Mugla history

Ancient Roots and First Mentions

The history of the city of Muğla stretches back into deep antiquity, to a time when this region was part of the historical area of Caria. In ancient times, the settlement was known as Mobolla. Although the exact date of the city's founding is not recorded in written sources, archaeological finds indicate that the territory was inhabited as early as the prehistoric eras. The first significant mentions of the city as a fortified point date back to the Hellenistic period, when the settlement was within the sphere of influence of Rhodes.

Key Factors of Establishment

The transformation of Muğla from a small fortification into a significant urban centre was driven by a number of strategic and political reasons:

• Geographical Location: The city is situated on a plateau at the foot of Mount Asar (Asar Dağı) at an altitude of approximately 660 metres. This location provided natural protection and allowed for control over trade routes between the Aegean coast and the interior regions of Anatolia.
• Political Status: A decisive stage in the city's development was the period of the Menteshe Beylik (13th–14th centuries). Muğla became the capital of this Turkic principality, which attracted architects, scholars, and merchants to the area.
• Administrative Role: After becoming part of the Ottoman Empire, the city retained its importance as the administrative centre of the sanjak (district), which contributed to the stable development of its infrastructure.

Early Cultural and Economic Features

The economy of early Muğla traditionally relied on agriculture and craftsmanship. Thanks to the fertile soil of the surrounding plateau, farming flourished here, particularly the cultivation of olives and grapes. The city was also renowned for its weaving workshops, producing high-quality carpets and fabrics that were in demand in local markets.

The cultural appearance of the city was formed as a synthesis of ancient heritage and Islamic traditions introduced by the Menteshe dynasty. It was during this period that the unique architectural style of Muğla began to emerge, characterised by white houses with wooden elements and distinctive tiled roofs with specific chimneys, which have become the symbol of the city.

Major Historical Milestones

• 2nd Century BC — The settlement of Mobolla is mentioned in historical sources as a fortified point dependent on Rhodes.
• Mid-13th Century — The territory comes under the rule of the Turkic Menteshe dynasty, which establishes its beylik (principality) here.
• Late 13th Century — Muğla becomes the capital of the Menteshe Beylik, providing an impetus for the development of architecture and trade in the city.
• 1391 — The Ottoman Sultan Bayezid I captures the region for the first time and annexes it to his domains.
• 1402 — Following the Battle of Ankara, the commander Tamerlane returns power to the Menteshe dynasty, restoring the independence of the beylik.
• 1425 — Sultan Murad II definitively incorporates the city and its surroundings into the Ottoman Empire.
• 1867 — As a result of administrative reform, the city is confirmed as the centre of the Menteshe Sanjak within the Vilayet of Aydin.
• May 1919 — After the First World War, the city and region fall under the temporary occupation of Italian troops.
• July 1921 — Italian forces leave Muğla without armed conflict amidst the successes of the Turkish War of Independence.
• 1923 — With the proclamation of the Republic of Turkey, the province of Muğla is created, and the city officially becomes its administrative centre.
• 1992 — Muğla University (now Sıtkı Koçman University) opens, transforming the city into a major student and educational hub.
• 2012 — Muğla receives Metropolitan (Büyükşehir) status, changing the governance system and expanding the municipality's boundaries.

Stages of Development and Transformation of Muğla

The development of Muğla is a journey from a protected mountain fortress to a modern university and administrative centre. The city was shaped by the influence of trade routes, changes in dynasties, and a desire to preserve its unique identity. Below are the key stages that defined the modern appearance of the city:

• Capital of the Menteshe Beylik (13th–14th Centuries)
  The status of capital of a Turkic principality turned Muğla from a military fortification into a fully-fledged city. During this period, the foundations of urban planning were laid: the first mosques were built (such as the Ulu Cami), along with madrasas and public baths (hammams), forming the historical core of the city.

• Formation of the Arasta Trading Quarter
  During the Ottoman Empire, the Arasta Bazaar became the economic heart of the city. It united artisans and merchants, creating a stable guild system. Preserved to this day, this district still plays an important role in cultural and commercial life, attracting tourists with traditional crafts.

• Architectural Flourishing of the 18th–19th Centuries
  A period of active construction of residential mansions, which formed the unique architectural style of Muğla. Thanks to the collaboration of local Turkish and Greek masters, the famous white houses with wooden carvings and characteristic "hat" chimneys appeared, becoming the city's calling card.

• Status of Administrative Centre of the Republic (1923)
  After the proclamation of the Republic of Turkey, Muğla officially became the centre of the province of the same name. This cemented the city's role as a bureaucratic hub managing world-famous resorts (Bodrum, Marmaris, Fethiye), which ensured an influx of state investment into infrastructure.

• Designation as a Protected Historical Zone (1970s)
  Unlike many Turkish cities that underwent chaotic concrete development, Muğla timely adopted a course of conservation. The decision to protect the historical centre (Kentsel Sit Alanı) allowed the preservation of the authentic atmosphere, making the city an important object of cultural tourism.

• Transformation into a University City (1992)
  The opening of Sıtkı Koçman University became a powerful driver of economic and socio-cultural change. The influx of tens of thousands of students rejuvenated the population, stimulated the development of the service sector, cafes, modern housing, and transport, turning a quiet civil service town into a lively and dynamic centre.

Architectural Evolution and Urban Landscape

The architectural appearance of Muğla is unique in that the city has preserved its integral historical fabric, which has not been destroyed by modern high-rise developments. Urban development proceeded organically, conforming to the complex terrain at the foot of Mount Asar. Unlike the coastal resorts, Muğla represents an open-air museum where traditional Anatolian architecture dominates.

Eras and Styles

The city's buildings clearly reflect the changing historical periods, where each stage has left its mark in stone and wood:

• Beylik Period and Early Ottoman Style (14th–15th Centuries):

  Characterised by monumentality and simplicity of form. This was the time of the formation of the city's religious core. Buildings were constructed from cut stone, with an emphasis on functionality and spiritual significance, without excessive decoration.

• Traditional Civil Architecture (18th–19th Centuries):

  The most vibrant layer of Muğla's heritage. This is the era of the flourishing of the "Turkish House" (Türk Evi). The style is distinguished by a synthesis of wood and stone, wide eaves, and functional design adapted to the climate. In the Saburhane district, the influence of Greek masters can be traced, adding elegance to decorative elements (especially wood carving).

• Late Ottoman Eclecticism (Late 19th Century):

  During this period, trends of modernisation penetrated the city. Public structures appeared (towers, administrative buildings) in which traditional forms were mixed with neoclassical elements popular in the late empire.

• Republican Modernism (20th Century):

  With the acquisition of provincial centre status, administrative buildings appeared in a strict, official style, and later — the university campus, representing modern functional architecture.

Landmark Structures and Elements

The appearance of Muğla is formed not so much by palaces as by residential quarters and public spaces that have preserved the spirit of the past:

• Muğla Houses (Muğla Evleri): The main architectural dominant feature. These are two-storey white mansions with red tiled roofs. Their unique feature is the famous Muğla chimneys, shaped like a closed "hat", which protects the hearth from strong winds and rains.
• The Great Mosque (Ulu Cami): Built in 1344 during the time of the Menteshe Beylik. It is the oldest place of worship in the city, demonstrating the transition from Seljuk traditions to Early Ottoman ones.
• Clock Tower (Saat Kulesi): Erected in 1895 by the Greek master Filavari. This elegant structure in the Arasta district became a symbol of urban modernisation at the end of the 19th century.
• Konakaltı Caravanserai (Konakaltı Hanı): A historical building that served as a resting place for merchants. Today it has been restored and is an example of commercial architecture of the Ottoman period.
• Saburhane Quarter: A historical district where the blend of Turkish and Greek architectural traditions is most vividly presented, with narrow cobbled streets and ancient squares.

Distinguished Personalities Linked to Muğla

The history and modern appearance of Muğla have been shaped by the contributions of rulers, educators, and patrons. Below are key figures whose names are inextricably linked with this city.

• Menteşe Bey — Founder of the Dynasty and Ruler (13th Century)
  The founder of the Anatolian Beylik (principality) of Menteshe. It was he who chose Muğla as the capital of his state, transforming it from a Byzantine fortification into a prosperous Turkic city. Under his rule, the foundations of administrative governance were laid, and the construction of the first significant Islamic structures began.
• Şahidi İbrahim Dede — Sufi Poet and Mystic (1470–1550)
  A prominent representative of the Mevlevi order and author of renowned Sufi treatises. He lived and preached in Muğla, exerting immense influence on the spiritual life of the region. His tomb on the slopes of the mountain in Muğla remains an important site of pilgrimage and a historical landmark.
• Kerimoğlu Eyüp — Folk Hero (Efe) (1882–1901)
  A legendary figure of local folklore, a symbol of the struggle for justice in the late Ottoman period. His tragic death in a skirmish in a village near Muğla inspired the people to create the famous song and dance "Kerimoğlu Zeybeği", which is performed today at all celebrations in the province.
• Zihni Derin — Agronomist and Educator (1880–1965)
  A native of Muğla who went down in Turkish history as the "Father of Tea". Although his main achievements are related to the development of tea plantations in the Black Sea region, he is honoured in Muğla as an outstanding countryman whose scientific approach to agriculture changed the economy of the entire country.
• Sıtkı Koçman — Businessman and Philanthropist (1912–2005)
  The man who gave the city a second wind. Thanks to his massive financial support, Muğla University (now bearing his name) was built and developed. This transformed a quiet administrative town into a dynamic youth and scientific centre.
• Nail Çakırhan — Architect, Poet, and Journalist (1910–2008)
  Laureate of the prestigious Aga Khan Award for Architecture. Although born in neighbouring Ula, his contribution to the preservation and popularisation of traditional "Muğla architecture" is invaluable. He revived the style of wood-and-stone houses, which today defines the touristic appearance of the entire region.
• Yüksel Aksu — Film Director and Screenwriter (born 1966)
  A contemporary artist who brought fame to Muğla in cinema. His film "Dondurmam Gaymak" (Ice Cream, I Scream), filmed in the city and its surroundings with the participation of local residents, introduced the world to the unique Aegean dialect, humour, and culture of the people of Muğla.