Matsuyama history

The history of Matsuyama is inextricably linked to the military and cultural events of Shikoku Island. Although these lands have been inhabited since ancient times, the formation of the city in its current form began in the feudal era, transforming it into an important administrative and cultural centre of the region.

Foundation and Early Stage

Matsuyama was founded as a jokamachi, or castle town. Its history began with the construction of the famous Matsuyama Castle. In 1602-1603, the daimyo (feudal lord) Kato Yoshiaki laid the foundation for the fortress on the summit of Mount Katsuyama. After the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, he received these lands and set about creating a powerful stronghold, around which the settlement began to grow. Later, in 1635, the administration of the domain and the castle passed to the Matsudaira clan, relatives of the ruling Tokugawa shogunate, who held these lands until the end of the feudal era.

Key Development Factors

Several key aspects defined the growth and prosperity of Matsuyama:

• Political Centre: As the capital of the Matsuyama Domain (Han), the city was the administrative and military heart of the region throughout the Edo period. The castle served not only as a defensive structure but also as the residence of the daimyo, attracting samurai, artisans, and merchants to the city.
• Geographical Location: Its location on a fertile plain near the coast of the Seto Inland Sea facilitated the development of agriculture and trade, providing the city with necessary resources.
• Ancient Resort Dogo Onsen: Long before the castle was founded, Dogo Onsen was already known in this territory — one of the oldest hot springs in Japan, mentioned in ancient texts such as the "Man'yoshu". This natural resort attracted pilgrims and travellers for centuries, including members of the Imperial family, giving the region a special cultural and economic status.

Early Cultural and Economic Features

The economy of early Matsuyama was typical for a castle town, oriented towards serving the needs of the samurai class and the lord's court. Crafts related to the production of weapons, armour, and household items flourished. However, a unique feature of the city from the very beginning was its close connection to the culture of wellness and hospitality, thanks to the Dogo Onsen springs. This contributed to the formation of a special atmosphere that later attracted many figures of culture and art to the city, including the famous poet Masaoka Shiki and the writer Natsume Soseki, who immortalised Matsuyama in his novel "Botchan".

Antiquity and Middle Ages

• Approx. 8th Century: The Dogo Onsen hot springs, located within modern Matsuyama, are mentioned in the oldest collection of Japanese poetry, the "Man'yoshu", testifying to the thousand-year history of this site.
• 1602–1603: Daimyo (feudal lord) Kato Yoshiaki begins the construction of Matsuyama Castle on Mount Katsuyama, laying the foundation for the future castle town.
• 1627: The main phase of the castle's construction is completed, becoming one of the most impressive in the region.
• 1635: Ownership of the castle and surrounding lands passes to the Matsudaira clan, relatives of the ruling Tokugawa shogunate.

Edo Period and Modernisation

• 1784: The main keep of Matsuyama Castle is destroyed by a lightning strike.
• 1854: Reconstruction of the main castle keep is completed; this structure survives to this day.
• 1867: Two future giants of Japanese literature are born in Matsuyama — the poet Masaoka Shiki and the writer Natsume Soseki.
• 1889: Matsuyama officially receives city status as part of the Meiji era administrative reforms.
• 1894: The main building of the public bathhouse Dogo Onsen Honkan opens, becoming an architectural symbol of the city.
• 1906: Natsume Soseki's novel "Botchan" is published; the story is set in Matsuyama, bringing the city nationwide fame.

20th and 21st Centuries

• 1945: During World War II, the city suffers from bombing raids, which damage several historical buildings, including parts of the castle structures.
• 1966: A large-scale post-war restoration of the Matsuyama Castle complex begins, helping to restore its historical appearance.
• 2000: Matsuyama is designated a Core City of Japan, confirming its important role in the Shikoku region.

Key Stages of Matsuyama's Development

The history of Matsuyama is a journey from a feudal fortress to a modern cultural and economic hub of Shikoku Island. The city has undergone several significant transformations, each leaving a deep mark on its appearance and character.

• Foundation of the Castle Town (Early 17th Century)
  The key event was the construction of Matsuyama Castle, begun in 1602 by daimyo Kato Yoshiaki. This marked the beginning of the formation of a jokamachi (castle town), which became the administrative, military, and economic core of the region. Districts for samurai, artisans, and merchants grew around the castle, defining the urban structure for centuries to come.
• Acquisition of City Status (1889)
  As part of the Meiji reforms aimed at modernising Japan, Matsuyama officially received city status. This step marked the transition from a feudal structure to a modern municipal management system and facilitated further integration into the national economy.
• Construction of Dogo Onsen Honkan (1894)
  The erection of the new main building for Japan's oldest hot springs, Dogo Onsen, was a turning point for Matsuyama's cultural and tourism life. The unique three-story wooden building not only turned the resort into a landmark of national scale but also became a symbol of the city, rumoured to have inspired the creators of the anime "Spirited Away".
• "Literary Capital" (Late 19th – Early 20th Century)
  Matsuyama became a centre of literary life thanks to the poet Masaoka Shiki, a reformer of the haiku genre, and the writer Natsume Soseki. Soseki's novel "Botchan", the action of which unfolds in Matsuyama, brought the city all-Japan fame and forever linked its image with literature.
• Development of Transport Infrastructure
  The creation of a railway network, including one of Japan's first private railways "Iyotetsu" (1888), and the launch of tram services radically changed the city's economy. The appearance of convenient transport routes promoted the growth of trade, industry, and the influx of tourists, strengthening Matsuyama's connection with other parts of the island and the country.
• Post-War Recovery and Growth (Second Half of the 20th Century)
  Despite parts of the city suffering from bombing during World War II, Matsuyama was able to recover quickly. In 1966, a large-scale restoration of the castle complex began. The post-war economic boom in Japan contributed to industrial development and population growth.
• Designation as a Core City (2000)
  In 2000, Matsuyama received the status of a "Core City" of Japan. This officially cemented its role as the leading administrative, economic, and cultural centre of Ehime Prefecture and the entire island of Shikoku, granting the city expanded powers in governance.

The architectural appearance of Matsuyama is a visual history of the city, harmoniously combining the power of the feudal era, the elegance of the Meiji era, and the pragmatism of modernity. Urban development progressed from a classic castle town (jokamachi), centred on the hilltop castle, to a modern administrative hub with developed infrastructure.

Feudal Era (Edo Period, 1603–1868): Castle Architecture

The foundation of Matsuyama's urban planning was Matsuyama Castle, erected in the early 17th century. It is an outstanding example of Japanese defensive architecture. Its location on the summit of Mount Katsuyama defined the radial structure of the city, where districts for samurai, craftsmen, and merchants were located at the foot of the hill. The architecture of the castle represents a complex system of walls, gates, and multi-tiered towers designed for maximum protection. It is a classic example of military-feudal architecture of that time, where functionality prevailed over decoration.

Era of Modernisation (Meiji and Taisho Periods, 1868–1926): A Blend of Styles

With the opening of Japan to the world, Western motifs began to appear in Matsuyama's architecture, blending with traditional Japanese techniques. The brightest examples of this period are:

• Dogo Onsen Honkan (1894): The main building of Japan's oldest hot springs is a masterpiece of Meiji era architecture. The three-story wooden structure with an intricate layout resembling a labyrinth is crowned by a tower with a drum that beats the time. Its style combines traditional Japanese elements, reminiscent of castle or temple architecture, with ideas of public space that were new for that time.
• Bansuiso Villa (1922): This is a luxurious mansion in the French Renaissance style, built for a descendant of the Matsudaira clan, Count Sadakoto Hisamatsu. The building, designed after the Count's long stay in France, became a meeting place for high society and stands in stark contrast to traditional Japanese buildings. Today, it is an important cultural monument demonstrating the fascination with European architecture during the Taisho period.

Post-War Period and Modernity (Since 1945): Modernism and Functionality

Like many Japanese cities, Matsuyama suffered from bombing raids during World War II, which led to the destruction of part of the historical centre. The subsequent reconstruction shaped the modern look of the city, characterised by functional concrete and glass buildings, wide streets, and modern commercial districts. However, unlike many metropolises, Matsuyama has managed to preserve a cosy atmosphere, largely thanks to the preservation of historical landmarks such as the castle and the Dogo Onsen district, as well as the convenient tram network operating since pre-war times. Modern projects, such as the Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum building, designed by the famous architect Tadao Ando, add examples of minimalist modernist architecture to the cityscape.

The city of Matsuyama and Ehime Prefecture have gifted Japan and the world many talented individuals who have left a significant mark on history and culture. Their legacy lives on in literature, military affairs, and even religion.

Masaoka Shiki (1867–1902)

• Role: Poet, literary critic, journalist.
• Significance: Considered one of the four great masters of haiku, alongside Basho, Buson, and Issa. He was born in Matsuyama and spent his youth here. He reformed the haiku and tanka genres, breathing new life into them during the Meiji era. His work continues to define the cultural identity of the city, which is known as the "Haiku Capital".

Natsume Soseki (1867–1916)

• Role: Writer, novelist.
• Significance: One of the founders of modern Japanese literature. Although Soseki was not a native of Matsuyama, he taught English here. This experience formed the basis of his famous autobiographical novel "Botchan", which brought the city fame across the entire country.

Akiyama Yoshifuru (1859–1930) and Akiyama Saneyuki (1868–1918)

• Role: Military figures.
• Significance: The Akiyama brothers, born in Matsuyama, became national heroes following the Russo-Japanese War. Yoshifuru is considered the "father" of the modern Japanese cavalry, while Saneyuki was a brilliant naval strategist. Their lives are the subject of the popular historical novel "Clouds Above the Hill" (Saka no Ue no Kumo) by Ryotaro Shiba, making them some of the city's most famous natives.

Ippen (1239–1289)

• Role: Buddhist monk, preacher.
• Significance: Founder of the Ji-shu Buddhist school ("Time Sect"). Born in Iyo Province (modern-day Ehime). Ippen became famous as a "wandering saint" who travelled throughout Japan, spreading teachings about salvation through the repetition of the Buddha Amida's name and introducing ecstatic dances into practice.

Kenzaburo Oe (1935–2023)

• Role: Writer, essayist.
• Significance: Winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1994. He was born in a village in Ehime Prefecture and attended school in Matsuyama. In his works, Oe often addressed themes of life in the Japanese countryside, humanism, and the consequences of war, creating a unique artistic world closely linked to his homeland.

Juzo Itami (1933–1997)

• Role: Film director, screenwriter, actor.
• Significance: One of the most significant Japanese film directors of the late 20th century, known for his satirical comedies such as "Tampopo". He spent his youth in Matsuyama and was the brother-in-law of writer Kenzaburo Oe. His films boldly explored the unsightly sides of Japanese society, which brought him both fame and trouble with the Yakuza.