Tsushima history

Foundation and First Mentions

The history of Tsushima is rooted in deep antiquity, long before it received its modern administrative status as a city. Archaeological finds indicate that people inhabited this archipelago as early as the Jomon period. In written sources, Tsushima first appears in Chinese chronicles of the 3rd century (the Records of Wei), where it is described as a vital link on the sea route between the Korean Peninsula and Japan.

According to Japanese mythology recorded in the ancient treatise Kojiki, Tsushima was one of the first eight islands created by the deities Izanagi and Izanami, highlighting its sacred significance to Japanese culture from the very earliest stages of statehood.

Key Factors of Development

The development of Tsushima was defined by its unique strategic position in the Korea Strait. In effect, the island became Japan's "gateway" to the outside world.

• Geography as Destiny: Located roughly halfway between the island of Kyushu and the continent, Tsushima inevitably became a transit point for human migration, the transfer of technology, and the exchange of cultural ideas (including Buddhism and writing systems) to the Japanese archipelago.
• Political Role: As early as the 7th century, following the introduction of the Ritsuryo system, Tsushima was granted the status of a separate province. Due to its proximity to the border, sakimori—border guards conscripted to defend the country—were stationed here.
• Diplomacy: Historically, local rulers acted as intermediaries in negotiations and trade between the Japanese imperial court and Korean dynasties.

Early Cultural and Economic Features

The economy of early Tsushima took shape amidst a challenging landscape. Since mountains occupy nearly 90% of the territory, traditional Japanese wet-rice cultivation was extremely difficult here. This shaped a distinct lifestyle for the islanders:

• Trade as a Necessity: The well-being of the population depended directly on barter trade. Tsushima exchanged its resources and acted as a logistics hub to obtain rice and textiles.
• Maritime Industry: Fishing, salt production, and the harvesting of seafood became the foundation of economic activity and the diet of local residents.
• Cultural Synthesis: Thanks to the constant flow of merchants and diplomats, a distinctive culture formed early on the island, organically combining Japanese traditions with elements of continental influence.

Antiquity and Middle Ages

• Year 667: Construction of the mountain fortress Kaneda (Kaneda Castle) on Mount Joyama, which became a vital defensive point for ancient Japan.
• Year 701: With the introduction of the Taiho Code, Tsushima officially receives the status of a separate province (Tsushima-no-kuni).
• Years 1274 and 1281: The island finds itself at the centre of historical events during the Mongol invasions, serving as the archipelago's first line of defence.
• Late 14th Century: The So clan asserts its authority over the island, becoming hereditary rulers and key figures in trade.

Edo Period and Diplomatic Development

• Year 1609: Signing of the Treaty of Kiyu with the Joseon Dynasty, which officially cemented Tsushima's role as a trade intermediary between Japan and Korea.
• 17th–19th Centuries: The island serves as the main reception point for Korean diplomatic missions (Joseon Tongsinsa), facilitating cultural exchange.
• Year 1861: The incident with the Russian corvette Posadnik, the peaceful resolution of which confirmed the importance of the island's diplomatic status.

Modern Era and Contemporary Times

• Year 1871: During the Meiji Restoration and the abolition of the han system, Izuhara Prefecture is created, which soon became part of Nagasaki Prefecture.
• Year 1905: The historic Battle of Tsushima took place in the surrounding waters; today, memorial monuments stand as reminders of this event.
• Year 1975: Opening of Tsushima Airport, which significantly improved transport accessibility to the island for travellers.
• Year 2004: Six towns on the island (Izuhara, Mitsushima, Toyotama, Mine, Kamiagata, and Kamitsushima) merged to form the modern city of Tsushima.

Stages of Development and Urban Transformation

The modern appearance of Tsushima is the result of a combination of centuries-old traditions and large-scale infrastructure projects. The city's development proceeded not only through changing eras but also through specific urban planning and cultural transformations that today shape the island's appeal to tourists.

• Formation of the Izuhara Castle Town: During the Edo period, the Izuhara district (now the city's administrative centre) was rebuilt as a classic castle town ("jokamachi"). The residence of the So clan—Kaneishi Castle—was erected here, and a samurai residence district was established. The stone walls and gates of that time still define the architectural character of the city centre.
• Construction of the Manzeki Canal (1900): A grand engineering project that forever changed the geography of the island. An artificial strait divided Tsushima into northern and southern parts, connecting Aso Bay with the open sea. Originally created for military purposes, today the canal and the Manzeki Bridge spanning it are a vital transport artery and a scenic landmark.
• Creation of the Iki-Tsushima Quasi-National Park (1968): Being granted this status was a turning point for reorienting the economy from pure industry to eco-tourism. This decision allowed for the preservation of unique primeval forests and the ria-style coastline, making nature the region's main tourism asset.
• Modernisation of Port Infrastructure: The development of the ports of Izuhara (in the south) and Hitakatsu (in the north) transformed the city into a modern logistics hub. Regular ferry services not only connect the island with Fukuoka but also ensure an international flow of tourists from Busan, South Korea, which has significantly revitalised local trade and the service sector.
• UNESCO Memory of the World Recognition (2017): The inclusion of historical documents related to Korean missions in the UNESCO "Memory of the World" register strengthened Tsushima's status as a city of international diplomacy. This event stimulated the development of cultural festivals, including annual historical reenactments of processions that attract thousands of spectators.

Architectural Appearance and Urban Planning

The architecture of Tsushima is a unique chronicle carved in stone and wood. Unlike metropolises with high-rise developments, urban planning here has for centuries been governed by two factors: the complex mountainous terrain and the strategic necessity of border defence. The city developed not outwards, but along river valleys and sea bays, maintaining harmony with nature.

Antiquity and Middle Ages: The Era of Mountain Strongholds

The island's earliest architectural monuments date back to the formative period of the Japanese state and are characterised by a strictly defensive style.

• Style: Ancient Fortification (Korean Style). Characterised by the use of massive stone masonry on mountain peaks to create impregnable fortresses.
• Landmark Object: Ruins of Kaneda Castle. Built in 667, this castle represents a classic example of a yamajiro (mountain castle). Its stone walls, stretching along the ridge of Mount Joyama, demonstrate advanced 7th-century engineering technologies adopted from the continent.

Edo Period (17th–19th Centuries): Flourishing of the Castle Town

During this period, the centre of life shifted to the Izuhara area. Here, the classic layout of a jokamachi—a town surrounding a castle—took shape, where architecture reflected the social hierarchy of samurai society.

• Style: Traditional Japanese Residential Architecture and Stone Masonry. A distinct feature of Tsushima became ishigubei—high walls made of flat stone that protected estates from strong sea winds and fires.
• Landmark Objects:
  • Kaneishi Castle Gate (Yagura-mon Gate): The reconstructed entrance to the So clan residence, demonstrating the power and aesthetics of samurai authority.
  • Bansho-in Temple: The family temple of the So clan. Its famous Hyakugangi staircase, leading to the rulers' cemetery, is surrounded by centuries-old cedars and is a masterpiece of landscape architecture.
  • Samurai Residence District in Izuhara: An area where historical stone walls have been preserved, creating the atmosphere of old Japan.

Meiji and Taisho Periods (Late 19th – Early 20th Centuries): Industrialisation and Defence

With the opening of Japan to the Western world, Tsushima turned into a modern outpost. The architecture of this period is utilitarian, monumental, and often uses brick—a new material for that time.

• Style: Military Modernism and Functionalism. Construction was carried out using Western technologies (red brick, concrete) to create coastal batteries, lighthouses, and canals.
• Landmark Objects:
  • Lighthouse at Cape Tsutsuzaki: An example of early 20th-century engineering thought, combining functionality with the aesthetics of maritime navigation.
  • Ruins of Artillery Batteries (e.g., Toyo): Underground bunkers and caponiers that have today become part of "Heritage of Modernization" tourist routes.

Modernity: Infrastructure Design

In the second half of the 20th and early 21st centuries, Tsushima's appearance has been shaped by engineering structures designed to unite the scattered parts of the archipelago and improve logistics.

• Style: Modern Constructivism. An emphasis on steel and concrete, with concise forms integrated into the seascape.
• Landmark Object: Manzeki Bridge. A bright red arch bridge spanning the man-made canal. It has become not only a vital transport artery but also a visual symbol of the modern city, contrasting with the greenery of the mountains and the blue of the ocean.

Distinguished Personalities

The history of Tsushima is inextricably linked with the names of diplomats, rulers, and educators. Thanks to the island's border location, local figures often played the role of intermediaries between nations, while the harsh nature bred heroes who saved the population from adversity.

Historical Figures and Diplomats

• So Yoshitoshi (1568–1615)
  First Daimyo of the Tsushima-Fuchu Domain.
  A key figure of the So clan that ruled the island. Yoshitoshi played a decisive role in restoring peace and diplomatic relations between Japan and Korea (the Joseon Dynasty) after the devastating Imjin War. His efforts led to the signing of a significant trade treaty, ensuring Tsushima's prosperity in the Edo period.
• Amenomori Hoshu (1668–1755)
  Confucian Scholar and Diplomat.
  A prominent thinker who served as an advisor to the So clan. He became famous for his approach to international relations, formulating the principle of "Singi" (sincerity and trust) in dealings with neighbours. Hoshu was fluent in Korean and Chinese, making him an indispensable participant in diplomatic missions.
• So Takeyuki (1908–1985)
  Count, Poet, English Scholar.
  Head of the House of So in the 20th century. Known not only as an aristocrat and intellectual but also as the husband of Princess Deokhye—the last princess of the Korean Empire. Their story is an important, albeit dramatic, page in the chronicle of the region's cultural ties.

Reformers and Modern Celebrities

• Suyama Totsuan (1657–1732)
  Agronomist and Economic Reformer.
  A true folk hero of Tsushima. Faced with the problem of rice shortages and raids by wild boars, he introduced the cultivation of sweet potatoes (yams), known here as "koko-imo", to the island. This initiative literally saved the population from famine, for which Totsuan is honoured in local shrines.
• MISIA (born 1978)
  Singer and Songwriter.
  One of the most popular Japanese performers in the R&B genre, possessing a unique voice with a five-octave range. A native of the region (she spent her childhood on Tsushima), she actively maintains ties with her homeland and participates in social projects, bringing fame to the island on the modern stage.