Sandakan

Sandakan, often celebrated as the gateway to Borneo's wildlife, is a vibrant coastal city located in the state of **Sabah**, on the northeastern coast of Malaysia. With a population of approximately **396,000** residents, it serves as a bustling commercial hub and a crucial port town facing the Sulu Sea. The city offers a unique blend of colonial heritage, rich cultural diversity, and unparalleled access to some of the world's most fascinating natural ecosystems.

While the city is modernizing rapidly, it retains deep roots in the past. Visitors interested in the colonial era can explore the fascinating history of Sandakan, which once served as the capital of British North Borneo. Today, the city is perhaps best known as the jumping-off point for eco-adventures. It is world-famous for the **Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre**, where visitors can observe these majestic primates in their natural habitat, as well as the nearby **Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre**.

Beyond the rainforests, Sandakan is a haven for marine life enthusiasts, offering easy access to the **Turtle Islands Park**, a sanctuary for endangered green and hawksbill turtles. After a day of exploration, travelers can enjoy the city's reputation for having some of the freshest and most delicious seafood in the region. Whether you are a nature lover, a history buff, or a foodie, Sandakan promises a memorable experience full of discovery.

Sandakan experiences a tropical climate characterized by consistent warmth and high humidity throughout the year, making it a lush destination for nature lovers. The temperatures remain remarkably stable, with daily averages generally hovering between 26°C and 28°C. Visitors can expect daytime highs to frequently reach around 30°C, particularly in May and June, while evenings are mild with minimum temperatures rarely dropping below 24°C.

Rainfall is a defining feature of the region, occurring frequently across all seasons. The weather in Sandakan is often wet, with data indicating between 22 and 30 rainy days per month. January and November are typically the dampest months in terms of frequency, seeing rain almost every day, while April offers a slightly drier window. Despite the regular showers, the rain often comes in bursts, keeping the surrounding rainforests vibrant and green.

Beyond the well-trodden paths of the orangutan sanctuaries and rainforest adventures, Sandakan holds a treasure trove of cultural nuances and historical curiosities waiting to be uncovered. Here are a few fascinating details that reveal the unique character of this coastal city.

• Sandakan was historically nicknamed "Little Hong Kong" due to the significant influx of Cantonese migrants who settled here in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This heritage is still evident today, as Cantonese is widely spoken alongside Malay and English, and the city boasts a vibrant culinary scene influenced by southern Chinese traditions.

• Foodies exploring the local markets may encounter a peculiar sweet treat known as the "UFO Tart." Also affectionately called the "cow-dung tart" by locals due to its shape, this delicious pastry consists of a flat sponge base topped with vanilla custard and a swirl of meringue.

• The city is home to the spectacular Puu Jih Shih Temple, located atop a steep hill overlooking the bay. It is believed that the temple's strategic position provides good Feng Shui, protecting the town and bringing prosperity to its inhabitants while offering visitors one of the best panoramic views in the region.

• Sandakan is inextricably linked to the literary world through the American author Agnes Newton Keith. She lived here in the 1930s and penned the famous book "Land Below the Wind," a title that has since become the enduring unofficial motto for the entire state of Sabah.

Reaching this captivating city on the northeastern coast of Borneo is relatively straightforward, with air travel being the most popular choice for visitors. For a comprehensive guide on all transport options, routes, and tips, you can read more about how to get to Sandakan to plan your journey effectively.

The most convenient gateway is Sandakan Airport (IATA: SDK), which is located directly in the city of Sandakan, just about 5 km from the center. It is a regional hub that connects the city with major Malaysian destinations like Kuala Lumpur and Kota Kinabalu. Upon arrival, the journey to the city center is quick, taking approximately 30 minutes by taxi or shuttle. While it is a medium-sized airport, it is the primary entry point for tourists heading to the nearby wildlife sanctuaries.

Alternatively, many international travelers first land at Kota Kinabalu International Airport (IATA: BKI) in the city of Kota Kinabalu. This is the main aviation hub for Sabah, situated roughly 224 km away from Sandakan. From here, you can catch a short connecting flight to Sandakan, which is the preferred option for most. If you choose to travel by road from Kota Kinabalu, be prepared for a long scenic drive that takes approximately 6 hours across the state.

For clarity, here is a summary of the main airports:

The city of Sandakan does not have a railway station, and there are no train services connecting it to the rest of Sabah. The existing railway network in the state is limited to the western coast and does not extend eastwards. Visitors relying on ground transportation typically use the extensive long-distance bus network or private transfers to travel between cities.

Sandakan offers a diverse range of attractions that go beyond its famous wildlife sanctuaries, inviting visitors to explore its cultural heritage, recreational spots, and renowned culinary scene. From ornate temples on hilltops to family-friendly leisure parks, the city provides a variety of experiences for travelers looking to discover the local lifestyle.

One of the most striking landmarks in the city is the Puu Jih Shih Temple, a magnificent Buddhist temple situated atop a steep hill at Tanah Merah. Built in 1987, this architectural marvel is adorned with vibrant red and gold pillars, intricate dragon statues, and beautiful landscaped gardens. It is not only a place of worship but also a favorite spot for tourists due to its commanding location, which offers breathtaking panoramic views of Sandakan Bay and the Sulu Sea.

For those traveling with family or seeking a refreshing break from the tropical heat, the Indah Jaya Waterpark is a popular destination. Located within the Indah Jaya Recreation Club, this facility features a variety of slides and pools suitable for all ages. It serves as a lively recreational hub where visitors can relax, swim, and enjoy a fun-filled day in a safe and well-maintained environment, making it a great addition to a holiday itinerary.

No visit to this coastal city would be complete without indulging in its legendary seafood. The Empire Seafood Restaurant stands out as a key culinary attraction, drawing both locals and tourists eager to taste the freshest catch from the surrounding waters. Known for its bustling atmosphere and extensive menu, it offers an authentic taste of Sandakan's gastronomic culture, where high-quality seafood is prepared in traditional Chinese-Malaysian styles.

Sandakan is widely regarded as the seafood capital of Sabah, offering a gastronomic experience that is as diverse as its population. Thanks to its location on the Sulu Sea, the city enjoys a bountiful supply of fresh marine produce, which serves as the backbone of the local diet. The culinary scene here is a delightful mix of Chinese Cantonese influences, traditional Malay flavors, and indigenous ingredients, resulting in dishes that are both unique and incredibly affordable compared to other parts of Malaysia.

One of the most distinctive dishes you must try is Seafood Bak Kut Teh. While this herbal soup is traditionally made with pork ribs elsewhere in Malaysia, the Sandakan version often features a luxurious mix of prawns, fish, squid, and fish maw, simmered in a peppery, aromatic broth. Another breakfast staple is the famous Sandakan Spring Noodles, or Dan Gong Mian. These springy, curly egg noodles are typically tossed in a savory sauce and served with slices of roasted pork or succulent dumplings, making for a hearty start to the day.

To quench your thirst in the tropical heat, the local favorite is Kit Chai Ping. This refreshing beverage combines freshly squeezed calamansi lime juice with a salted preserved plum and ice, creating a perfect balance of sweet, sour, and salty flavors. For coffee lovers, the local Kopi culture is strong, with traditional coffee shops (kopitiams) serving rich, robust coffee sweetened with condensed milk, often accompanied by toast or the iconic UFO tart—a custard and meringue pastry that is a local specialty.

The dining culture in Sandakan ranges from bustling street stalls to large banquet-style halls. For a truly atmospheric meal, visitors often head to the Sim Sim Water Village, where restaurants are built on stilts over the water, allowing you to enjoy the freshest catch while the waves lap beneath you. Those looking for a lively, air-conditioned environment often visit popular spots like the Empire Seafood Restaurant, which is celebrated for its extensive menu and ability to cater to large groups seeking a classic Chinese seafood feast.

Welcome to Sandakan! To ensure your adventure in this charming nature hub of Malaysia is as smooth and enjoyable as possible, we have compiled a list of essential practical tips to help you navigate the local culture and environment.

1. Clothing and Gear: Due to the tropical humidity, pack loose, breathable fabrics like cotton or linen. Comfortable walking shoes are essential for jungle treks, and a lightweight raincoat or umbrella is a must-have as showers can occur unexpectedly. If you plan to visit religious sites like the Puu Jih Shih Temple or local mosques, remember to dress modestly by covering your shoulders and knees.
2. Transportation: The most convenient way to get around the city is by using ride-hailing apps like Grab, which are affordable, reliable, and help overcome language barriers. Taxis are also available, but you should ensure the driver uses the meter or agree on a price before starting the journey. While public buses exist, they can be confusing for first-time visitors, making e-hailing the preferred option.
3. Finances: The local currency is the Malaysian Ringgit (MYR). While credit cards are widely accepted in hotels, malls, and larger restaurants, cash is absolutely necessary for local markets, hawker stalls, and small shops. ATMs are plentiful in the city center. Tipping is not mandatory, but leaving small change or rounding up the bill is a kind gesture.
4. Health and Safety: Sandakan is generally a safe destination, but it is wise to take standard precautions. Pharmacies like Watsons and Guardian are easily found in shopping areas for basic medical supplies. Since you are in a tropical region near rainforests, carrying strong mosquito repellent is crucial. It is also advisable to drink bottled or filtered water instead of tap water.
5. Communication: Bahasa Malaysia is the national language, but English is widely spoken and understood, especially in the tourism and service sectors. Learning a few local phrases like "Terima Kasih" (Thank you) is appreciated by locals. You can easily purchase a SIM card with a data plan at the airport or convenience stores to stay connected.
6. Local Etiquette: Malaysians are known for their warmth and politeness. It is customary to remove your shoes before entering a private home or a place of worship. When eating with your hands or passing objects to others, always use your right hand, as the left is considered unclean in local culture.
7. What to Avoid: Avoid pointing at people or objects with your index finger, as this is considered rude; instead, use your thumb with your four fingers folded under. It is also best to refrain from public displays of affection, as this is a conservative society where such behavior may cause discomfort.
8. Additional Tip: Start your days early! The sun rises around 6:00 AM, which is the best time to explore the bustling Central Market or head out for wildlife tours, as animals are most active in the cooler morning hours.

By keeping these practical tips in mind, you will be well-prepared to embrace the laid-back charm and natural wonders of Sandakan. Have a safe and memorable journey exploring the unique heritage and wildlife of Sabah!

Sandakan offers a nightlife scene that is distinctively laid-back and centered around relaxation rather than high-energy clubbing. Unlike the bustling party capitals of Southeast Asia, the evening atmosphere here is defined by breezy waterfront promenades, lively night markets, and cozy venues where locals and travelers mingle. The primary hub for evening entertainment is the **Sandakan Harbour Square**. This waterfront district comes alive after sunset, offering a pleasant setting for a stroll along the esplanade, where you can enjoy the cool sea breeze and watch the lights shimmering on the bay.

For those seeking a place to unwind with a drink, the city has a growing selection of bars and bistros, particularly around the harbour and the **Bandar Indah** area. Rooftop venues are a highlight here, providing panoramic views of the town and the sea. The Balin Roofgarden Bistro & Bar is a local favorite, known for its creative cocktails and stunning sunset vistas. It is the perfect spot to enjoy a quiet evening conversation or a romantic night out. The dress code in most establishments is casual, reflecting the city's unpretentious and friendly vibe.

Dining is a major part of the nightlife experience in Sandakan. For a memorable feast, the Empire Seafood Restaurant is a top choice for evening dining. It is renowned for serving fresh, locally sourced seafood in a lively, banquet-style setting that captures the essence of Malaysian hospitality. Visitors can indulge in substantial meals late into the evening, often accompanied by the buzz of happy diners.

If you prefer a more local and immersive experience, the **Kim Fung Night Market** is a must-visit, especially on weekends. Located at Mile 4, this bustling market offers a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and smells. Here, you can sample an array of affordable street food, from grilled satay to sweet treats, and shop for inexpensive clothes and gadgets. It is a fantastic place to observe local life and enjoy a budget-friendly night out.

When it comes to safety, Sandakan is generally safe for tourists at night, but it is advisable to stick to well-lit and populated areas like the Harbour Square. Public transport options like buses are limited in the evenings, so the best way to get around is by using e-hailing apps like Grab or calling a taxi. Fares are reasonable, and it ensures a secure and convenient return to your accommodation.

While the nights are relaxed, daytime entertainment in Sandakan offers its own charm. Apart from the famous wildlife centers, families can enjoy the Indah Jaya Waterpark, which provides a fun escape from the tropical heat with its pools and slides. For those interested in culture and history, a visit to the Puu Jih Shih Temple offers not only spiritual serenity but also some of the best daytime views over the city, making it a worthy stop before your evening adventures begin.

Sandakan is a city where history and nature converge, offering a compelling selection of parks and museums that cater to diverse interests. Beyond its famous wildlife sanctuaries, the city maintains several well-preserved spaces that honor its past, celebrate its rich biodiversity, and provide recreational opportunities for visitors of all ages.

For history enthusiasts, the Sandakan Memorial Park is an essential stop. Located on the site of a former World War II prisoner-of-war camp, this beautifully landscaped park serves as a solemn tribute to the soldiers who perished during the Sandakan Death Marches. The park features a small museum pavilion providing historical context, preserved machinery from the era, and a serene path that invites quiet reflection amidst the lush tropical greenery.

Another cultural gem is the Agnes Keith House, a restored colonial bungalow situated on a hill overlooking the city. Once the home of the American author Agnes Newton Keith, who wrote "Land Below the Wind," the house is now a museum displaying period furniture and artifacts that offer a glimpse into life in North Borneo during the colonial era. It is surrounded by a manicured lawn and English-style garden, providing a peaceful retreat with commanding views of the harbor.

Nature lovers seeking immersion in the rainforest without traveling far should visit the Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC). It features an impressive steel canopy walkway that allows visitors to stroll high above the ground, offering excellent opportunities for birdwatching and spotting local flora. For a blend of culture and scenic beauty, the Puu Jih Shih Temple is set within landscaped grounds on a hilltop, offering visitors both spiritual tranquility and panoramic vistas of the coastline.

Families looking for recreational fun can head to the Indah Jaya Waterpark. This leisure facility provides a refreshing escape from the tropical heat with its array of pools and slides, making it a favorite spot for locals and tourists alike to unwind and enjoy a splash-filled afternoon in a safe environment.

Navigating Sandakan is relatively straightforward, though the city does not possess a complex rapid transit network like a metro, tram, or light rail system. Instead, the public transport infrastructure relies entirely on road-based options, primarily consisting of buses, minibuses, and taxis. For most visitors, the system is easy to understand once you become familiar with the local geography, which is often described in terms of "Miles" (or Batu in the local language) stretching out from the city center.

The most common form of public transport used by locals is the bus system, which includes both larger buses and smaller minibuses or vans. These vehicles connect the downtown area with residential suburbs and key landmarks along the main arterial roads. The central bus terminal is located near the waterfront and the central market. Buses typically display their destination or route number on the windshield. While they are an authentic way to travel, they can sometimes be irregular, as many drivers wait until the vehicle is full before departing rather than adhering to a strict timetable.

When it comes to payment, the system is traditional and cash-based. There are no travel cards, digital passes, or tap-on systems for public buses in Sandakan. Passengers pay the fare directly to the driver or a conductor upon boarding or disembarking. Fares are incredibly affordable, usually costing just a few Ringgit depending on the distance. It is essential to carry small denominations of cash and coins, as drivers may not always have ample change for large banknotes.

For tourists who value convenience and comfort, ride-hailing apps are the most popular alternative to public buses. Services like Grab are widely available throughout the city and offer a hassle-free experience. You can book a car via your smartphone, see the fixed price upfront, and pay electronically or with cash. This option eliminates the language barrier and the uncertainty of bus schedules, making it the preferred choice for reaching specific attractions like the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, which is located quite far from the city center.

Traditional taxis are also easily found, particularly around the airport, hotels, and major shopping areas. Unlike ride-hailing cars, regular taxis in Sandakan may not always use a meter. Therefore, it is standard practice to negotiate and agree on the fare with the driver before getting into the vehicle to avoid any misunderstandings later. Taxis can be hired for single trips or chartered by the hour for sightseeing tours.

Regarding operating hours, it is important to note that public buses and minibuses generally stop running relatively early in the evening, often around 6:00 PM or 7:00 PM. After sunset, the frequency of public transport drops significantly. If you plan to stay out late for dinner or night market visits, it is highly advisable to arrange a ride-hailing service or have a taxi number handy to ensure a safe return to your accommodation.

For those interested in exploring at their own pace, car rentals are available at the airport and in the city center. Driving in Sandakan is generally manageable, although traffic can be heavy during peak hours. Renting a car provides the freedom to visit distant wildlife sanctuaries without relying on bus schedules. However, walking is also a viable option for exploring the compact historical center, where many heritage sites and the waterfront are located within a comfortable distance of each other.

Accommodation in Sandakan caters to a wide spectrum of travelers, ranging from backpackers seeking budget-friendly hostels to leisure tourists looking for comfortable hotels and nature enthusiasts desiring immersive eco-lodges. The city generally offers excellent value for money, with standards of hospitality that reflect the warm and welcoming nature of Sabah. Whether you are here for a quick stopover before an island trip or a longer stay to explore the rainforests, you will find suitable lodging options to match your needs.

The choice of location largely depends on your itinerary. For those interested in heritage walks, local markets, and easy access to the airport, the City Centre and the waterfront area are the most convenient places to stay. Here, you will find a mix of modern business hotels and family-run guesthouses close to shopping malls and dining spots. Alternatively, nature lovers often prefer to stay in the Sepilok area (roughly 25 km from town), which is famous for its jungle resorts and lodges nestled right on the edge of the rainforest, offering easy access to the wildlife rehabilitation centers.

For travelers on a budget, basic guesthouses and dormitories are widely available, typically costing between MYR 40 and MYR 80 per night. Mid-range hotels, which often include amenities like air conditioning and breakfast, usually range from MYR 100 to MYR 250. While Sandakan does not have an abundance of ultra-luxury international chains, it does offer several high-end 4-star establishments and boutique nature resorts where prices can exceed MYR 350 per night.

Booking Tip: If you plan to stay in the popular jungle lodges near Sepilok, it is highly recommended to book several months in advance, especially during the peak tourist season from June to September. These unique accommodations have limited capacity and tend to fill up quickly with international visitors eager to see the orangutans.

Most accommodations in Sandakan can be easily booked through major online travel platforms, which allow you to compare prices and read recent reviews. However for smaller, family-run homestays or specific eco-lodges, contacting the property directly or checking their official website can sometimes secure you a better rate or a more personalized package.

For those looking to explore the surroundings, Sandakan serves as an excellent base for day trips to several interesting nearby locations:

Among the most accessible destinations for a short visit is Lahad Datu, located approximately 97 kilometers away. It is widely renowned as the gateway to the Danum Valley Conservation Area, one of the world's most complex ecosystems. Nature enthusiasts often travel here to experience the pristine primary rainforest, which offers opportunities to spot rare wildlife such as the Bornean pygmy elephant and clouded leopard in their natural habitat.

Another option for travelers willing to venture a bit further is Tawau, situated on the southeastern coast. Known for its thriving cocoa industry and delicious seafood, Tawau offers a different cultural vibe and serves as a jumping-off point for diving adventures in the Semporna Archipelago. Closer to the town itself, visitors can explore the Tawau Hills Park, a favorite spot for jungle trekking and picnics by the river.

These nearby destinations offer a glimpse into the diverse culture and landscapes of the region.

Shopping in Sandakan offers a modest yet authentic experience that reflects the city's role as a commercial hub for the region. While it may not boast the high-end luxury boutiques found in Kuala Lumpur, the city provides a delightful mix of modern conveniences and traditional trade. Visitors can explore air-conditioned malls for standard retail needs or dive into the bustling atmosphere of local markets, which are the true heart of Sandakan's commerce. The shopping scene here is less about international fashion and more about discovering local produce, handicrafts, and unique Sabahan treats.

The primary destination for modern retail therapy is the Harbour Mall Sandakan, located prominently at the Sandakan Harbour Square. As the city's first and largest modern shopping complex, it serves as a one-stop center for both locals and tourists. Here, you can find a department store, a supermarket for essentials, various clothing brands, and a cinema. It is a convenient place to pick up travel supplies, enjoy the air conditioning, or grab a coffee while overlooking the waterfront.

For a more traditional experience, the Sandakan Central Market (Pasar Umum Sandakan) is an absolute must-visit. Situated right on the waterfront, this multi-story market is vibrant and chaotic in the best possible way. The ground floors are dedicated to fresh produce, meat, and the daily catch from the Sulu Sea, while the upper floors often house stalls selling clothes and dry goods. It is the best place to mingle with friendly locals and observe the daily rhythm of life in the city.

When it comes to souvenirs, Sandakan is famous throughout Malaysia for its high-quality dried seafood. The region produces excellent dried anchovies (ikan bilis), dried shrimp, and salted fish, which are popular gifts to bring back home due to their freshness and reasonable prices. Another local specialty is Amplang, a savory fish cracker that is addictive and widely available in various packaging suitable for travel. Additionally, given Sabah's reputation, you may find vendors selling cultured pearls and intricate local handicrafts.

Regarding practicalities, shopping malls like Harbour Mall typically operate from 10:00 AM to 10:00 PM daily. In contrast, local markets start very early, often before dawn, and tend to wind down by the early afternoon, so it is best to visit them in the morning. While credit cards and e-wallets are widely accepted in malls, supermarkets, and established restaurants, cash is essential when shopping at traditional markets, small souvenir stalls, or street vendors.

Tourists should note that Sandakan is not a duty-free zone like Langkawi or Labuan. Prices generally include the Sales and Service Tax (SST) where applicable. Bargaining is not common in modern shops or for food items, but you can try to negotiate politely for a better price when buying souvenirs or bulk items at the markets.