Phrae history

Phrae is one of the oldest cities in Thailand, with a history rooted in ancient times. It is believed that the settlement emerged during the period of influence of the Mon civilization and the Hariphunchai Kingdom, estimated to be between the 7th and 9th centuries. In ancient chronicles, the city is often referred to by the beautiful name Wiang Kosai, which translates as the "City of Silk Cloth." The full establishment of Phrae as a fortified city occurred after it became part of the Lanna Kingdom in the late 13th century. The city was surrounded by fortress walls and a moat, the remains of which can still be seen today, testifying to its important defensive status in those times.

The development of the city was predetermined by several important circumstances that turned it into a significant centre of the region:

• Geography and the Yom River: Phrae is located in the fertile valley of the Yom River. This waterway provided residents with water for rice fields and served as a key transport route connecting the northern regions with the central plains.
• Natural Wealth: The dense teak forests surrounding the city became the foundation of the economy. The extraction and trade of valuable timber attracted merchants and contributed to the prosperity of the region.
• Strategic Location: Located deep within the northern territories, the city served as an important transit point on the trade routes of the ancient Lanna state.

From its early years, the region's economy was based on forestry and crafts. The availability of teak wood gave rise to a unique architectural style: local craftsmen built magnificent wooden temples and residential houses with intricate carvings, many of which have survived to this day. These structures continue to delight travellers with their elegance and durability.

The cultural hallmark of the city became its textile production. Since ancient times, local residents have possessed the secrets of dyeing fabrics with natural dyes. It was here that the tradition of creating Mo Hom clothing originated—famous indigo-dyed cotton shirts, which became a symbol of the Northern Thai style and a recognisable souvenir for visitors to the province.

Key Dates in the History of Phrae

• 828 — According to local chronicles, the city was founded in this year, receiving the name Wiang Kosai ("City of Silk Cloths").
• Late 13th Century — Phrae becomes part of the Lanna Kingdom under the leadership of King Mengrai, becoming an important defensive and trading centre.
• 1443 — King Tilokarat of Chiang Mai strengthens control over the city, using it as a base for expanding the state's borders to the south.
• 1558 — Along with other northern cities, Phrae falls under Burmese rule, marking the beginning of a long period of foreign influence.
• 1770 — The city is liberated from Burmese domination and comes under the protectorate of Siam (Thonburi Kingdom) thanks to the efforts of local leaders and King Taksin.
• Late 19th Century — The "Golden Age" of the teak trade begins; European companies arrive in the city, radically changing the region's economy.
• 1897 — Construction is completed on Khum Chao Luang—the residence of the last ruler of Phrae, which became an architectural masterpiece of the era.
• 1902 — The Ngiao Rebellion (Shan Rebellion) occurs; after its suppression, Bangkok implements administrative reforms, definitively integrating Phrae into Siam's centralised administrative system.
• 1907 — The famous "Pink House" (Vongburi) is erected, a striking example of the blend of European colonial style and Thai architecture.
• 1940s — During World War II, the province becomes one of the strongholds of the "Free Thai" (Seri Thai) resistance movement.

Stages of Phrae's Establishment and Development

The history of Phrae is a journey from a fortified outpost of the Lanna Kingdom to a centre of the timber industry and a modern city that has preserved its unique identity. The key milestones in the city's development can be divided into several significant stages that formed its current appearance:

• Lanna Era Urban Planning. During the kingdom's heyday, the city received its classic oval shape, bounded by fortress walls and earthen ramparts. This not only increased defensive capabilities but also set the structure of the historical centre, which remains to this day, separating the old city from the new districts.
• The "Teak Fever" Era (Late 19th Century). The arrival of European timber companies (particularly British ones) became a powerful economic driver. The export of precious teak wood brought huge capital to the region, which allowed for the modernisation of infrastructure and the creation of jobs.
• Architectural Transformation. Thanks to timber revenues and European influence, a unique "Gingerbread House" style formed in Phrae. The construction of luxurious teak mansions, such as Vongburi and Khum Chao Luang, changed the urban landscape, adding elements of Victorian style to traditional Thai architecture.
• Cultural Influence of the Shan People (Tai Yai). The influx of craftsmen and workers from neighbouring Burma to work in logging enriched the city's cultural environment. This led to the appearance of unique temples in the Burmese style (for example, Wat Chom Sawan), which differ from classic Thai structures with their intricate carvings and multi-tiered roofs.
• Administrative Integration (Early 20th Century). After the rebellion of 1902 and the subsequent reforms of King Rama V, Phrae finally lost the status of a semi-independent principality. The transition to centralised administration from Bangkok contributed to the unification of laws, the development of education, and the integration of the local elite into the national system.
• Development of the "Mo Hom" Textile Brand. The traditional craft of indigo fabric dyeing grew beyond the household level and became the basis of the local economy. Today, Phrae is officially recognised as the centre of Mo Hom clothing production, which attracts tourists and supports local employment.

Architectural Appearance and Urban Planning

The architecture of Phrae represents a unique chronicle captured in teak wood. Unlike many other cities in Thailand, stone and concrete here give way to timber, creating the unique atmosphere of a "living" city. The urban development of Phrae followed a path of integrating ancient defensive traditions with the needs of a trading centre that flourished on timber extraction.

Urban Structure

The layout of the city was formed in the early medieval era and has retained its outlines to this day:

• Oval Shape (Conch Shell): The historical city centre is bounded by ramparts and a moat, forming an almost perfect oval. This shape, resembling a conch shell, was considered auspicious in Lanna culture and believed to promote prosperity.
• Zoning: Inside the walls, administrative buildings and main temples (Wats) were traditionally located. Residential quarters for ordinary citizens and trading zones grew around the fortress walls, especially along the Yom River.

Architectural Styles and Eras

The appearance of Phrae was formed under the influence of three main cultural and historical streams: Lanna traditions, Burmese art, and European colonialism.

• Traditional Lanna Style (12th–19th Centuries)
  Characterised by high multi-tiered roofs with curved edges resembling bird wings, and extensive use of wood. Temples of this period are low-set and harmoniously blended into the landscape.
  Example: Wat Luang — the oldest temple in the city, combining elements of Lanna and Chiang Saen styles.
• Burmese (Shan) Style (Late 19th Century)
  This style was brought by merchants and workers of the Tai Yai (Shan) ethnicity who arrived to work in the timber industry. Distinctive features include complex multi-level roofs made of zinc or wood with rich carvings, high ceilings, and the use of coloured glass in decoration.
  Example: Wat Chom Sawan and Wat Sa Bo Kaeo — vivid examples with exquisite carving and unique bamboo Buddha statues.
• Colonial Style and "Gingerbread Houses" (Late 19th – Early 20th Century)
  The "Teak Boom" era gave rise to a unique style called the "Gingerbread House". This is an adaptation of European Victorian architecture to the tropical climate: houses on stilts for ventilation, spacious verandas, and openwork wooden carving (fretwork) on cornices and window frames. Roofs were often covered with wood rather than tiles.
  Example: Khum Chao Luang (Ruler's Residence) and the Vongburi House.

Iconic Architectural Objects

Several buildings in Phrae are standards of architectural craftsmanship and define the historical landscape of the city:

• Khum Chao Luang: Built in 1897. This monumental two-storey teak building combines a European plan with Thai craftsmanship. A feature of the building is the absence of stilts (the ground floor sits on the earth) and the presence of 72 windows and doors, ensuring cross-ventilation.
• Baan Wong Buri (Vongburi House): Known as the "Pink House". Built in 1907 in a style close to Classicism with elements of Thai decor. The building is distinguished by complex wood carving on the gables and a characteristic double-tiered roof, which contributes to cooling the rooms.

Distinguished Historical Figures of Phrae

The history of Phrae is inextricably linked with the names of rulers, resistance heroes, and cultural figures who shaped the unique character of the province.

• Chao Luang Phiriya Thepphawong
  Role: The last ruler (Prince) of Phrae.
  Significance: Ruled in the late 19th century during the cardinal reforms of King Rama V. It was under him that the famous residence Khum Chao Luang was built. After the Shan Rebellion of 1902, he was forced to go into exile in Luang Prabang, which marked the end of the era of semi-independent feudal rulers in the region.
• Phraya Chaiyabun
  Role: Provincial Governor (representative of the central authority of Siam).
  Significance: Revered as a national hero. During the Ngiao (Shan) uprising in 1902, he refused to surrender the city to the rebels or betray the King of Siam, for which he was executed. A memorial has been erected at the site of his death, and his steadfastness became a symbol of devotion to duty.
• Mae Chao Bua Tha
  Role: Noblewoman, first wife of the last ruler of Phrae.
  Significance: Initiator of the construction of the Vongburi house (the "Pink House"). As an influential figure among the local nobility, she contributed to the preservation of traditions and the development of the city's architectural appearance, combining Thai traditions with the European fashion of that time.
• Phra Maha Then Kanchana
  Role: Buddhist monk, Abbot of Wat Sung Men temple.
  Significance: An outstanding guardian of Lanna culture. In the 19th century, he undertook massive efforts to collect and restore ancient palm-leaf manuscripts, saving them from destruction. Thanks to his labours, Phrae today possesses one of the richest libraries of Buddhist texts in Northern Thailand.
• Chao Wong Saensiriphan
  Role: Politician, Member of Parliament, figure in the "Free Thai" movement.
  Significance: A descendant of the royal dynasty of Phrae who became an influential politician of the democratic era. During World War II, he was a key leader of the anti-Japanese Seri Thai movement in the province, organising partisan operations and aid to the allies.
• Chot Phraephan, known by the pen name Yakhob
  Role: Famous Thai writer and journalist.
  Significance: Grandson of the last ruler of Phrae (son of Prince In-Plaeng Thepphawong). Although he became famous in Bangkok as the author of the monumental historical novel "The Conqueror of Ten Directions", the residents of Phrae honour him as their compatriot who brought fame to the family name in the literary field.