Shopping in Lome is a colorful and immersive experience that revolves largely around traditional commerce and local craftsmanship rather than high-end luxury retail. As a major trading hub in West Africa, the city is famous for its vibrant atmosphere where bargaining is an art form. The capital is particularly renowned for its textiles, especially the high-quality wax prints that have made Togolese merchants famous across the region. Visitors will find a mix of bustling open-air markets, roadside stalls, and a growing number of modern shops.
The heart of the city's commercial activity is located in the downtown area, often referred to as Assigame. This district is a maze of streets packed with vendors selling everything from fabrics to electronics. Another key commercial artery is the Boulevard du 13 Janvier (Boulevard Circulaire) in the Deckon neighborhood. This area is more modernized, featuring a variety of boutiques, banks, and stores selling mobile phones, clothing, and accessories, making it a convenient stop for general shopping needs.
While Lome does not have massive shopping malls comparable to those in Western capitals, the retail landscape is modernizing. Travelers looking for a more conventional shopping experience can visit large supermarkets and department stores such as Ramco. These establishments offer a wide range of imported goods, groceries, toiletries, and household items in an air-conditioned environment, providing a comfortable break from the heat of the street markets.
The markets are undeniably the highlight of shopping in Lome. The Grand Marché is the undisputed center of trade, a sprawling multi-story hub famous for its "Nana Benz"—wealthy businesswomen who specialize in selling intricate wax print fabrics. It is the best place to find colorful textiles, fresh produce, and spices. For a more specialized experience, the Village Artisanal is an organized cooperative where you can buy high-quality handicrafts directly from the artisans, including leather sandals, wood carvings, and batik paintings. Additionally, the Akodessewa Fetish Market offers a unique, albeit unusual, shopping experience for those interested in traditional charms and curiosities.
When searching for souvenirs, the top choice is undoubtedly wax print fabric (pagne), which can be purchased by the yard and taken to a local tailor to create custom clothing. Other excellent items to bring back include hand-carved wooden statues, traditional masks, leather goods, and locally produced pottery. Jewelry made from beads and cowrie shells also makes for affordable and authentic gifts.
Most shops and markets operate from Monday to Saturday. Markets typically open early, around 8:00 AM, and wind down by 5:00 PM or 6:00 PM. Smaller boutiques and modern stores usually open from 9:00 AM to 12:30 PM, close for a lunch break, and reopen from 3:00 PM until the evening. Sunday is generally a quiet day with many places closed.
Cash is king in Lome. The West African CFA franc (XOF) is the only currency accepted in markets and smaller shops. Credit cards are rarely used outside of major hotels, supermarkets, and upscale restaurants, so it is essential to carry sufficient cash. Bargaining is expected in markets and with street vendors; start by offering a lower price and negotiate with a smile. Tax-free shopping and VAT refunds are not standard services for tourists in Togo, so the price you negotiate or see on the receipt is final.