Navigating Banjul requires a shift in perspective for travelers accustomed to scheduled subways or precise bus timetables. The public transport system here is informal, road-based, and deeply integrated into the local way of life. There are no metros, trams, or trains in the city. Instead, the streets are dominated by a mix of shared vans, taxis, and the essential ferry service that connects the island capital to the northern bank of the river.
The backbone of local transit is the gele-gele. These are privately owned minibuses or vans that ply set routes throughout the city and to the surrounding urban areas like Serrekunda. They are the most authentic and affordable way to travel, though they are often crowded and can be hot. There are no official bus stops; you simply flag one down on the side of the road or board at a designated garage (terminal). Be prepared to wait, as drivers typically do not depart until every seat is filled.
For a more comfortable alternative, taxis are widely available and come in two distinct categories. Yellow Taxis are the standard local cabs. They operate on a shared basis (picking up multiple passengers going in the same direction) for a low flat rate, or they can be hired for a "town trip" (private charter), which requires negotiating the price before you get in. Green Taxis are specifically licensed for tourists. You will find them parked near major hotels and attractions. While they are significantly more expensive than yellow taxis, they offer fixed prices, better-maintained vehicles, and drivers who often act as informal guides.
A unique and vital part of the city's transport network is the Banjul-Barra Ferry. Since the capital is located on an island at the river's mouth, this ferry service is the main link to the north. The crossing takes about 45 minutes to an hour, though waiting times can be long. It is a colorful, bustling experience where passengers share the deck with vehicles, livestock, and goods. For a faster but less stable crossing, small wooden boats known as pirogues also operate this route, though they are less recommended for safety reasons.
The payment system across all modes of transport is strictly cash only. There are no travel cards, apps, or electronic ticketing systems. In gele-geles, you pay an "apprentice"—a conductor who rides in the van, collects fares, and shouts out the destination. Fares are very low, usually amounting to a small amount of local currency. It is crucial to carry small change (coins and small notes), as drivers often struggle to break large bills.
Tourists should keep a few practical tips in mind. Public transport generally operates from early morning until late evening, but availability drops off sharply after dark. If you choose to ride a gele-gele, watch your belongings closely, as they can get tightly packed. For short distances within the city center, walking is often the most efficient option, as the capital is compact and the traffic can be heavy during rush hours.
Cycling is not a major form of commuting due to the chaotic traffic and lack of bike lanes, although some hotels in the resort areas offer bike rentals for leisure. Car rentals are available but are generally discouraged for first-time visitors due to the unpredictable driving conditions. For most travelers, a mix of walking and utilizing the reliable Green Taxis provides the best balance of safety and convenience.