The history of Miyajima (historically known as Itsukushima) is inextricably linked to the spiritual traditions of Japan. According to chronicles, the island's first shrine was founded in 593 AD by Saeki no Kuramoto, a local governor, during the reign of Empress Suiko. From the earliest times, the entire island was venerated as a kami (deity), making it sacred territory where access for common people was strictly limited.
Key Factors in Its Development
Miyajima's transformation from a secluded sacred site into a major cultural center occurred during the Heian period (794–1185). This was facilitated by several key circumstances:
Political Patronage: In 1168, the powerful military leader and politician Taira no Kiyomori chose Itsukushima as the ancestral shrine for the Taira clan. Thanks to his influence and funding, the complex was rebuilt into the majestic form known today.
Geographical Location: Its position in the Seto Inland Sea (Setonaikai) made the island an important point on the maritime routes connecting the western regions of the country with the ancient capital of Kyoto.
Religious Syncretism: In addition to Shintoism, the island became important to Buddhists after the monk Kukai founded a temple on Mount Misen in the 9th century, which increased the flow of pilgrims.
Early Cultural and Economic Characteristics
The lifestyle on Miyajima was shaped by strict religious taboos designed to preserve the ritual purity of the island-god:
Prohibition of Defilement: Historically, neither births nor deaths were permitted on the island. Pregnant women and the terminally ill were moved to the mainland, and burials on Miyajima itself were forbidden.
Architectural Adaptation: The famous "floating" shrine and torii gate were built on stilts in the tidal zone. This solution allowed for the creation of a sanctuary that technically did not touch the island's sacred soil.
Pilgrimage Economy: The settlement's economy developed exclusively around servicing the temple complex and hosting noble pilgrims from the Imperial Court and the aristocracy.
Timeline
Major Milestones in Miyajima's History
593: Saeki no Kuramoto founds the first Itsukushima Shrine, marking the beginning of the island's veneration as a sacred site.
806: The famous monk Kukai (Kobo Daishi) visits the island and establishes the Daisho-in Buddhist temple at the foot of Mount Misen.
1168: Military leader Taira no Kiyomori funds a massive reconstruction of the shrine, creating the famous complex on stilts over the water.
1555: The Battle of Itsukushima takes place, in which the Mori clan uses strategy to defeat the Sue clan; this remains the only major historical battle on the sacred land.
1587: Toyotomi Hideyoshi orders the construction of the massive Senjokaku Hall (Pavilion of a Thousand Tatami Mats), which ultimately remains unfinished.
1643: Confucian scholar Hayashi Razan includes Miyajima in the "Three Views of Japan" list (Nihon Sankei).
1875: The current Great Torii Gate, the eighth of its kind, is built from camphor wood, becoming the island's primary symbol.
1923: The entire island is officially designated by the Japanese government as a historical landmark and a site of scenic beauty.
1934: Miyajima becomes part of Setonaikai National Park, the country's first national park.
1996: Itsukushima Shrine and its surrounding buffer zone are included in the UNESCO World Heritage list.
2022: A large-scale restoration of the Great Torii Gate, which lasted over three years, is ceremoniously completed.
Milestones
Key Stages of Development and Transformation
Miyajima's history is a journey from a closed sacred space to a center of international tourism. Here are the main milestones that defined the modern appearance and lifestyle of the island:
The Taira Clan’s Architectural Revolution (12th Century):
Taira no Kiyomori's decision to rebuild the shrine in the shinden-zukuri palatial style on stilts was an urban planning breakthrough. This not only created the city's unique silhouette but also established an engineering strategy for building in tidal zones, allowing the island's natural landscape to remain virtually untouched.
Formation of the Monzen-machi (Edo Period, 1603–1868):
During an era of peace and the growth of domestic trade, a full-fledged town (monzen-machi) grew around the temple. The emergence of inns, souvenir shops, and tea houses to serve pilgrims laid the foundation for the island's economic model, which remains based on hospitality to this day.
Inclusion in the "Three Views of Japan" (1643):
The inclusion of the island in the Nihon Sankei list by the Confucian scholar Hayashi Razan was a powerful cultural and promotional boost. This event established Miyajima's status as a must-visit destination for the educated classes, stimulating an influx of travelers from across the country.
Meiji Religious Reform (Late 19th Century):
The policy of separating Shintoism and Buddhism (shinbutsu bunri) led to significant cultural changes. Many Buddhist elements were removed from Itsukushima Shrine, and the management of religious sites was divided, forming the modern structure of the island's attractions.
National Park Status (1934):
Miyajima's inclusion in the first Setonaikai National Park legally limited urbanization. This decision prevented industrial development of the coast, preserving the ecological balance and the traditional view of the town amidst the rapid industrialization of the Hiroshima region.
Global UNESCO Recognition (1996):
Attaining World Heritage status reoriented the economy toward international tourism. This required infrastructure modernization (reconstruction of the ferry terminal, improved navigation) and the introduction of strict heritage protection regulations, making Miyajima one of Japan’s best-preserved historical settlements.
Architecture
Urban Planning Concept: The Sanctuary Island
The architectural landscape of Miyajima is unique because it developed under strict religious restrictions. Since the ground was considered the body of a deity, the architecture had to harmonize with the natural landscape without disturbing it. Urban planning here is dictated by the coastline and topography: the main structures face the sea, while residential buildings (which appeared much later) are neatly tucked into the narrow strip between the beach and the forested mountains.
Eras and Architectural Styles
The island's structures represent a living encyclopedia of traditional Japanese architecture, where every period has left its iconic mark.
Heian Period (794–1185): Shinden-zukuri Palatial Style
This was Miyajima's "Golden Age," which defined its identity. The primary style is shinden-zukuri (the architectural style of aristocratic sleeping palaces). Characteristic features include long wooden galleries connecting pavilions, cypress bark roofs, and elevated structures built over the ground (or, in this case, over the water). This style emphasizes lightness, symmetry, and a connection with nature.
Iconic landmark:Itsukushima Shrine. Its famous lacquered columns and open walkways create the illusion of floating during high tide.
Muromachi Period (1336–1573): A Blend of Japanese and Chinese Styles
During this period, the influence of Zen Buddhism and continental architecture grew stronger. Styles became more vertical and decorative, featuring complex bracket systems and curved roofs.
Iconic landmark:The Five-Story Pagoda (Goju-no-to), built in 1407. It combines the Japanese style (Wayo) with elements of the Chinese Tang Dynasty style (Zenshuyo), visible in the elegant curve of the eaves and the rich interior paintings.
Azuchi-Momoyama Period (1573–1603): Monumentalism
The era of Japan's great unifiers brought a desire for grand scales and powerful structures designed to demonstrate authority. Buildings became massive, featuring open floor plans.
Iconic landmark:Senjokaku Hall ("Pavilion of a Thousand Tatami Mats"). This is a massive wooden structure with open walls, commissioned by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Its unfinished state and the raw beauty of its powerful beams contrast with the refinement of Itsukushima Shrine.
Edo Period (1603–1868): Monzen-machi Style (Temple Town)
With the rise of mass pilgrimage, a residential and commercial district began to take shape. This area is dominated by machiya (traditional townhouses). It features dense wooden construction with latticed facades, tiled roofs, and narrow fronts facing the shopping street.
Iconic district:Omotesando Street. This commercial artery has preserved the atmosphere of old Japan, where souvenir shops and ryokans (inns) form a unified ensemble.
Current State
In the 20th and 21st centuries, the city's development has been strictly regulated by cultural heritage preservation laws. New buildings (hotels, the ferry terminal) are constructed with traditional aesthetics in mind, using natural materials and a restrained color palette to avoid distracting from the historical landmarks.
Notable People
Historical Figures and Patrons
The history of Miyajima is inextricably linked with the names of great rulers, monks, and commanders whose decisions shaped the fate of the sacred island.
Saeki no Kuramoto (6th Century) Local ruler, founder of the shrine
According to chronicles, it was he who in 593 (the first year of Empress Suiko's reign) received a divine revelation and established the first Itsukushima temple, marking the beginning of the island's veneration as sacred territory.
Kukai (Kobo Daishi) (774–835) Great Buddhist monk, founder of the Shingon school
In 806, he visited the island and, recognizing its spiritual power, founded the Daisho-in Temple and other retreats on Mount Misen. Legend has it that he lit a sacred fire that has been kept burning by monks for over 1,200 years.
Taira no Kiyomori (1118–1181) Head of the Taira clan, statesman
The primary patron in the island's history. In 1168, he initiated and funded a massive reconstruction of the shrine, creating the famous complex on stilts over the water. Thanks to his influence, the local temple became a site of pilgrimage for the Imperial Court.
Mori Motonari (1497–1571) Daimyo, outstanding strategist of the Sengoku period
A central figure in the "Battle of Itsukushima" (1555). He achieved a brilliant victory over the superior forces of the Sue clan by utilizing the island's terrain and a surprise night attack during a storm, which solidified his power over the Chugoku region.
Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537–1598) Unifier of Japan, ruler (Taiko)
In 1587, he ordered the construction of the grand Senjokaku Hall ("Pavilion of a Thousand Tatami Mats") for the chanting of Buddhist sutras in memory of fallen warriors. The ruler's death halted construction, leaving the building an unfinished but majestic monument to the era.
Hayashi Razan (1583–1657) Confucian philosopher and scholar
In 1643, while traveling through the country, he included Miyajima in his famous "Nihon Sankei" list (The Three Views of Japan). This literary recognition made the island an essential destination for the intellectual elite of the time.
Ito Hirobumi (1841–1909) Japan's first Prime Minister
A frequent visitor to the island during the Meiji era. He contributed to the development of Momijidani Park and, according to popular local legend, it was his comment about the shape of maple leaves that inspired local confectioners to create the island's signature souvenir—"momiji-manju" cakes.