki River, Iwakuni is home to approximately 128,000 residents and serves as a gateway to the charms of western Honshu.

Iwakuni. Source: Kupi.Binoculars

The city is best known for the iconic Kintaikyo Bridge, a magnificent five-arched wooden structure that spans the river and is considered one of Japan's most beautiful bridges. Just a short distance away, visitors can take a ropeway up to Iwakuni Castle, which offers panoramic views of the city and the shimmering Inland Sea. For those interested in the region's past, exploring the history of Iwakuni reveals a fascinating legacy of samurai culture and feudal lords that shaped the area.

Another unique feature of Iwakuni is the presence of the Shirohebi, or white snakes. These rare creatures are believed to bring good fortune and are designated as a national natural treasure, with a dedicated museum where visitors can view them up close. Whether you are strolling through the lush Kikko Park or admiring the cherry blossoms in spring, Iwakuni promises a memorable and picturesque journey.

Weather Overview

Travelers visiting Iwakuni can expect a climate characterized by warm, humid summers and cool, relatively dry winters. To help you pack appropriately for your trip, it is helpful to review the detailed weather in Iwakuni before you go.

The summer months, particularly from June to August, are the warmest time of the year. August typically sees the highest temperatures, with an average of 27.0°C and daily maximums reaching around 29.9°C. This season is also the wettest, especially in July, which records approximately 10mm of precipitation and can have up to 19 wet days.

In contrast, the winter season from December to February is much cooler. January is generally the coldest month, with average temperatures dipping to 4.9°C and lows around 1.8°C, though precipitation remains low at about 2mm. The transitional seasons of spring and autumn offer moderate conditions; for example, May provides pleasant warmth with an average of 17.9°C, while October cools down to a comfortable 17.8°C.

Interesting Facts

Beyond the scenic views and historic sites, Iwakuni is a city filled with unique cultural nuances and rare natural phenomena. Digging deeper into its local heritage reveals a collection of surprising details that define the city's distinct character.

  • The city is famous for being the only place where a population of albino Japanese rat snakes exists naturally rather than as isolated mutations. These rare creatures are honored at the Iwakuni Shirohebi Shrine, where they are revered as divine messengers that bring good fortune and business prosperity.

  • Local culinary tradition features a unique dish called Iwakuni Sushi, often referred to as "Feudal Lord Sushi" (Tonosama Sushi). Unlike standard sushi, this is a massive, pressed variety made in large wooden boxes with multiple layers of lotus root, egg, and fish, originally created to preserve food for the samurai class.

  • Aviation enthusiasts will find Iwakuni Airport particularly interesting because it shares its runway and facilities with a U.S. Marine Corps Air Station. This unique dual-use arrangement means that civilian passengers often take off and land alongside military aircraft.

  • In the summer months, the Nishiki River becomes a stage for Ukai, or cormorant fishing, a tradition spanning nearly 400 years. Unlike in other regions, the fishermen in Iwakuni wear traditional noble costumes while guiding the birds by torchlight to catch sweetfish.

Iwakuni Shirohebi Shrine. Source: Kupi.Binoculars

How to Get There

Planning your journey to this scenic castle town is the first step toward an unforgettable experience. Whether you prefer flying or taking the train, there are several options to suit your itinerary. For a comprehensive overview of routes and transport tips, you can read more about how to get to Iwakuni.

The most convenient entry point for air travelers is Iwakuni Kintaikyo Airport (IWK), which is located directly in Iwakuni, just 3.0 km from the city center. This proximity allows for a quick transfer to downtown, taking approximately 15 minutes by taxi or bus. As a facility shared with the marine base, it offers a unique arrival experience and connects the city efficiently to major hubs like Tokyo.

Another viable option is flying into Hiroshima Airport (HIJ) in the neighboring city of Hiroshima. Situated about 71.1 km from Iwakuni, this airport handles a significant volume of passenger traffic. The journey from Hiroshima Airport to Iwakuni typically takes around 90 to 120 minutes by limousine bus or a combination of bus and train, making it a practical alternative if direct flights to Iwakuni are unavailable.

For clarity, here is a summary of the main airports:

Airport Name City Passenger Traffic Km from City
Matsuyama Airport Matsuyama Large 58.2
Hiroshima Airport Hiroshima Large 71.1
Oita Airport Oita Medium 88.3
Iwakuni Kintaikyo Airport Iwakuni Medium 3.0
Hagi-Iwami Airport Masuda Small 68.9

Regarding rail travel, Iwakuni is well-connected to the extensive Japanese railway network. The city is served by two primary stations depending on your speed of travel. Shin-Iwakuni Station is a stop on the Sanyo Shinkansen line, offering high-speed connections from major cities such as Osaka and Fukuoka. For those traveling regionally or heading directly to the city center, Iwakuni Station on the JR Sanyo Main Line is the main hub, located conveniently close to downtown accommodations and tourist sites.

Main Attractions

Iwakuni offers a delightful mix of historical landmarks, scenic beauty, and unique cultural treasures. While the city is famous for its iconic bridge and castle, it also houses spiritual sites that provide a glimpse into local traditions and beliefs. Visitors can easily spend a day exploring these fascinating spots, which are often located within a comfortable distance of one another.

Undoubtedly the most famous site in the city is the Kintaikyo Bridge. This visually stunning structure is composed of five wooden arches set upon massive stone pillars, spanning the Nishiki River. Originally built in 1673 without the use of nails, the bridge is a masterpiece of traditional Japanese engineering. Walking across its steep arches offers beautiful views of the river and the surrounding mountains, especially during cherry blossom season or the colorful autumn months.

Perched atop Mount Shiroyama, Iwakuni Castle watches over the city and the river below. Although the current structure is a modern reconstruction from the 1960s, it faithfully replicates the Momoyama-period architecture of the original. Visitors can take a scenic ropeway ride up the mountain to reach the castle grounds. Inside, a museum displays samurai swords, armor, and other artifacts, while the top floor serves as an observation deck offering panoramic views of the city and the Seto Inland Sea.

For those seeking spiritual blessings, the Shirasaki Hachiman Shrine is a significant destination. Established centuries ago, this shrine is dedicated to Hachiman, the god of war and archery, who is also revered as a guardian of the community. It is a popular spot for locals to pray for safety, success, and protection against misfortune. The shrine grounds are peaceful and feature traditional architectural elements that reflect the region's religious heritage.

Shirasaki Hachiman Shrine. Source: Kupi.Binoculars

Another unique site is the Iwakuni Shirohebi Shrine, which is distinct from the museum dedicated to the white snakes. This shrine specifically venerates the white snake as a deity of water and a messenger of the gods, believed to bring financial fortune and good luck. The architecture here often incorporates snake motifs, and it serves as a spiritual center connecting the local reverence for these rare creatures with Shinto traditions.

Local Cuisine

To truly understand the culture of Iwakuni, one must explore its distinct culinary landscape, which blends the elegance of castle town history with the fresh bounty of the Nishiki River. The local food scene is characterized by unique regional specialties that are difficult to find elsewhere in Japan, making dining here a highlight for any visitor.

The most iconic dish is undoubtedly Iwakuni Sushi, often referred to as "Feudal Lord Sushi." Unlike the bite-sized nigiri common in other parts of Japan, this is a pressed sushi made in large wooden frames. It features multiple layers of seasoned rice, colorful toppings like shredded egg, and local fish, all compacted together and then cut into square servings. Another local staple is the Iwakuni Renkon (lotus root). Grown in the city's vast lotus fields, this variety is known for having one more hole than the standard lotus root and possesses a distinctive, crisp texture that locals love in tempura or simmered dishes.

Given the city's location on the clear waters of the Nishiki River, freshwater fish play a significant role in the local diet. Ayu, or sweetfish, is a seasonal delicacy particularly popular in summer. Tourists can enjoy this fish simply salted and grilled over charcoal, a preparation that highlights its natural, melon-like aroma. The dining experience is often enhanced by the scenic views of the river, where the fish are caught.

When it comes to drinks, Iwakuni is famous among connoisseurs for its sake production. The region's pure water and high-quality rice allow breweries to produce some of Japan's most renowned premium sake, including the world-famous Dassai brand, which originates from the mountains of Iwakuni. For non-alcoholic options, the local green tea is excellent, but the city is also surprisingly famous for its soft-serve ice cream. Near the Kintaikyo Bridge, visitors will find shops offering an overwhelming variety of over 100 flavors, ranging from classic vanilla to adventurous options like wasabi or curry.

The food culture in Iwakuni is relaxed and accessible, with many eateries clustered around the major tourist sites and the downtown station area. You can find everything from casual street food stalls near the bridge to traditional restaurants serving multi-course meals. For a sit-down meal where you can enjoy the local atmosphere, you might consider visiting Kinjiro, a dining spot that adds to the city's gastronomic variety.

Kinjiro. Source: Kupi.Binoculars

Travel Tips

To ensure your visit to Iwakuni is as smooth and enjoyable as possible, a little preparation goes a long way. These practical tips are designed to help you navigate local customs, logistics, and daily life in this charming castle town.

  1. Clothing and Gear: Iwakuni experiences four distinct seasons, so pack accordingly. Summers are hot and humid, requiring breathable fabrics, while winters can be chilly, so layers are essential. Most importantly, bring comfortable walking shoes. You will need good grip and stability to cross the steep arches of the Kintaikyo Bridge and to explore the trails around the castle grounds.

  2. Transportation: The city is well-connected by buses that run frequently between Iwakuni Station and the Kintaikyo Bridge area. Taxis are available but can be pricey. If you plan to explore the wider Yamaguchi Prefecture, renting a car is a good option, but for the main city attractions, the local bus network is sufficient and reliable.

  3. Finances: The local currency is the Japanese Yen (JPY). While major hotels and tourist facilities accept credit cards, many smaller shops and traditional restaurants in Iwakuni still prefer cash. It is wise to carry sufficient yen with you. International ATMs are commonly found in convenience stores like 7-Eleven and Lawson, which are open 24/7.

  4. Health and Safety: Iwakuni is a very safe city for tourists. Pharmacies (often marked as "Drug Stores") are widely available for basic needs, though they may not be open late at night. In case of a medical emergency, dial 119 for an ambulance. Tap water is safe to drink everywhere.

  5. Communication: Japanese is the primary language. While staff at major tourist sites like the castle and museum may speak some English, it is less common in local eateries and shops. having a translation app on your phone is highly recommended. You can purchase data SIM cards at the airport upon arrival or at major electronics stores.

  6. Local Etiquette: Politeness is key in Japanese culture. A slight bow is the standard greeting. Be mindful to take off your shoes when entering traditional accommodations, temple halls, or fitting rooms. Additionally, keep your voice down when using public transport to respect the peace of other passengers.

  7. What to Avoid: Avoid eating or drinking while walking down the street, as it is generally considered rude. The exception is often the area immediately surrounding the ice cream stands near the bridge, but it is polite to stand still while you eat rather than walking with food in hand.

  8. Smart Savings: Look for the combined ticket (Set Ticket) sold at the Kintaikyo Bridge entrance. This single pass covers the bridge toll, the round-trip ropeway fare, and admission to Iwakuni Castle, offering a significant discount compared to buying each ticket individually.

Armed with these practical insights, you are ready to explore the historic streets and scenic riverbanks of Iwakuni with confidence. Enjoy the unique blend of samurai history and warm local hospitality that awaits you!

Entertainment & Nightlife

While Iwakuni is widely known for its historical tranquility during the day, the city transforms as the sun sets, offering a vibrant yet relaxed nightlife scene. The entertainment culture here is a unique blend of traditional Japanese hospitality and a cosmopolitan atmosphere, influenced significantly by the nearby marine base. The primary hub for evening entertainment is the Marifu-cho district, located conveniently around JR Iwakuni Station. This area comes alive at night with neon signs, bustling izakayas, and a variety of bars ranging from quiet cocktail lounges to lively pubs.

For a memorable evening of dining and drinks, Kinjiro is a standout venue that captures the essence of local flavor. It is an excellent place to start your night, offering a menu that pairs perfectly with local sake and beer. The atmosphere in such establishments is typically warm and casual, welcoming both locals and visitors. Apart from dining, the nightlife in Iwakuni often involves karaoke. You will find numerous karaoke boxes and snack bars in the downtown area where you can sing the night away in a private room or at a counter, a quintessential Japanese pastime.

Another "must-visit" spot for a unique night out is Irori Sanzoku (The Bandit's Hearth). Although located a short drive into the mountains from the city center, it is a legendary destination for evening entertainment. This restaurant resembles a traditional festival, decorated with lanterns, banners, and outdoor seating nestled in nature. It is famous for its "Sanzoku-yaki" (grilled chicken on a stick) and stays open late, making it a popular adventure for late-night drives and hearty meals in a spirited, rustic setting.

When planning a night out, keep in mind that many bars and restaurants in the Marifu-cho area stay open until midnight or later, especially on weekends. The dress code is generally casual; jeans and a nice shirt are appropriate for almost any venue. Prices are reasonable, with many bars offering "nomihoudai" (all-you-can-drink) deals for a set period. Safety is rarely a concern in Iwakuni, as the streets are well-lit and secure for walking. However, if you are venturing to places like Sanzoku or staying out late, it is advisable to use a taxi. Taxis are readily available at the station taxi stand, or venues can call one for you. If you have a rental car and plan to drink, you must use a "Daiko" service, where two drivers arrive—one to drive your car home and another to follow.

Before the evening festivities begin, there are plenty of daytime activities to fill your schedule. You might arrive via Iwakuni Airport, which is an attraction in itself due to its unique shared military-civilian status. For a touch of culture, a visit to the Iwakuni Shirohebi Shrine or the Shirasaki Hachiman Shrine offers a peaceful contrast to the lively nights, allowing you to appreciate the spiritual heritage of the region.

Parks & Museums

Iwakuni is a city where lush greenery and deep-rooted history intertwine, offering visitors a chance to explore beautifully landscaped gardens and cultural institutions that celebrate the region's samurai legacy. Beyond the famous bridge, the city's parks and museums provide a quieter, more intimate look into the life of the feudal lords and the natural beauty that surrounds the castle town.

Kikko Park is the crown jewel of the city's green spaces, located at the foot of Mount Shiroyama. Once the residence of the ruling Kikkawa feudal lords, this expansive park is now a haven of tranquility featuring meticulously maintained gardens, large fountains, and seasonal flowers. It is particularly stunning during the cherry blossom season in spring and when the irises bloom in early summer. A short walk away lies Momijidani Park, a serene valley that was historically the temple area of the Iwakuni domain. As its name suggests, it is famous for its maple trees, which turn a brilliant crimson in autumn, creating a picturesque canopy over the moss-covered grounds and old temple structures.

For those interested in the martial history of Japan, the Iwakuni Art Museum is a must-visit destination. Located near the ropeway station, this museum houses an impressive collection of samurai armor, swords, and artifacts, offering insight into the craftsmanship and warrior spirit of the era. Another key cultural site is the Kikkawa Historical Museum, which displays personal belongings, documents, and treasures passed down through the Kikkawa clan, providing a detailed narrative of the family that governed this region for centuries.

The city is also home to unique living exhibits. While exploring the Kikko Park area, visitors should stop by the facility dedicated to the white snakes, or visit the nearby Iwakuni Shirohebi Shrine. These albino rat snakes are a designated national natural treasure and are kept in viewing environments where you can observe them up close. The shrine itself connects this natural wonder with local spiritual beliefs, making it a fascinating blend of biology and folklore.

Architectural enthusiasts will appreciate the Mekata Residence, one of the few remaining mid-ranking samurai houses in the area. Preserved in its original 18th-century style, the house features a distinct layout with separate entrances for family members and guests, offering a tangible glimpse into the domestic life of the samurai class. The surrounding district, with its white-walled structures and black tile roofs, retains the atmosphere of the Edo period.

For a more authentic local experience, take a stroll along the banks of the Nishiki River away from the main crowds at the bridge. In the early morning, the mist rising from the water creates a mystical atmosphere, and you might spot locals practicing tai chi or fishing. It is a perfect spot for a quiet picnic to admire the natural landscape that has inspired poets and artists for generations.

Getting Around

Navigating Iwakuni is relatively straightforward, thanks to a city layout that is compact and well-served by a reliable surface transport network. Unlike Japan's massive metropolises, there is no subway system here. Instead, the primary mode of public transportation for getting around the city center and reaching major tourist sites is the local bus service. This network is designed to efficiently connect the railway hubs with the historic districts, making it easy for visitors to travel between the downtown area and the scenic spots along the river.

The most popular route for visitors is the bus line connecting Iwakuni Station to the Kintaikyo Bridge area. These buses run frequently, typically every 5 to 15 minutes during the day, ensuring minimal wait times. Travelers will often encounter the charming "Kintaikyo" retro-styled buses, which add a nostalgic touch to the short journey. For those arriving via the high-speed rail network at Shin-Iwakuni Station, the bus is also the most practical method to reach the bridge or transfer to the main city station. While the scenic Nishikigawa Seiryu Line train also operates in the region, the bus offers a significantly more frequent and direct connection between the two stations.

Regarding payment, the system is modernized but retains traditional elements found across Japan. On most buses, you enter through the rear door and take a small numbered ticket from a machine, which indicates your boarding stop. When you exit through the front door, you pay the fare corresponding to your number, as displayed on the digital board near the driver. While cash (coins and 1,000 yen bills) is standard, major IC cards like ICOCA and Suica are widely accepted on local buses and JR trains, offering a convenient "tap-and-go" experience.

For rail travel beyond the city limits or for scenic excursions, the local trains are an excellent option. Iwakuni Station serves as a major hub on the JR Sanyo Main Line, providing easy access to neighboring Hiroshima and Miyajima. For a more leisurely pace, the aforementioned Nishikigawa Seiryu Line takes passengers along the winding Nishiki River, offering beautiful views of the countryside, though it is less suited for quick crosstown transfers than the bus.

A unique feature of the local transport landscape is the Iwakuni Castle Ropeway. While primarily a tourist attraction, it functions as a necessary mode of transport to reach the castle atop Mount Shiroyama. The gondolas offer stunning aerial views of the city and river delta. It operates daily, usually from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, with departures every 15 minutes. A convenient combined ticket is available that covers the bridge crossing, the ropeway fare, and castle entry.

For those seeking more flexibility, taxis are readily available at taxi stands outside both railway stations and near the Kintaikyo Bridge. They are safe and clean but can be more expensive than public transit. Alternatively, bicycle rentals are a popular choice, especially on sunny days. Rental shops are located near Iwakuni Station and the bridge area, allowing you to cycle along the flat, paved paths of the Nishiki River at your own pace.

Accommodation

Finding the perfect place to stay in Iwakuni is relatively stress-free, as the city offers a focused selection of accommodations that cater primarily to practical travelers and those seeking a touch of tradition. The range of options typically spans from efficient, modern business hotels to charming traditional Japanese inns, known as ryokans. While the city does not feature an abundance of ultra-luxury international resorts, it compensates with clean, comfortable, and often reasonably priced facilities that provide excellent hospitality.

Travelers typically choose between two distinct areas depending on their priorities: convenience or atmosphere. The area surrounding JR Iwakuni Station is the most practical choice for those arriving by train or planning to use the city as a base for day trips. Here, you will find a cluster of Western-style business hotels that offer compact but well-equipped rooms, easy access to convenience stores, and proximity to the lively dining district of Marifu-cho. This location is ideal for visitors who value quick transport links and nightlife.

For a more scenic and immersive experience, the neighborhood around the Kintaikyo Bridge is highly recommended. Staying in this area allows you to wake up to views of the Nishiki River and enjoy the peaceful ambiance of the castle town after the day-trippers have left. This district is home to several ryokans and older hotels where guests can experience sleeping on tatami mats and enjoying traditional kaiseki meals featuring local river fish.

Booking Tips: Iwakuni is a popular destination during the cherry blossom season in early April and the autumn foliage season in November. During these peak times, rooms near the bridge can sell out months in advance. It is highly advisable to book your accommodation as early as possible if you plan to visit during these festivals. Conversely, on regular weekdays, it is often possible to find good availability at reasonable rates.

Price Range and Booking: generally, accommodation in Iwakuni is quite affordable compared to major tourist hubs like Kyoto or Tokyo. Most business hotels fall into the budget to mid-range category. Booking can easily be done through major international online platforms for the Western-style hotels near the station. However, for some of the smaller, traditional ryokans near the river, you may need to book directly or use Japan-specific travel websites to secure a reservation.

Nearby Cities

For those looking to explore the surroundings, Iwakuni serves as an excellent base for day trips to several interesting nearby locations. The region offers a mix of urban excitement, historical depth, and scenic beauty, all within easy reach.

Located just a short distance away, Hiroshima is a vibrant city that seamlessly blends historical significance with modern culture. Visitors can pay their respects at the Peace Memorial Park and the iconic Atomic Bomb Dome, or enjoy the city's lively atmosphere. Hiroshima is also a culinary destination, famous for its distinct layered style of okonomiyaki, which is a must-try for any food lover.

For maritime enthusiasts, Kure offers a deep dive into Japan's naval heritage. This port city is home to the Yamato Museum, featuring a massive 1/10 scale model of the battleship Yamato, and the JMSDF Kure Museum, where you can walk through a real retired submarine. It provides a unique educational experience regarding the region's shipbuilding history.

Across the waters of the Seto Inland Sea lies Matsuyama, famous for Dogo Onsen, one of the oldest and most picturesque hot springs in the country. The main bathhouse is a stunning example of traditional wooden architecture. High above the city stands Matsuyama Castle, one of Japan's twelve original castles, offering panoramic views of the city and the sea.

City Population Distance (km)
Hiroshima 1198021 33
Matsuyama 506743 62
Kure 212159 33
Higashihiroshima 197347 56
Shunan 137899 40

These nearby destinations offer a glimpse into the diverse culture and landscapes of the region, making them perfect additions to your itinerary.

Shopping & Souvenirs

While Iwakuni is not primarily known as a high-fashion destination like Tokyo or Osaka, it offers a delightful shopping experience focused on regional specialties and traditional craftsmanship. The city provides a balanced mix of modern conveniences for daily needs and charming local vendors where visitors can discover unique items that reflect the area's rich history and natural bounty. Shopping here is less about luxury brands and more about finding authentic goods that tell the story of the Yamaguchi Prefecture.

The two primary shopping districts cater to different needs. The area surrounding JR Iwakuni Station serves as the commercial hub of the city, featuring a variety of drugstores, clothing boutiques, and convenience stores that are practical for travelers. In contrast, the streets leading up to the Kintaikyo Bridge offer a more tourist-centric atmosphere. This picturesque area is lined with souvenir shops and small stalls selling local crafts, making it the perfect place to browse for gifts after a day of sightseeing.

For a more comprehensive shopping experience, Fuji Grand Iwakuni is the city's most prominent shopping mall, located just a short walk from the main train station. This multi-story complex houses a large supermarket, a food court, and numerous retail outlets selling everything from apparel and accessories to books and household goods. It is a convenient stop for tourists who need to pick up travel essentials or want to explore Japanese grocery products.

Although Iwakuni does not have a large central market in the traditional sense, the local agricultural scene is vibrant. Visitors can find fresh, seasonal produce at smaller local grocers and "Michi-no-Eki" (roadside stations) in the outskirts. The region is particularly famous for its lotus roots, and during the harvest season, you will see fresh Iwakuni Renkon being sold, which is prized for its crisp texture and distinct quality.

When it comes to souvenirs, Iwakuni has several "must-buy" items. The most famous export is undoubtedly Dassai Sake, produced by the Asahi Shuzo brewery located in the mountains of Iwakuni. It is considered one of the best sakes in Japan and makes for an excellent premium gift. For lighter snacks, look for Renkon Chips (fried lotus root) or Kintaikyo Senbei, traditional rice crackers shaped like the arches of the famous bridge.

Standard opening hours for most shops are typically from 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM, though some supermarkets and convenience stores operate longer or even 24 hours. While major shopping centers like Fuji Grand and convenience stores accept credit cards and IC cards, many smaller souvenir shops near the bridge and traditional restaurants still prefer cash. It is highly recommended to carry sufficient Japanese Yen when exploring the historic districts.

Tax-free shopping is available for foreign tourists at select locations, primarily in larger drugstores and major retail chains. If you spend over a certain amount (usually 5,000 to 5,500 JPY excluding tax) on consumables or general goods, you may be eligible for an immediate tax refund upon presenting your passport. Look for the "Japan. Tax-Free Shop" symbol at the entrance or checkout counters to take advantage of this benefit.

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