Fez history

At the Source of Imperial Grandeur

The history of the city of Fez begins in the late 8th century, when these lands became the core of the formation of Moroccan statehood. Its birth is inextricably linked with the Idrisid dynasty, who saw in this green valley the ideal location for a new capital.

Foundation and Unification of the Banks

The uniqueness of the origins of Fez lies in its "double" birth. The first settlement, Madinat Fas, was established by Idris I in 789 on the eastern bank of the river. Twenty years later, in 809, his son Idris II founded the district of Al-Aliya on the opposite bank. For a long time, these two parts existed as separate rival cities until they were finally united by fortress walls into a single metropolis in the 11th century.

Key Factors of Prosperity

• Strategic Geography: The city is situated in the fertile Saïss Plain, at the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. The abundance of water sources from the Oued Fes (Fez River) provided residents with drinking water and allowed for the development of a complex irrigation system, which was a rarity for the arid regions of Morocco.
• Control over Trade: Fez occupied an advantageous position at the crossroads of ancient caravan routes. It became a crucial transit point for merchants carrying gold and salt from the Sahara to the Mediterranean Sea, and goods from Europe into the depths of Africa.
• Political Will: Its status as the first Islamic capital of the region attracted the elite, administrative apparatus, and troops, ensuring security and stable growth.

Early Culture and Economy

The economic and cultural foundation of the city was laid by two massive waves of immigration in the 9th century, which defined the structure of the medina for centuries to come:

• Andalusian Influence: Refugees from Cordoba (Muslim Spain) settled on the eastern bank. They brought with them advanced technologies in leather, silk, and ceramic processing, as well as sophisticated architecture and music.
• Kairouan Heritage: Settlers from Kairouan (modern-day Tunisia) established themselves on the western bank. Their contribution lay in the development of trade, theology, and science. It was thanks to them that the famous Al-Qarawiyyin University was founded.

Key Dates in the History of Fez

The history of Fez is a kaleidoscope of eras and dynasties, each leaving its mark on the appearance and culture of the city. From its foundation to the present day, the city has experienced periods of prosperity and decline, served as the capital of powerful empires, and existed as a quiet provincial centre.

• 789 — Foundation of the city by Idris I on the eastern bank of the Fez River, marking the beginning of the history of one of Morocco's greatest imperial cities.
• 809 — The founder's son, Idris II, establishes a new city called Al-Aliya on the opposite bank of the river and moves the capital here.
• 859 — Foundation of the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University, which is considered today one of the oldest continuously operating higher education institutions in the world.
• 11th Century — Under the Almoravid dynasty, the two parts of the city existing on different banks were united into a single entity.
• 1248 — Fez becomes the capital under the Marinid dynasty, marking the beginning of its "Golden Age".
• 1276 — The Marinids found a new district, Fes el-Jdid ("New Fez"), moving their palace and administrative centre there.
• 14th Century — The city reaches the apogee of its development under the Marinids, becoming the leading scientific, religious, and cultural centre of the Maghreb.
• 1465 — Fall of the Marinid dynasty and transfer of power to the Wattasid dynasty, leading to a gradual decline in the city's influence.
• 1522 — A severe earthquake partially destroys the city, followed by major reconstruction and the restoration of many buildings.
• 1912 — Signing of the Treaty of Fez, resulting in Morocco becoming a French protectorate, and the capital being moved to Rabat.
• 1956 — Morocco gains independence, and the Treaty of Fez is annulled, opening a new chapter in the modern history of the city.
• 1981 — The Medina of Fez (the old city) is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, recognising its exceptional cultural value.

Stages of Development of Fez: From Capital to Cultural Heritage

The development of Fez is a story of transformations that turned it from a political centre into one of the most important cultural and spiritual symbols of Morocco. Key milestones reflect its urban planning, economic, and cultural changes.

• Foundation and Establishment as an Educational Centre (8th-9th centuries): The city was founded by Idris I in 789, and his son Idris II made it the capital. A key event was the founding of the Al-Qarawiyyin University in 859, which quickly turned Fez into a leading centre of Islamic education and science, attracting scholars from all over the world. This defined the cultural vector of the city's development for many centuries to come.
• "Golden Age" under the Marinids (13th-14th centuries): During this period, Fez once again became the capital and experienced its heyday. The Marinid dynasty launched large-scale construction: the new district of Fes el-Jdid (New Fez) was founded with a royal palace and administrative buildings, and numerous madrasas were erected. This not only changed the face of the city but also strengthened its status as the main political, religious, and commercial centre of the Maghreb.
• Influx of Andalusian and Jewish Settlers (Late 15th century): After the fall of Granada in 1492, the city accepted thousands of Muslim and Jewish refugees from Spain. They brought with them unique knowledge in crafts, architecture, medicine, and science. This gave a new impulse to the economy, enriched the culture, and contributed to the development of crafts such as leather processing and ceramic production, which remain the hallmark of Fez today.
• Transfer of the Capital to Rabat (1912): With the establishment of the French protectorate, the capital of Morocco was moved to Rabat. This event led to the loss of Fez's political significance and a gradual decline in its administrative role. The city began to transform from a political centre into a guardian of history, culture, and traditional crafts.
• Inclusion of the Medina in the UNESCO World Heritage List (1981): The recognition of the historic Medina of Fez as an object of exceptional cultural value was a turning point in its modern history. This status attracted international attention, stimulated the development of tourism, and gave impetus to programmes for preserving the city's unique architectural and cultural heritage.

The architectural appearance of Fez is a unique layering of eras, where every ruler and every period left their mark. The city is broadly divided into three main parts, each representing a distinct stage in its urban history: the medieval medina Fes el-Bali, the later medina Fes el-Jdid, and the French-built Ville Nouvelle (New City).

Early Islamic and Andalusian Periods (9th–12th centuries)

The initial stage of the city's development is associated with the Idrisid dynasty. The urban structure initially consisted of two separate settlements on different banks of the river. The architecture of this time was functional but had already begun to absorb Andalusian motifs thanks to settlers from Cordoba. It was in this era that the Al-Qarawiyyin University (859) was founded, which, through multiple reconstructions, became the heart of the city. The main features of this period are the emergence of a labyrinth of narrow streets and the formation of quarters based on craft and ethnic lines.

"Golden Age" of the Marinid Dynasty (13th–15th centuries)

This period is rightfully considered the pinnacle of Fez's architectural development. The Marinids not only returned the capital status to the city but also launched grandiose construction projects.

• Urban Planning: In 1276, a new district was founded — Fes el-Jdid ("New Fez"), which became the administrative and palace centre. It was built next to the old medina and included the Royal Palace (Dar al-Makhzen) and the Jewish quarter, the Mellah.
• Architectural Style: The Marinid style is the quintessence of Moorish art. It is distinguished by elegance and luxurious decor. Key elements include colourful mosaic tiles known as zellige covering walls and floors, intricate carving on cedar wood and stucco (gypsum), as well as graceful horseshoe arches. The brightest examples of this style are the Bou Inania and Al-Attarine madrasas, striking in the fineness of their finish.

Alaouite Era and Period of Calm (16th–19th centuries)

After the Marinids, the pace of construction slowed. The main focus was not on erecting new monumental complexes, but on restoring existing ones and building residential buildings. During this period, numerous funduqs (caravanserais) and private palace-riads with their characteristic internal courtyard gardens were built. Architecture continued the traditions of previous eras, preserving the Moorish style, but sometimes acquiring more lavish decorative features.

French Protectorate and Ville Nouvelle (20th Century)

With the establishment of the French protectorate in 1912, a new urban planning era began. To the west of the old medinas, the Ville Nouvelle (New City) was built according to the European model. This district differs radically from the historical centre:

• Layout: Wide avenues, boulevards, squares, and public gardens designed according to a clear plan.
• Architectural Styles: Buildings of the protectorate era are executed in Art Deco and Neo-Moorish (Mauresque) styles, where European forms are combined with Moroccan decorative elements: arches, patterns, and tiles.

Thus, Fez represents a living museum of architecture, where the chaotic development of the medieval medina, the strict geometry of the imperial quarter, and the European-planned streets of the New City coexist within a small territory.

Distinguished Figures Associated with Fez

Throughout the centuries, Fez has been a cradle for many outstanding scholars, theologians, rulers, and artists, whose contributions influenced not only the history of Morocco but the entire world. The city attracted talent and became a place where great ideas were born and developed.

• Idris II (791–828) — son of the city's founder Idris I and the de facto creator of Fez in its current form. He moved the capital to a new site on the riverbank, united Morocco under the banner of Islam, and laid the foundations for transforming the city into a thriving political and cultural centre. His mausoleum in Fez is one of the most revered shrines in the country.
• Fatima al-Fihri (9th Century) — a legendary woman credited with founding the Al-Qarawiyyin educational complex in 859, considered the oldest continuously operating university in the world. Thanks to her initiative, Fez became a leading centre of knowledge for many centuries, attracting scholars from across the Islamic world.
• Maimonides (Moshe ben Maimon) (1138–1204) — one of the greatest Jewish philosophers, physicians, and scholars of the Middle Ages. During the period of persecution by the Almohads, he spent several years in Fez (approximately from 1160 to 1165), where he studied sciences at Al-Qarawiyyin University and wrote some of his significant works.
• Ibn Khaldun (1332–1406) — a prominent Arab historian, sociologist, and philosopher, considered one of the founders of modern historiography and sociology. He studied and taught in Fez, and it was here, at the court of the Marinid rulers, that he began work on his magnum opus, the "Muqaddimah" ("The Introduction").
• Leo Africanus (c. 1488 – c. 1554) — an Arab geographer, writer, and diplomat who was educated in Fez. After being captured by Christian pirates, he ended up in Rome, where he wrote his famous work "Description of Africa", which for a long time became the main source of knowledge about the African continent for Europeans.
• Ahmad al-Tijani (1737–1815) — an influential Sufi Sheikh and founder of one of the largest Sufi orders, the Tijaniyya tariqa. He spent the last years of his life in Fez, where he was buried. His mausoleum (zawiya) is an important centre of pilgrimage for his followers from all over Africa.
• Tahar Ben Jelloun (born 1947) — one of the most famous contemporary Moroccan writers, born in Fez. He writes in French and is a laureate of the prestigious Goncourt Prize (1987). His works, often touching on themes of identity, immigration, and Moroccan culture, have been translated into many languages worldwide.