Kars history

City Origins: Guardian of the Eastern Borders

Kars is one of the oldest cities in the region, with a history rooted in deep antiquity. Archaeological findings indicate that people lived here as early as the Paleolithic era; however, Kars began to take shape as a fortified settlement much later, becoming a vital node on the map of the ancient world.

Foundation and First Mentions

The exact date of the city's founding is lost to the centuries, but the region is mentioned in the works of the ancient geographer Strabo under the name Chorzene. There are several versions regarding the origin of the city's name:

• According to one version, the city was named after the Karsak tribe (of Bulgar or Kipchak origin), who arrived here from the North Caucasus in the 2nd century BC.
• The historical flourishing of Kars as a fully-fledged city began in the 9th–10th centuries. In 928, it became the capital of the Bagratid Armenian Kingdom, transforming from a simple fortification into a prosperous political center.

Key Factors of Development

The transformation of Kars into an important city was predetermined by a combination of unique factors:

• Strategic Geography: The city is located on a high-altitude plateau, controlling important mountain passes between Anatolia and the Caucasus. This made it a natural fortress and a coveted trophy for many empires — from Byzantium to the Seljuks.
• Trade Routes: Branches of the Great Silk Road passed through Kars. Merchants stopped here before the difficult crossing through the mountains, which contributed to the development of markets and caravanserais.
• Military Significance: The famous Citadel of Kars, towering over the city, served for centuries as a reliable shield around which residential quarters expanded.

Early Culture and Economy

Already in the early Middle Ages, Kars stood out for its distinctive architecture. The use of local dark basalt and tufa gave the city a stern yet majestic appearance. The economy of early Kars relied not only on transit trade but also on craftsmanship: the city was famous for its wool processing masters and carpet weaving, as well as blacksmithing, serving the needs of the garrison and travelers.

Key Milestones in the History of Kars

• 928 — Kars is proclaimed the capital of the Bagratid Armenian Kingdom, launching a period of active urban construction.
• 1064 — The city comes under the control of the Seljuks led by Sultan Alp Arslan, becoming an important outpost.
• 1239 — Mongol troops capture Kars, incorporating it into the vast Ilkhanate Empire.
• 1387 — The city suffers a devastating invasion by the forces of Tamerlane, requiring a long period of recovery thereafter.
• 1534 — Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent incorporates Kars into the Ottoman Empire, beginning a long era of Ottoman rule.
• 1579 — Vizier Lala Mustafa Pasha conducts a massive reconstruction of the fortress and city walls, forming the current appearance of the citadel.
• 1878 — Following the Congress of Berlin, Kars becomes part of the Russian Empire, leading to the development of the city center with buildings in the Baltic architectural style.
• 1918 — Under the terms of the Treaty of Brest-Litovsk, administration of the region returns to the Ottoman Empire.
• 1921 — The Treaty of Kars is signed, finally securing the city within the Turkish Republic and defining the country's eastern borders.
• 1992 — The opening of Kafkas University (Kafkas Üniversitesi) transforms the city into an important educational hub for the region.
• 2016 — The ruins of the ancient city of Ani, located in Kars Province, are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
• 2019 — A surge in popularity of the "Eastern Express" tourist train (Doğu Ekspresi) makes Kars one of Turkey's main centers for winter tourism.

Architectural and Cultural Evolution of Kars

The appearance of modern Kars is a unique mosaic composed of the heritage of different empires and eras. Here are the key stages of transformation that shaped the unique urban environment and economy of the region:

• Capital Status and Spiritual Center (10th Century). During the Bagratid reign, Kars ceased to be just a fortress and turned into a proper city. The main urban legacy of this time was the Church of the Holy Apostles (now the Kümbet Mosque). This structure set the tone for the city's monumental architecture, constructed from black basalt.
• Ottoman Fortification (16th Century). Vizier Lala Mustafa Pasha carried out a large-scale reconstruction of the city citadel and fortress walls in 1579. It was during this period that the historical center was formed, featuring hammams (such as Mazluma Ağa) and the stone bridge Taşköprü across the Kars Çayı river, which still connects the city's districts today.
• "Baltic" Layout (1878–1917). During its time within the Russian Empire, the city underwent a radical urban transformation. A regular grid of wide streets was introduced, uncharacteristic of Eastern cities of that time. Mansions in the Baltic neoclassical style made of dark tufa appeared; today, these are the hallmark of downtown Kars and are protected as cultural heritage.
• Establishment of a Cheesemaking Hub (1920s – Present). The city's economic identity is inextricably linked to cheese production. Thanks to alpine meadows and technologies introduced from Switzerland and Germany via settlers, Kars became the capital of Turkish cheesemaking. The production of the famous "Gravyer" and "Kaşar" cheeses has formed a gastronomic brand for the city that attracts gourmets.
• Development of the Educational Cluster (since 1992). The opening of Kafkas University became a powerful driver for the local economy and culture. The influx of thousands of students revitalized the city, contributing to the opening of cafes, bookstores, and cultural centers, rejuvenating the population of this ancient city.
• The Tourist Phenomenon of the "Eastern Express" (Doğu Ekspresi). In recent years, the launch and popularization of the tourist train from Ankara to Kars have radically changed the regional economy. The city has turned into a popular destination for winter tourism and photo tours, stimulating the development of the hotel business and the restoration of historical buildings into boutique hotels.

Architectural Chronicle of Kars

The urban appearance of Kars is unique for Turkey: here, the stern monumentality of the medieval East meets 19th-century European classicism. The city seems divided into two eras — the chaotic development of old quarters at the foot of the fortress and the strict geometry of the "Russian" center.

Medieval and Ottoman Period: Stone and Citadel

The oldest part of the city, located around the fortress, has preserved the spirit of the early Middle Ages and Ottoman rule. This period is characterized by the use of rough dark basalt and tufa.

• Armenian Architecture (10th Century): The dominant feature of the Bagratid era is the Church of the Holy Apostles (now the Kümbet Mosque). This is a classic example of cross-domed architecture with a conical roof and relief decoration on the facade.
• Ottoman Fortification and Civil Construction (16th–18th Centuries): The style is defined by functionality. Iconic objects include the Kars Fortress (Citadel) and the stone bridge Taşköprü. Also belonging to this period are traditional hammams (for example, Mazluma Ağa) with their characteristic domes.

Russian Period (1878–1917): Neoclassicism and Regular Plan

The most recognizable layer of Kars' architecture, which locals call the "Baltic style." For 40 years, the city was built according to a regular master plan (Hippodamian system) with wide avenues intersecting at right angles, which was an innovation for the region.

• Style: A mix of Neoclassicism and eclecticism with elements of Neo-Baroque. Buildings were constructed from smoothly hewn basalt, often two or three stories high, with tall windows and decorative cornices.
• Urban Planning Features: Wide streets (for example, Ordu Avenue), sidewalks, and internal heating systems (Dutch stoves) integrated into the walls of houses.
• Iconic Buildings:
  • The Defterdarlık Building (former administration) — a striking example of administrative classicism.
  • Fethiye Mosque (formerly the Alexander Nevsky Church) — originally built in the Neo-Russian style, later adapted into a mosque but retaining its volume and monumentality.
  • The Governor's Mansion (Governor's House) — an example of residential architecture of that era, where government institutions or hotels are often located today.

Republican Period and Modernity

In the 20th and 21st centuries, the city developed by integrating historical heritage into modern life. Postmodernism is weakly expressed here, giving way to functional architecture.

• Heritage Adaptation: Many mansions of the "Russian period" have been carefully restored and turned into boutique hotels and restaurants, preserving the historical facade.
• New Construction: The university campus and government buildings are built with regard to the historical context, often using cladding with local stone so as not to disturb the visual harmony of the city.

Distinguished Personalities Associated with Kars

The history of Kars is an intertwining of the destinies of rulers, commanders, poets, and thinkers of different cultures and eras. Here is a list of key figures who left their mark on the city's chronicles:

• Abas I (Gagik Abas) — Ruler of the Kingdom of Kars (10th Century)
  He made Kars the capital of his state in 928. It was under him that the city experienced its first "Golden Age" of prosperity, and by his order, the famous Church of the Holy Apostles was erected — an architectural landmark that has survived to this day.
• Lala Mustafa Pasha — Ottoman Grand Vizier and Commander (16th Century)
  He led the massive reconstruction of the city in 1579. Thanks to his efforts, the fortress walls and citadel were restored, and many civil structures were built, shaping the Ottoman appearance of old Kars.
• Alexander Sergeyevich Pushkin — Russian Poet and Prose Writer (19th Century)
  He visited the city in 1829 during the Russo-Turkish War. He described his impressions of the fortress and daily life of the city in the work "A Journey to Arzrum," immortalizing Kars in classic Russian literature.
• George Gurdjieff — Philosopher, Mystic, and Composer (19th–20th Centuries)
  He spent his childhood and youth in Kars during the "Russian period." The multicultural atmosphere of the city, where traditions of different peoples coexisted, had a decisive influence on the formation of his philosophical teaching, "The Fourth Way."
• Yeghishe Charents — Poet and Translator (20th Century)
  A native of Kars who became one of the most significant literary figures of the region in the early 20th century. His early years were spent on the streets of this city, which was reflected in the formation of his personality.
• Kazım Karabekir — Turkish General and Politician (20th Century)
  Commander of the Eastern Front during the Turkish War of Independence. He played a key role in establishing control over the region and signing the Treaty of Kars, which defined modern borders.
• Orhan Pamuk — Writer, Nobel Laureate (21st Century)
  Although the writer did not live in Kars permanently, he made the city the main setting of his famous novel "Snow" (Kar). The book brought the city worldwide fame and attracted thousands of tourists wishing to see its unique winter atmosphere.