Masuda history

Foundation and Historical Roots

The history of Masuda is inextricably linked with the samurai clan of the same name, which ruled this territory for several centuries. Although people have inhabited these lands since ancient times, the settlement began to take shape as a significant political and administrative centre during the Heian and Kamakura periods.

A key milestone was the consolidation of the Masuda clan's power in the Iwami Province. Their residence was Nanao Castle, situated on a hill from where control was exercised over the surrounding lands and the coastline. It was around the castle and the clan's domains that the city we know today began to grow.

Key Development Factors

The development of Masuda was facilitated by a fortunate combination of geographical and political conditions:

• Geography and Waterways: The city is located in the delta of the Takatsu and Masuda rivers, which flow into the Sea of Japan. This provided fertile soil for agriculture and access to maritime routes.
• Maritime Trade: Thanks to its access to the sea, Masuda became an important point in the region's trade network. Local rulers actively developed maritime connections, allowing for the exchange of goods not only with other provinces of Japan but also with the continent.
• Political Strategy: The Masuda clan skilfully manoeuvred through feudal wars, maintaining their influence right up to the Sengoku period ("The Age of Warring States"), which ensured relative stability for the region.

Early Cultural and Economic Features

The economy of early Masuda was based on agriculture and trade; however, the city also distinguished itself by a cultural level that was unusually high for a provincial centre of that time.

A special role in the cultural history of the city was played by the great artist and monk Sesshu Toyo. In the 15th century, he was invited by the head of the Masuda clan and spent his final years here. Sesshu left behind a unique legacy — two gardens at the Iko-ji and Manpuku-ji temples, which are today recognised as national historical and landscape monuments. This testifies to the fact that medieval Masuda was a centre of attraction for people of art and spiritual practices.

Major Historical Milestones

• 12th Century (Heian Period): The Masuda clan asserts its authority on the coast of Iwami Province, laying the foundations for a future political and economic centre.
• 1479: The famous artist and monk Sesshu Toyo arrives in the city at the invitation of the clan head, transforming it into an important cultural hub.
• 1506: Sesshu Toyo completes his life's journey in Masuda, leaving behind unique gardens at the Iko-ji and Manpuku-ji temples.
• 1600: After the Battle of Sekigahara, the Masuda clan moves to another province, and the territory comes under the direct or indirect control of the Shogunate.
• 1889: During the administrative reforms of the Meiji era, the town of Masuda is officially established.
• 1952: Masuda receives official city status (shi) as a result of the merger of the town with seven neighbouring villages.
• 1993: Hagi-Iwami Regional Airport opens, significantly simplifying access for tourists to the western coast of Shimane.
• 2004: The city acquires its modern boundaries after merging with the neighbouring towns of Mito and Hikimi.
• 2005: The opening of the Shimane Arts Center "Grand Toit" takes place, becoming the architectural landmark and cultural heart of the city.
• 2019: Masuda's medieval heritage receives national recognition and is included in the "Japan Heritage" list.

Stages of Development and Transformation

The evolution of Masuda is a journey from a fortified feudal castle to the modern cultural centre of the Iwami region. Below are the key moments that defined the current appearance and economy of the city:

• Medieval Trade Boom (Muromachi Period):

  During the rule of the Masuda clan, the city became an important port for trade with China and Korea. This laid the economic foundation of the region and introduced foreign influences into the local culture, which was rare for provinces far from the capital.

• Sesshu's Landscape Transformation:

  The creation of gardens at the Iko-ji and Manpuku-ji temples did not merely adorn the city but also set a high standard of urban planning aesthetics. These gardens formed a unique cultural landscape which, centuries later, became the city's main tourist magnet.

• Administrative Consolidation (1952):

  Receiving official city status (shi) united scattered settlements in the river delta. This allowed for the centralisation of water resource management and the commencement of planned development for residential and commercial districts.

• Overcoming Isolation (1993):

  The opening of Hagi-Iwami Airport was a critically important economic event. The air harbour connected the remote San-in region with Tokyo and Osaka, opening Masuda to mass tourism and simplifying business contacts.

• Large-scale Expansion of Boundaries (2004):

  The merger with the towns of Mito and Hikimi increased the city's territory, incorporating vast forest areas and gorges. This reoriented the vector of development from purely coastal to eco-tourism and active leisure in the mountains.

• Architectural Modernisation (2005):

  The construction of the Shimane Arts Center "Grand Toit" changed the urban landscape. The building, clad in traditional Sekishu-gawara tiles, became a symbol of the synthesis of old craft traditions and modern architecture, turning Masuda into the cultural capital of the prefecture.

• National Heritage Recognition (2019):

  The inclusion of the city's medieval structure in the "Japan Heritage" list stimulated programmes for restoration and preservation of the historical environment, securing Masuda's status as an open-air museum city.

Architectural Appearance and Urban Planning

The urban development of Masuda was defined by its historical role as a castle town and trading port. The settlement formed in the river delta, oriented towards the feudal lords' residence and the waterways. Today, the city's architectural landscape represents a unique dialogue between medieval heritage, traditional Japanese style, and bold modern urbanisation.

Major Architectural Eras and Styles

In Masuda's architecture, a clear connection between times can be traced, where each style reflects the economic and cultural status of the era:

• Muromachi Era (Medieval Architecture):

  Represented by classic Zen Buddhist temple architecture. This style is characterised by wooden structures, massive roofs with curved slopes, and the harmonious integration of buildings into the natural landscape (gardens). The strictness and asceticism of the forms emphasise the spiritual purpose of the structures.

• Traditional Iwami Region Style (Vernacular Architecture):

  The appearance of residential quarters is formed under the influence of the climate and local craftsmanship. A key element is the use of Sekishu-gawara tiles. These are red-brown glazed tiles produced in the region, which protect homes from snow and salty sea winds. The abundance of red roofs creates a unique warm colour palette in the city panorama.

• Contemporary Modernism and Contextualism (21st Century):

  The new architecture of Masuda does not copy Western models but reinterprets traditions. Modern public buildings are constructed using concrete and glass, yet with the active application of traditional materials for finishing, which allows them to fit into the historical context.

Iconic Structures Defining the Cityscape

Several key objects serve as the architectural landmarks of Masuda:

• Iko-ji and Manpuku-ji Temples: Examples of historical wooden architecture that have preserved the spirit of the samurai era and the aesthetics of the 15th century.
• Arts and Culture Center "Grand Toit": A masterpiece of modern architecture designed by the renowned architect Hiroshi Naito. The building has become a symbol of the new era: its geometric forms are clad in 280,000 tiles of traditional Sekishu roofing. This is a vivid example of how postmodernism can respect local traditions.
• Ruins of Nanao Castle: Although the castle itself has not survived, its location on the hill and the remaining earthen fortifications still define the historical topography of the city.

Distinguished Figures of Masuda

The history of the city is closely interwoven with the destinies of people who left a significant mark on the art, science, and politics of Japan. From ancient poets to scientists of global renown, these individuals formed the cultural code of the region.

• Kakinomoto no Hitomaro (c. 660 – c. 724)
  Poet and official of the Asuka period
  One of Japan's greatest poets and one of the "Thirty-Six Immortals of Poetry". He served as an official in the Iwami Province and, according to legends, spent his final years here. Masuda houses the main shrine dedicated to his spirit — Kakinomoto Shrine, which is an important place of pilgrimage for literary figures.
• Sesshu Toyo (1420–1506)
  Zen monk and master of suiboku-ga (ink wash painting)
  Although Sesshu was born in another province, it was Masuda that became his final resting place. Invited by the Masuda clan, he spent the concluding stage of his life here, creating the famous gardens at the Iko-ji and Manpuku-ji temples, which are today considered the pinnacle of Japanese landscape art.
• Masuda Fujikane (1529–1597)
  Samurai, 19th head of the Masuda clan
  An outstanding politician and military commander of the Sengoku period. He managed to preserve the independence and influence of his lineage during difficult times of internecine wars, skilfully building relationships with the powerful Mori clan. It was under him that the castle town of Nanao and the surrounding territories reached their medieval flourishing.
• Hata Sahachiro (1873–1938)
  Bacteriologist and physician
  A native of Masuda who achieved worldwide fame. Working in Germany alongside Paul Ehrlich, he developed the preparation "Salvarsan" — the first effective medicine for syphilis. His discovery saved countless lives and became a breakthrough in chemotherapy. He was nominated for the Nobel Prize on multiple occasions.
• Tokugawa Musei (1894–1971)
  Benshi (silent film narrator), actor, and essayist
  Born in Masuda, he became a legend of the Japanese entertainment industry in the 20th century. He was the most famous "benshi" in Japan, voicing silent films with his unique voice, and later became a popular radio presenter, writer, and actor who defined the standards of the spoken genre in the country.