Westray

Known affectionately as the "Queen of the Isles," Westray is a captivating destination located in the northern part of the Orkney archipelago in the United Kingdom. This island is celebrated for its stunning diversity of landscapes, ranging from dramatic sea cliffs to pristine, white sandy beaches. With a close-knit population of approximately 600 residents, Westray offers a welcoming and authentic island atmosphere that charms visitors from the moment they arrive.

The island is a haven for nature enthusiasts and history buffs alike. Birdwatchers flock to the spectacular Noup Head, where towering cliffs host thousands of nesting seabirds, including puffins and gannets, during the breeding season. Delving into the history of Westray is equally rewarding, with significant sites such as the imposing 16th-century Noltland Castle and the discovery site of the "Westray Wife," a Neolithic figurine that is the earliest representation of a human face found in Scotland.

Whether you are looking to explore ancient archaeological treasures or simply wish to relax by the turquoise waters of Grobust Beach, Westray provides a serene escape. The island's unique blend of natural beauty, rich heritage, and friendly local culture makes it a truly unforgettable stop on any Scottish adventure.

Westray experiences a temperate maritime climate, characterized by cool temperatures and significant breezes throughout the year. The island's location ensures that it avoids extreme heat or cold, though conditions can be quite changeable. Before packing for your trip, it is advisable to check the detailed forecast for the weather in Westray to be fully prepared for the elements.

The warmest time of the year is typically August, with average temperatures reaching around 13.1°C. This season also offers the most favorable conditions for exploring, as late spring and early summer tend to be drier, with June and July seeing approximately 12 to 13 wet days. In contrast, the later months bring significantly more rainfall; October and December are the wettest, experiencing up to 24 wet days per month.

While the rainfall is consistent between these months, the temperatures differ. October remains relatively mild with an average of 10.5°C, whereas the winter period becomes noticeably cooler. During December, January, and February, average temperatures generally hover between 6°C and 7°C. Overall, visitors should expect cool, fresh air year-round, with the summer months offering the best opportunity for outdoor activities.

Beyond the scenic cliffs and sandy bays, Westray holds fascinating secrets and record-breaking features that often surprise visitors. Here are some intriguing facts about this unique island community:

• Westray is one end of the world’s shortest scheduled commercial flight. The Loganair flight between Westray and the neighboring island of Papa Westray covers a distance of just 1.7 miles. The journey is officially scheduled for two minutes, but with favorable winds, it can be completed in as little as 53 seconds.

• The imposing Noltland Castle is a testament to the paranoia of its builder, Gilbert Balfour. Constructed in the 16th century, this fortress was designed with an astonishing 71 gun loops (shot holes), far more than any typical residence of that era, reflecting Balfour's fear of his numerous political enemies.

• The archaeological site at the Links of Noltland is often compared to the famous Skara Brae but is being uncovered by the forces of nature rather than traditional excavation alone. Severe wind erosion in the dunes has gradually revealed an extensive Neolithic and Bronze Age settlement, leading archaeologists to race against time to document the treasures emerging from the sand.

• Westray is the home of the famous "Westray Wife," also known as the Orkney Venus. Discovered in 2009, this tiny sandstone figurine is only about 4 centimeters tall and is significant for being the earliest known depiction of a human face found in Scotland, dating back roughly 5,000 years.

Reaching the beautiful island of Westray is an adventure in itself, often involving a combination of air and sea travel. To plan your journey in detail and view all available options, you can read more about how to get to Westray.

For those traveling by air, the island is primarily accessible via connections through the Orkney mainland. The most significant hub for visitors is Kirkwall Airport (KOI), located in the city of Kirkwall, approximately 38 km from Westray. From Kirkwall, you can take a connecting inter-island flight or a ferry to reach your destination. Another notable option is Papa Westray Airport (PPW), situated on the neighboring island of Papa Westray, just 8 km away. This route is famous for the incredibly short flight between the two islands.

For clarity, here is a summary of the main airports:

Traveling by train is not possible directly to the island. Westray does not have a railway station, but you can arrive at the ScotRailway Station (ZIV) in the city of Inverness, which is about 206 km from Westray. From there, you can get a taxi or bus to the ferry terminals on the north coast; the road journey takes approximately 330 minutes.

Below is the information for the nearest railway station:

Despite its modest size, Westray offers a remarkable array of sights that blend ancient history with breathtaking natural beauty. From imposing fortifications to teeming seabird colonies, the island provides visitors with a chance to step back in time and immerse themselves in the wild landscape of the Orkney Islands.

One of the most significant historic sites is Noltland Castle, located near the village of Pierowall. This 16th-century fortress was built by Gilbert Balfour, a figure known for his political intrigues and need for security. The castle is renowned for its Z-plan architecture and an unusually high number of gun loops, designed to cover every angle of approach. Visitors can explore the atmospheric ruins, climb the grand staircase, and marvel at the thick stone walls that have withstood centuries of weathering.

For nature lovers, a trip to Noup Head is essential. Situated at the northwestern tip of the island, this area features spectacular sea cliffs that rise dramatically from the Atlantic Ocean. It is a premier destination for birdwatching, often referred to as a "seabird city" during the breeding season. Thousands of gannets, kittiwakes, and razorbills nest on the ledges, creating a cacophony of sound and activity. The site is also home to a picturesque lighthouse, built in 1898, which adds to the rugged charm of the coastline.

To delve deeper into the island's rich heritage, the Westray Heritage Centre in Pierowall is a must-visit. The centre is famous for housing the "Westray Wife," also known as the Orkney Venus—a small Neolithic figurine that is the earliest representation of a human face found in Scotland. Beyond this ancient treasure, the museum offers fascinating displays on the island's maritime history, shipwrecks, and local genealogy, providing a comprehensive overview of life on Westray through the ages.

Another highlight for wildlife enthusiasts is the Castle o' Burrian. This sea stack on the southeast coast was once the site of an early Christian hermitage, but today it is best known as one of the finest places in Orkney to observe puffins. From late April to July, these charismatic birds can be seen in large numbers on the grassy top of the stack. The walk to the viewpoint offers stunning coastal scenery, making it a favorite spot for photographers and hikers alike.

The culinary experience in Westray is defined by its reliance on the incredible natural larder of the Orkney Islands. As you might expect from an island community, seafood plays a starring role. The waters surrounding Westray are teeming with shellfish, and the island is particularly renowned for its Westray crab (brown crab) and lobster. These delicacies are often caught, landed, and processed locally, ensuring that the seafood served in local establishments is as fresh as it gets. Visitors should definitely try a fresh crab salad or dressed crab, which offers a sweet and delicate flavor that is hard to beat.

Beyond seafood, the island shares in the wider Orkney tradition of high-quality meat and baking. Orkney beef and lamb are staples on dinner menus, prized for their tenderness and flavor derived from the lush, green pastures. For a taste of traditional island life, look for bere bannocks. These are flat, scone-like breads made from bere, an ancient form of barley that has been grown in Orkney for thousands of years. They are delicious when served warm with local butter and cheese, such as the creamy Orkney cheddar or the crumbly Grimbister cheese.

When it comes to drinks, the local pubs and hotel bars are well-stocked with beverages that reflect the region's heritage. You will find a distinct selection of Orkney ales, brewed on the main island but popular throughout the archipelago. Brands like the Orkney Brewery and Swannay Brewery produce award-winning beers ranging from golden ales to rich stouts. For something stronger, a dram of Highland Park or Scapa whisky—distilled in nearby Kirkwall—is the perfect way to end a meal. Non-alcoholic options often feature locally produced juices, or simply a comforting pot of tea accompanied by Orkney fudge or oatcakes.

The food culture in Westray is relaxed, unpretentious, and centered around community. You won't find fast-food chains or sprawling food markets here. Instead, dining is concentrated in a few key spots, most notably in the village of Pierowall. The local hotel serves as the social hub of the island, offering hearty pub meals and a chance to chat with locals. There are also small bakeries and seasonal cafes where you can pick up fresh bread, rolls, and sweet treats. The atmosphere is always welcoming, with an emphasis on generous portions and home-cooked quality that makes tourists feel like part of the family.

Visiting the "Queen of the Isles" is a unique experience, but life on a remote island requires a bit of specific preparation to ensure your trip runs smoothly. Here are some practical tips to help you navigate Westray with ease and make the most of your adventure in this stunning part of the United Kingdom.

1. Clothing and Gear: The weather in Orkney is notoriously changeable, often seeing "four seasons in one day." Regardless of when you visit, bring waterproof and windproof layers, as the wind can be significant even in summer. Sturdy walking boots are essential if you plan to hike the coastal paths or visit the cliffs at Noup Head. If you are visiting during the cooler months, pack a warm hat, gloves, and thermal layers.

2. Transportation: There is no public metro or tram system here. The island is best explored by car or bicycle, both of which can be hired locally, though booking in advance is highly recommended. There is also a community-run "Westray Bus" service, which often operates on demand or connects with ferry arrivals; it is wise to check the schedule or call ahead. Walking is a joy, but distances between attractions can be longer than they appear on a map.

3. Finances: The local currency is the British Pound (GBP). While the main shops and the hotel in Pierowall accept credit and debit cards, it is advisable to carry some cash. You will likely encounter "honesty boxes" selling local produce, eggs, or crafts by the roadside, which operate strictly on cash. There is limited access to ATMs, typically found within the post office or local shops, so withdraw money before leaving the mainland if possible.

4. Health and Safety: Westray is an incredibly safe destination with very low crime rates. The main safety concern is the natural environment; exercise caution near cliff edges, especially at Noup Head where the ground can be unstable and winds unpredictable. For medical needs, there is a GP surgery (health centre) located in Pierowall. For serious emergencies, dial 999.

5. Communication: English is the spoken language, often with a distinct and melodious Orcadian accent. Mobile phone signal can be patchy depending on your network and location on the island, though it is generally reliable in Pierowall. Wi-Fi is available in most accommodations and the local hotel, but do not expect high-speed fiber everywhere.

6. Local Etiquette: The island community is friendly and tight-knit. It is customary to greet people you pass on the road with a wave—often just a lifting of the index finger from the steering wheel. On single-track roads, always use the designated "passing places" to let oncoming traffic pass or to allow faster vehicles to overtake you. Never park in a passing place.

7. What to Avoid: Do not disturb the wildlife. When viewing puffins or other seabirds, keep a respectful distance and keep dogs on a lead to avoid frightening the animals or damaging their burrows. Also, avoid walking across cultivated farmland unless there is a clear path, and always leave gates exactly as you found them (open or shut).

8. Additional Tip: Life on Westray moves at a slower pace, and opening hours can be limited compared to the mainland. Shops may close early or be closed entirely on Sundays. If you are arriving on a weekend, ensure you have basic supplies. Additionally, ferry capacity can fill up quickly in summer, so book your crossing from Kirkwall well in advance.

With these tips in hand, you are fully prepared to embrace the warm hospitality and rugged charm of Westray. Pack your sense of adventure, respect the local way of life, and get ready for a truly memorable island escape.

Entertainment and nightlife in Westray are defined by the island's warm community spirit rather than the high-energy clubs or bustling districts found in large cities. The "nightlife" here is cozy, informal, and centred around socialising with locals, enjoying traditional music, and appreciating the stunning natural environment. Visitors seeking a wild party scene will find instead a peaceful haven where the evening's highlight is often a hearty conversation over a pint of local ale or the mesmerizing spectacle of the night sky.

The hub of activity on the island is the village of Pierowall. This is where the island's main social venue, the Pierowall Hotel, is located. As the primary gathering spot for both residents and tourists, the hotel’s bar offers a welcoming atmosphere where you can sample Orkney’s finest whiskies and beers. It is the place to be for evening meals and late-night chats, and on many weekends, impromptu music sessions or organized events fill the room with the sounds of accordions and fiddles. The dress code is entirely casual; hiking boots and woolly jumpers are the standard attire.

Apart from the hotel, the Westray Community Centre (often referred to simply as "the Hall") plays a pivotal role in the island's evening entertainment. Throughout the year, this venue hosts a variety of events ranging from film nights and concerts to traditional Scottish country dances known as ceilidhs. These dances are energetic, fun, and open to everyone, offering a fantastic way to mingle with the local population of 600. If you are lucky enough to visit during a festival or community week, the Centre becomes the vibrant heart of the island's nightlife.

For a different kind of evening entertainment, the island itself serves as a magnificent open-air theatre. With very little light pollution, Westray is a world-class destination for stargazing. During the autumn and winter months, the "Mirrie Dancers" (the local name for the Northern Lights or Aurora Borealis) frequently illuminate the sky with dancing ribbons of green and purple. A night walk to a safe vantage point can be more breathtaking than any laser show, though visitors should always carry a torch and stay on established paths to avoid the edges of cliffs in the dark.

Practicalities for a night out in Westray are simple but important. The "rush hour" does not exist, and venues may close earlier than on the mainland if it is a quiet night, so it is wise to arrive for dinner by 7:00 or 8:00 PM. Prices are generally reasonable and comparable to the rest of the UK. Getting around at night requires planning; there is no Uber or hailing cabs on the street. You must book a taxi in advance—Westray Taxi is the local service—or rely on a designated driver. The island is incredibly safe for night walks, with crime being virtually non-existent, but the primary safety concern is the weather and the rugged terrain.

During the daylight hours, entertainment shifts towards cultural and outdoor pursuits. While there are no amusement parks or multiplex cinemas, visitors can explore the Westray Heritage Centre to learn about the island's history or visit local art studios like the Wheems Gallery. For those who enjoy active leisure, the Westray Golf Club offers a challenging 9-hole course with spectacular sea views, providing a relaxing way to spend the day before settling into the cozy rhythm of the evening.

While Westray may not possess the manicured city parks found in large metropolises, its "green spaces" are vast, wild, and breathtakingly beautiful, offering an open-air museum of natural wonders and ancient history. The island serves as a living gallery where dramatic coastlines, pristine beaches, and heritage sites blend seamlessly to create an immersive cultural landscape for visitors.

For nature lovers, the Noup Head Nature Reserve is the island's premier natural area. Managed by the RSPB, this spectacular site at the northwest tip of Westray features soaring cliffs that rise nearly 80 meters above the Atlantic waves. It is a "park" in the wildest sense, acting as a bustling seabird city during the summer months where thousands of gannets, kittiwakes, and guillemots nest. A walk along the clifftop path offers fresh sea air and unrivaled views, making it a perfect spot for hiking and photography.

Another significant natural site is the Castle o' Burrian, a sea stack located on the southeast coast. Although not a park with benches and flowerbeds, it is one of the most beloved green spaces on the island. This grassy sea stack is renowned as one of the best places in the United Kingdom to observe puffins from land. The surrounding coastal path provides a gentle walk through maritime heathland, allowing visitors to connect with the island's rich biodiversity in a serene setting.

In terms of culture, the Westray Heritage Centre in the village of Pierowall is the heart of the island's historical narrative. This community-run museum is surprisingly comprehensive, housing the famous "Westray Wife" figurine and the "Westray Stone," both of which offer a glimpse into the Neolithic mind. The exhibitions cover a wide range of topics, from shipwrecks and fishing heritage to local genealogy, providing a deep dive into the resilience and lifestyle of the islanders throughout the centuries.

Art enthusiasts will find a unique gem at the Wheems Gallery. Situated on an organic farm, this gallery showcases a curated selection of local art, sustainable textiles, and handcrafted pottery. It reflects the creative spirit of the modern Orkney community and often features works inspired by the island's changing light and landscapes. The surrounding organic gardens add to the charm, making it a peaceful retreat that combines culture with nature.

Among the historical and architectural landmarks, Noltland Castle remains the standout feature. This unfinished 16th-century fortress is an architectural marvel with its defensive design and thick stone walls. Nearby, the Links of Noltland is an ongoing archaeological dig that has been dubbed the "Pompeii of the North," revealing Bronze Age and Neolithic settlements that are actively reshaping our understanding of prehistoric Scotland.

For a truly authentic experience, take a walk to the ruins of St Mary’s Kirk in Pierowall. This ancient church, surrounded by a historic graveyard, sits atmospherically by the sea and offers a quiet space for reflection. An insider tip for visitors is to explore the coastline at low tide, particularly around the Bay of Tuquoy, where you might spot seals basking on the rocks or discover hidden rock pools teeming with marine life.

Navigating Westray is a refreshing departure from the complex transit networks of major metropolitan areas. As a serene island community rather than a bustling urban center, there is no metro, tram, or train system here. Instead, public transport is intimate and straightforward, primarily relying on a reliable local bus service that connects the main settlements and transport hubs.

The backbone of local transport is the Westray Bus Service. This service is specifically timed to coordinate with the arrival and departure of ferries at the Rapness and Gill Pier terminals, ensuring that foot passengers can easily travel to the main village of Pierowall and other key locations. The buses are comfortable minibuses rather than large city coaches, perfectly suited for the island’s narrow roads. While the network is not extensive, it covers the essential route between the ferry terminal and the village, making it a vital link for visitors arriving by sea.

When it comes to payment, simplicity is key. There are no complex travel cards, zones, or mobile apps required to ride the bus. Fares are generally affordable and are paid directly to the driver upon boarding. While card payments are becoming more common across the region, it is highly advisable to carry cash (in British Pounds) for bus fares, as electronic machines may not always be available or reliable due to signal connectivity. Prices are fixed and reasonable, typically just a few pounds for a single journey.

For those seeking more flexibility, there are excellent alternatives to the bus. Car hire is a popular choice for tourists who wish to explore the island's hidden gems at their own pace, with local providers offering vehicles for rent. Alternatively, cycling is a fantastic way to get around; the island's terrain is relatively gentle, and traffic is light, making it a cyclist's paradise. Bike rentals are available in Pierowall, allowing you to enjoy the fresh sea air while moving between attractions.

Taxis are also available but operate differently than in big cities. You cannot simply hail a cab on the street. The local taxi service, often run by the same operators as the bus or private individuals, must be booked in advance. This is particularly important if you plan to dine out in the evening or need a transfer to the airfield for a flight, as availability can be limited, especially during peak tourist seasons.

Practical advice for using transport in Westray centers on planning. Since the bus schedule is heavily dictated by the ferry timetable, it is essential to check the latest ferry schedules to know when buses will be running. On Sundays, services may be reduced or non-existent, so always confirm your travel arrangements ahead of time. By booking taxis early and keeping some cash on hand, you will find getting around this beautiful island to be a stress-free part of your adventure.

Accommodation in Westray is characterized by warm island hospitality rather than large-scale commercial tourism. Visitors will not find sprawling luxury resorts or international hotel chains here. Instead, the island offers a modest but comfortable selection of lodgings, primarily consisting of a central hotel, charming bed and breakfasts, self-catering cottages, and budget-friendly hostel facilities. For those who prefer being closer to nature, there are also designated areas for camping.

The most convenient area to stay is undoubtedly the village of Pierowall. As the island's main settlement, it serves as the hub for local amenities, including shops, the heritage centre, and dining options. Staying in or near Pierowall ensures easy access to the bus service that connects to the ferry terminals, making it an ideal base for those traveling without a car. However, for those seeking solitude, renovated croft houses located further afield offer peace, privacy, and uninterrupted views of the dramatic coastline.

A standout option for many travelers is the Pierowall Hotel. Situated right on the harbor front, it is often considered the heart of the community. It offers comfortable rooms and the convenience of an on-site restaurant and bar, where locals and tourists mingle. For visitors seeking more independence or a budget-friendly option, the island also features a well-regarded hostel and campsite, often located in converted farm buildings that provide a unique and authentic stay.

Booking accommodation in Westray requires some foresight. Due to the limited number of beds and the island's popularity during the summer months (particularly June through August), it is highly recommended to book well in advance. Prices generally fall into the budget to mid-range category. While some options can be found on major online booking platforms, many local guesthouses and cottages operate through direct bookings via phone or their own websites, so a little extra research can uncover some hidden gems.

For those looking to explore the surroundings, Westray serves as an excellent base for day trips to several interesting nearby locations. While the island itself is a peaceful retreat, its connections to the rest of the archipelago and the mainland allow travelers to experience the wider heritage of the region.

Kirkwall is the most accessible and popular destination for a day trip from Westray. As the vibrant capital of the Orkney Islands, it is rich in history and culture. Visitors can marvel at the magnificent St Magnus Cathedral, known as the "Light in the North," explore the ruins of the Earl's and Bishop's Palaces, or wander through the charming stone-paved streets filled with local shops and cafes.

Further afield lies Shetland, a destination that offers a distinct cultural experience with its strong Norse roots and dramatic geology. Although it is a longer journey, it represents a fascinating contrast to Orkney, famous for its rugged coastlines, abundant wildlife, and the unique Shetland pony. It is an ideal spot for those wishing to extend their island-hopping adventure in the northern United Kingdom.

These nearby destinations offer a glimpse into the diverse culture and landscapes of the region, providing ample opportunities for exploration beyond the shores of Westray.

Shopping in Westray is a delightful reflection of the island's slow-paced and self-sufficient lifestyle. Visitors will not find high-street fashion chains, sprawling department stores, or designer boutiques here. Instead, the shopping experience is intimate and authentic, focused on essential goods, local craftsmanship, and fresh island produce. It is an opportunity to meet the makers, support the local economy, and discover unique treasures that are distinct to the Orkney Islands.

The main hub for commerce is the village of Pierowall. This is where the island's primary general stores are located. These establishments, such as the well-known local grocers and hardware merchants, serve as the lifeline for the community, stocking everything from fresh food and newspapers to farming supplies and gifts. A stroll through the village offers a chance to visit these independent shops, where the service is personal and friendly, and where you can often find books about local history or postcards to send home.

Given the island's small population of around 600 people, there are no shopping malls or large commercial centres in Westray. The retail landscape is defined by individual, family-run businesses rather than complexes. The charm lies in visiting a small gallery or a workshop rather than browsing a multi-story shopping centre.

While there are no formal daily markets, Westray is famous for a unique shopping tradition: honesty boxes. Dotted along the roadsides throughout the island, these small cupboards or boxes are filled with local goods such as free-range eggs, homemade jams, chutneys, and even hand-knitted items. There is no shopkeeper present; you simply take what you want and leave the correct amount of cash in the tin. This system relies entirely on trust and is a testament to the island's safe and community-focused spirit.

When it comes to souvenirs, Westray offers high-quality, locally made products that make for perfect mementos. Textiles are a particular specialty; look for unique knitwear and fabrics from local designers like Hume Sweet Hume, known for their distinct patterns and colours inspired by the landscape. Art lovers should visit the galleries to find pottery, paintings, and prints. Additionally, replicas of the famous "Westray Wife" figurine, available at the heritage centre, are a popular keepsake. For a taste of the island, a packet of traditional oatcakes or a jar of local fudge is always a good choice.

Opening hours in Westray are generally from 9:00 AM to 5:00 or 6:00 PM, Monday to Saturday. However, it is important to note that some smaller shops may close for an hour at lunch, and many businesses are closed or have significantly reduced hours on Sundays. In terms of payment, major credit and debit cards are accepted in the main shops and the hotel. However, carrying cash (British Pounds) is essential for using the honesty boxes and for smaller transactions where card machines might not be available.

Regarding tax-free shopping, the United Kingdom no longer offers a VAT refund scheme for tourists shopping in stores (as of 2021). While you can still purchase goods for direct shipping to an overseas address to avoid VAT, this service is unlikely to be available in the small, local shops of Westray. Visitors should expect to pay the standard price displayed on items.