Rishiri history

Etymology and First Mentions

The history of Rishiri is inextricably linked with the indigenous people of northern Japan — the Ainu. The name of the town and the island itself comes from the Ainu phrase "Ri-sir," which translates as "high island." This name was given in honour of the majestic Rishiri volcano, which dominates the landscape and is visible from afar.

Although permanent Japanese settlements began to form here predominantly during the Edo and Meiji eras, the territory was known and inhabited long before that. The first mentions in Japanese chronicles are connected with the establishment of trading posts by the Matsumae clan, who controlled trade with the Ainu in northern Hokkaido.

Key Factors of Formation

The transformation of Rishiri from a remote point on the map into an important settlement was driven by several factors:

• Geographical Landmark: Mount Rishiri (often called Rishiri-Fuji) served as a natural lighthouse for mariners in the turbulent northern waters, guiding ships to the island's shores.
• Marine Resources: The incredible abundance of fish and seafood in the coastal waters became the main magnet for the first colonists and seasonal workers.
• Trade Routes: The development of "Kitamaebune" (northern trade ship) routes allowed for the export of valuable resources to the central part of Japan.

Early Economy and Culture

The economic foundation of Rishiri was laid thanks to two key resources: Pacific herring and kelp (kombu). In the 19th and early 20th centuries, a true "herring boom" was observed here, which contributed to an influx of population and the construction of infrastructure, including characteristic warehouses and estates of fishery owners.

The region's culture was formed as a fusion of the traditions of the indigenous Ainu and Japanese settlers from the south. A special place in history is occupied by the harvesting of Rishiri-kombu — a high-quality seaweed that was highly valued in Kyoto and Osaka, becoming a hallmark of local trade long before the advent of modern tourism.

Major Milestones in the History of Rishiri

• 17th Century — The Matsumae clan establishes trading posts on the island to exchange goods with the indigenous Ainu population.
• 1808 — Founding of the Itsukushima Shrine in the Kutsugata district, considered one of the oldest spiritual centres on the island.
• 1876 — Opening of the first administrative offices, marking the beginning of official Japanese governance of the territory.
• 1890s — The heyday of the Pacific herring fishery, attracting thousands of seasonal workers and settlers to the island.
• 1899 — The settlements of Kutsugata and Senhoshi receive the status of independent villages, separating from administrative management on Rebun Island.
• 1902 — Introduction of the official municipal system, consolidating the status of the settlements.
• 1949 — The end of the era of mass herring fishing due to resource depletion and the reorientation of the economy towards harvesting sea kelp and sea urchins.
• 1956 — Formation of the modern town of Rishiri through the merger of Kutsugata town and Senhoshi village.
• 1962 — Opening of Rishiri Airport, which significantly simplified transport connections with Hokkaido.
• 1974 — The territory of the island is included in the Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park, giving impetus to the development of tourism.
• 1999 — Large-scale celebration of the 100th anniversary since the founding of the local administration.
• 2011 — Rishiri Island is officially included in the Japanese Geoparks Network thanks to its unique volcanic landscape.

Key Stages of Rishiri's Development

The history of the town is a journey from a seasonal fishing base to a significant tourist and ecological centre of Hokkaido. Major development milestones defined the modern appearance and economy of Rishiri.

• The "Golden Herring" Era (Late 19th – Early 20th Centuries)
  The period of mass Pacific herring fishing became the foundation of the economy. Super-profits from fishing allowed for the erection of the first solid structures, warehouses, and roads, forming the historical architectural look of the coastal districts.
• Administrative Self-Determination (1899–1902)
  The separation of the Kutsugata and Senhoshi settlements from the administration of the neighbouring Rebun Island kickstarted the development of local self-government. This allowed taxes to be directed specifically towards the needs of the island's residents, such as building schools and medical centres.
• Urban Consolidation (1956)
  The merger of the town of Kutsugata and the village of Senhoshi into the single town of Rishiri. Pooling resources allowed for the optimisation of municipal infrastructure and the creation of a unified development strategy for the western and southern parts of the island.
• Transport Breakthrough (1962)
  The opening of Rishiri Airport was a turning point that partially solved the problem of isolation. Air travel opened the way for the rapid delivery of delicacies (sea urchins) to Tokyo markets and ensured an influx of tourists.
• Change of Economic Course (1974)
  The inclusion of the territory in the Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park marked the transition from a purely extraction-based economy to a service economy. Active development of hiking trails, campsites, and observation decks around the volcano began.
• Modernisation of Marine Gateways (Late 20th Century)
  The reconstruction of Kutsugata Port and the launch of modern Heart Land Ferry vessels ensured a reliable and comfortable connection with Wakkanai, which is critical for town supplies and passenger traffic.
• Scientific and Cultural Recognition (2011)
  Designation as a Japanese Geopark. This event drew attention to the geological uniqueness of the island, stimulating the development of educational tourism and nature conservation programmes.

Architectural Character and Environmental Adaptation

The architectural appearance of Rishiri is an example of a purely utilitarian approach, dictated by the harsh climate of the Sea of Japan and geographical isolation. You will not find European Gothic or Baroque here. The history of the town's construction is an evolution from temporary wooden fishermen's huts to solid reinforced concrete structures capable of withstanding storm winds and heavy snowfall.

Urban planning is completely subordinate to the island's dominant feature — the Rishiri volcano. All settlements stretch in a narrow strip along the coast, forming a ring-like development structure around the mountain.

Main Architectural Eras and Styles

Several key layers reflecting economic periods of development can be distinguished in the town's appearance:

• Meiji and Taisho Era (Traditional Wooden Architecture):
  The heyday of herring fishing left behind few but colourful examples. These are wooden buildings with elements of traditional Japanese architecture.
  Characteristic features: Use of local wood, pitched roofs for snow shedding, simple geometric shapes.
• Showa Era (Functional Modernism):
  The post-war period and the time of the town's administrative formation (from the 1950s). Wood gave way to concrete for fire safety and thermal insulation.
  Characteristic features: Laconic concrete boxes of administrative buildings, schools, and hospitals. Lack of decoration, emphasis on durability and protection against corrosion caused by sea air.
• Modern Period (Eco-style and Minimalism):
  New tourist facilities and updated port infrastructure strive to harmonise with nature.
  Characteristic features: Use of glass for panoramic views of the sea and volcano, application of natural finishing materials, integration of buildings into the landscape.

Iconic Structures and Districts

Although Rishiri is a small town, there are objects here that form its visual code:

• Itsukushima Shrine (Kutsugata District): A striking example of Shinto shrine architecture. The characteristic curved roofs and Torii gates serve as a cultural anchor for the district and a reminder of the first settlers.
• Kutsugata Port Ferry Terminal: The modern "sea gateway" of the town. This functional building is the centre of transport life, combining waiting halls and commercial zones.
• Fishermen's Warehouses and Buildings: Along the coastline, especially in the Senhoshi area, one can find preserved utility structures reminiscent of the "herring boom" times. They create a special atmosphere of a port town.

Urban Development

The layout of Rishiri is linear. The main transport artery — the island's ring road — serves as the "spine" of the town. Residential quarters and commercial properties are threaded onto this road, while the administrative centre (Kutsugata) has a denser, almost urban development with a street grid, whereas peripheral areas (Senhoshi) retain a sparse rural structure.

Notable Figures in the History of Rishiri

Despite its modest size and remoteness, Rishiri has attracted the attention of famous explorers, adventurers, and artists. Their names are forever inscribed in the island's chronicle.

• Ranald MacDonald (1824–1894)
  Adventurer, first English teacher in Japan
  One of the most fascinating figures in the history of Japanese-American relations. In 1848, he intentionally landed on Rishiri Island (in the area of the current settlement), pretending to be a shipwreck survivor, in order to penetrate Japan, which was closed to foreigners. His arrival became an important milestone in the history of opening the country, and a monument has been erected on the island in his honour.
• Matsuura Takeshiro (1818–1888)
  Explorer, cartographer, writer
  The man who gave Hokkaido its name. In the Edo era, he conducted detailed surveys of Rishiri, documenting the geography, flora, and customs of the indigenous Ainu people. His diaries and maps serve as an invaluable source of knowledge about what the island looked like before active colonisation began.
• Kyuya Fukada (1903–1971)
  Writer, mountaineer
  Author of the famous anthology "100 Famous Japanese Mountains". By including Mount Rishiri in this prestigious list (at number 1), he effectively determined the town's tourism destiny. Thanks to his choice, the island became a destination for thousands of climbers and trekking enthusiasts from all over the country.
• Nitta Jiro (1912–1980)
  Writer, meteorologist
  A famous Japanese novelist who wrote the work "Rishiri-Fuji". His book gave the mountain a romantic and even mystical aura, inspiring many travellers to see the "floating peak" with their own eyes.
• Saito Mokichi (1882–1953)
  Tanka poet, psychiatrist
  One of the greatest poets of modern Japan visited Rishiri and was struck by its stark northern beauty. He left behind a cycle of poems dedicated to the island. Today, in picturesque places around the town, one can find stone steles with the poet's lines carved into them.