Sanandaj history

Sanandaj, the capital of the Kurdistan Province in Iran, boasts a rich history closely interwoven with Kurdish culture and the Ardalan dynasty. Although archaeological findings in the city's vicinity suggest settlements existed here since ancient times, the modern city was established relatively recently.

Foundation and Formation

Modern Sanandaj was founded in the early 17th century by order of the Shah of the Safavid dynasty. Soleiman Khan, the ruler of the Ardalan Kurdish principality, was instructed to move the capital from the old fortress of Palangan to a new location. To achieve this, the fortress in the small village of Senna was restored and expanded, around which the new city grew. Over time, the name "Senna-dij" (Fortress of Senna) evolved into the modern Sanandaj.

Key Development Factors

Several factors contributed to the city's rapid growth:

• Political Status: Sanandaj became the new capital of the powerful Ardalan principality, which governed this region for centuries. This transformed it into a vital administrative and political centre.
• Geographical Location: The city is situated in a fertile valley surrounded by the Zagros Mountains, providing both protection and resources for development.
• Trade: By order of Soleiman Khan, a bazaar, a mosque, and public baths were built in the city, laying the foundation for its transformation into a major trading hub. The historic Bazaar of Sanandaj, inspired by the architecture of Isfahan, remains the economic heart of the city to this day.

Cultural and Economic Features

From its very inception, Sanandaj developed as a centre of Kurdish culture. As the capital of the Ardalan Emirate, it attracted poets, scholars, and artisans. The city became renowned for its carpets, traditional crafts, and unique architecture. Its early economic prosperity was closely linked to its status as a capital and its location on trade routes, which fostered the development of the bazaar and artisan workshops.

Key Dates in the History of Sanandaj

• ~13th Century: An ancient settlement on the site of the modern city, known as Senna, ceases to exist following a devastating Mongol invasion.
• 1169–1867: The region flourishes under the rule of the Ardalan dynasty — influential Kurdish rulers who controlled this territory for seven centuries.
• ~1636–1637: By order of the Safavid Shah, the local ruler Soleiman Khan Ardalan founds modern Sanandaj. He moves the capital from the old Palangan fortress, laying the groundwork for the city's future growth.
• 17th Century: To develop trade and strengthen ties with neighbouring regions to the east of the city, the Qeshlaq Bridge is constructed, becoming a vital transport artery.
• 1805–1813: By decree of Amanullah Khan Ardalan, the majestic Dar al-Ehsan Mosque is erected. Today, it is not only an important religious centre but also a gem of Islamic architecture.
• 1867: The central government of Iran under the Qajar dynasty dissolves the semi-autonomous Ardalan principality. This step concludes a centuries-old era of rule by the local dynasty and fully integrates the region into the country's administrative system.
• Early 20th Century: As part of the city's modernization typical of the Pahlavi era, a new street is laid through the historic centre. It divides the ancient Sanandaj Bazaar into two parts, forever changing its appearance.
• 1925–1979: The city definitively secures its status as the administrative centre and largest city of the Iranian province of Kurdistan, contributing to its further growth and development.
• 2019: In recognition of the region's rich musical traditions, UNESCO designates Sanandaj as a "Creative City of Music", honouring its unique contribution to world culture.

Stages of Sanandaj's Development: From Emirate Capital to Cultural Centre

The history of Sanandaj is a journey from its founding as the new capital of a Kurdish principality to its transformation into a major administrative centre and an internationally recognised cultural point on the map of Iran. Key transformations in its development reflect shifting political eras and economic priorities.

• Founding of the New Capital (17th Century): Moving the capital of the Ardalan Emirate to Sanandaj was the starting point of its development. This step turned a small settlement into the political and administrative hub of the region, attracting resources, nobility, and artisans.
• Creation of the Commercial Core (17th Century): The construction of a monumental bazaar modelled after the capital city of Isfahan laid the city's economic foundation. The bazaar became the heart of commercial life, fostering the development of trade and crafts, such as carpet weaving and woodworking, for which the city is famous today.
• Architectural Flourishing (19th Century): During this period, iconic structures were erected that shaped the appearance of the historic centre. The construction of the Dar al-Ehsan Mosque and luxurious residences, such as the Asef Vaziri Mansion, demonstrated the wealth and cultural influence of the ruling dynasty. These buildings are jewels of Islamic and Kurdish architecture.
• Centralisation and Loss of Autonomy (Late 19th Century): The abolition of the Ardalan Emirate by the Qajar dynasty changed the city's status. Sanandaj transformed from the capital of a semi-independent principality into a provincial centre within a unified state, leading to a shift in administrative and economic functions.
• Urban Modernisation (20th Century): The Pahlavi era saw the transformation of urban space. The most significant event was the construction of a new street that divided the historic bazaar into two parts. This decision, aimed at modernising the transport system, permanently altered the appearance and logistics of the city's main commercial centre.
• Status as Provincial Administrative Centre (20th Century): The official consolidation of Sanandaj's status as the capital of the Kurdistan Province facilitated its further growth. This led to infrastructure development, population increase, and the strengthening of its role as the principal city of Iranian Kurdistan.
• International Recognition (2019): The designation of the city as a UNESCO Creative City of Music became a significant milestone in modern history. This recognition highlighted the region's unique musical heritage and opened new opportunities for the development of cultural tourism and the economy.

The architectural appearance of Sanandaj is the visual history of the city captured in stone. Here, several eras blend harmoniously, each leaving its unique mark on the urban fabric. The main development occurred during the reigns of the Safavid, Qajar, and Pahlavi dynasties.

Safavid Era (17th Century): Foundation and Planning

Modern Sanandaj was founded in the 17th century during the Safavid era, and its initial layout largely followed the urban planning principles of Isfahan, the capital of that time. This period defined the city's core.

• Style: Early Safavid, with an emphasis on functionality and the creation of a unified urban ensemble.
• Key Objects: The central bazaar, the first congregational mosque, and public baths (hammams) were established, forming the social and economic centre of the city. The Qeshlaq Bridge, built by order of Shah Safi, became a vital infrastructure project of that time.

Qajar Era (18th–19th Centuries): Decorative Flourishing

The rule of the Qajar dynasty became a "Golden Age" for Sanandaj's architecture. The city was adorned with luxurious mansions and monumental religious structures, which today serve as its main landmarks.

• Style: Qajar style, characterised by a blend of traditional Persian motifs with European influence. It is distinguished by lavish decoration: intricate brickwork, an abundance of coloured tiles, mirror mosaics, stained glass, and exquisite wood carving and stucco (plaster relief).
• Iconic Buildings: The jewel of this period is the Dar al-Ehsan Mosque, built in the early 19th century. Magnificent residences of the local nobility were also erected, such as the Asef Vaziri Mansion (House of Kurds), the Khosro Abad Mansion, and the Moshir Divan Mansion, which display the full splendour of Qajar architecture.

Pahlavi Era (20th Century): Modernisation and Transformation

In the 20th century, during the Pahlavi dynasty, Sanandaj, like many other Iranian cities, underwent large-scale modernisation. The main focus was on infrastructure development, which led to significant changes in the historic centre.

• Style: Functionalism and modernism with elements of neoclassicism, typical of the architecture of that time. New buildings featured stricter and more concise forms.
• Urban Planning Changes: A key event was the construction of a new wide street (modern-day Revolution Street), which cut straight through the heart of the city and divided the historic bazaar into two parts. This decision, aimed at improving transport connectivity, forever changed the look and logistics of the old centre.

Distinguished Personalities Associated with Sanandaj

Sanandaj, as the historic capital of the Ardalan Kurdish principality and a cultural hub of the region, has given the world many talented figures. These individuals have made significant contributions to politics, art, and science, leaving a notable mark on history.

• Soleiman Khan Ardalan (17th Century) — The ruler and founder of modern Sanandaj. It was he who, by order of the Safavid Shah, moved the capital of the Ardalan principality, laying the foundation for the city's development. Under his rule, the central bazaar, mosque, and public baths were built, defining the urban structure and economic core of Sanandaj.
• Amanullah Khan I Ardalan (reigned 1800–1825) — One of the most influential rulers of the Ardalan dynasty. His era was marked by a cultural and architectural renaissance. By his decree, the famous Dar al-Ehsan Mosque was erected, becoming a gem of Islamic architecture of the Qajar period and the city's main religious centre.
• Mastoureh Ardalan (1805–1848) — A Kurdish poetess, writer, and historian. She is considered one of the first female historians in the Middle East. Born in Sanandaj, she received an excellent education at court. Her main work, "History of Ardalan", is an invaluable source on the history of Kurdish principalities. Her poetic works, written in Persian and Kurdish, have also received widespread acclaim.
• Mawlawi Tawgozi (1806–1882) — A prominent Kurdish Sufi poet and one of the pillars of classical Kurdish literature. Although not born in Sanandaj itself, his work is closely linked to the region's cultural environment and the Ardalan dynasty. He wrote in the Gorani dialect, which was the literary language at the Ardalan court, and his works have had a profound influence on subsequent generations of poets.
• The Kamkars (20th-21st Centuries) — A world-renowned musical ensemble consisting of seven brothers and a sister, originally from Sanandaj. They are among the most famous promoters of traditional Kurdish music. The group virtuously performs both folk and classical Persian music, appearing on major global stages and making an invaluable contribution to preserving and developing the musical heritage of Kurdistan.
• Hadi Zia-oddini (born 1956) — A contemporary Iranian sculptor and artist of Kurdish origin, born in Sanandaj. His monumental works, often depicting strong and expressive human figures, adorn many cities in Iran and around the world. One of his famous sculptures is the monument to the poetess Mastoureh Ardalan, installed in her hometown.