Bakalalan

Nestled high in the mountains of Sarawak, Bakalalan (often spelled Ba'kelalan) is a serene cluster of nine villages that offers a refreshing escape from the tropical humidity typical of the region. Located in the northern part of Borneo, this hidden gem in Malaysia sits at an altitude of approximately 3,000 feet above sea level, blessing the area with a cool, temperate climate that feels distinct from the rest of the country. It is the heartland of the Lun Bawang people, known for their warm hospitality and deep connection to the land.

The geography of Bakalalan defines its unique charm, characterized by rolling green hills, lush paddy fields, and misty mountain peaks. While exploring the history of Bakalalan, travelers will discover how the local community has thrived in this highland environment for generations, maintaining traditions that are closely tied to agriculture and nature. The region is particularly famous for its apple orchards—a rarity in tropical Malaysia—and the cultivation of the premium Adan rice, a sweet, small-grain variety that is highly prized by gourmets.

Beyond its agricultural wonders, the area is renowned for its natural salt springs, where locals continue to produce mountain salt using traditional methods. For those seeking adventure and tranquility, the untouched landscapes offer excellent opportunities for trekking and birdwatching. Whether you are eager to taste the legendary local apples or simply wish to breathe in the crisp mountain air, Bakalalan invites you to experience a peaceful and authentic side of Borneo.

Due to its elevation in the highlands, the weather in Bakalalan is refreshingly cool and temperate, offering a stark contrast to the tropical heat found elsewhere in Malaysia. The climate is remarkably consistent throughout the year, making it a pleasant destination for those seeking respite from the humidity.

Temperatures remain stable regardless of the season, with daily averages hovering around 21°C to 22°C. During the day, you can expect comfortable highs reaching up to 26°C, while the evenings and early mornings are crisp, with lows regularly dropping to around 17°C. This spring-like atmosphere is perfect for outdoor activities, though it is advisable to bring warm layers for the cooler nights.

Rainfall is a persistent feature of the region's weather pattern. Visitors should be prepared for frequent showers, as the area typically experiences between 22 and 29 wet days per month year-round. Although the precipitation keeps the surrounding paddy fields and landscapes lush, it is wise to pack rain gear, as damp conditions are common in almost every month.

Beyond its scenic rice fields and misty peaks, Bakalalan holds several fascinating secrets that set it apart from the rest of Borneo. This highland settlement is not just a natural paradise but a place where unique agricultural feats and ancient legends come to life.

• Malaysia's "Apple Valley": Perhaps the most surprising fact about this tropical location is that it is the only place in Malaysia where apples are successfully cultivated on a commercial scale. Thanks to the cool mountain climate, the locals grow several varieties, including the popular Manalagi apple. The name itself is a playful pun meaning "where else?"—implying that you cannot find such apples anywhere else in the country.

• The Giant Upai Semaring: Local folklore is rich with tales of a legendary giant named Upai Semaring, a hero of the Lun Bawang people. According to myth, he was so large that he left physical marks on the landscape. Visitors can still find large stones in the area, known as Batu Inarit, which are said to have been carved by the giant using just his fingernail.

• Natural Highland Salt: While most salt comes from the sea, Bakalalan produces its own "mountain salt" from natural brine springs found deep in the highlands. For generations, the villagers have processed this iodine-rich water by boiling it in large cauldrons until it crystallizes. In the past, this was a vital trade commodity that prevented health issues like goiter among the highland tribes.

• A Name Rooted in Water: The name "Bakalalan" (or Ba'kelalan) reveals the secret to its agricultural success. In the Lun Bawang language, Ba means "wet paddy fields" or "wetlands," and Kelalan is the name of the river that flows through the region. This unique geography allows the community to practice wet-rice cultivation at high altitudes—a rarity in Borneo, where hill rice is more common—producing the famous, sweet Adan rice.

Reaching the remote highlands of Bakalalan is an adventure that typically begins with a flight to one of the major hubs in northern Borneo. Since the village is nestled deep in the mountains of Sarawak, there are no direct international flights to the settlement itself. For a detailed guide on planning your journey, you can read more about how to get to Bakalalan and the various transport options available.

The primary gateway for most travelers is Miri Airport (MYY), located in the city of Miri, approximately 183.5 km from Bakalalan. It is a significant transport hub with frequent connections to Kuala Lumpur and other major cities. From Miri, visitors usually take a connecting rural air service (MASwings) directly to the highlands, which offers a spectacular view of the rainforest canopy. Alternatively, an overland journey via 4WD is possible but requires navigating rugged logging roads, taking significantly longer than the flight.

Another option for regional travelers is Brunei International Airport (BWN), situated in Bandar Seri Begawan, about 128 km away. While this is an international airport, using this route involves crossing the border into Malaysia (Sarawak) and traveling by road to Lawas before ascending the mountains to Bakalalan. For those already in the highlands, Bario Airport (BBN) is located just 33.7 km away in the neighboring settlement of Bario. Trekking or hiring a local vehicle between Bario and Bakalalan is a popular way to experience the "Borneo Jungle Safari."

For clarity, here is a summary of the main airports in the region:

Bakalalan is not connected to any railway network, and there are no train stations in the vicinity or in the wider Sarawak region. The primary mode of overland transport is via four-wheel-drive vehicles from the town of Lawas. The journey from Lawas involves traversing unpaved logging tracks and can take anywhere from 4 to 6 hours depending on weather conditions, making it a rugged but memorable experience.

The charm of Bakalalan lies in its untouched natural beauty and the unique cultural experiences offered by the highlanders. Without the distraction of modern commercial tourism, the attractions here are deeply rooted in nature, agriculture, and local traditions, inviting visitors to slow down and immerse themselves in the serene mountain atmosphere.

One of the most prominent natural landmarks is Mount Murud (Gunung Murud), which stands as the highest mountain in Sarawak. Rising to over 2,400 meters, it is a holy site for the local community and a bucket-list destination for avid trekkers. The climb takes you through diverse ecosystems, from mossy forests to rock gardens filled with pitcher plants and wild orchids. At the summit, hikers are rewarded with breathtaking views that stretch across the border, making the challenging journey well worth the effort.

For a unique cultural experience, the Bakalalan Salt Springs are a fascinating stop. Unlike sea salt, the salt here is extracted from brine wells found high in the mountains. Visitors can watch the locals practice this centuries-old tradition, where the salty water is boiled in large cauldrons over wood fires until it crystallizes. It is a rare opportunity to see such an ancient method of production still in use, and the resulting mineral-rich salt makes for a perfect, authentic souvenir.

To capture the best panoramic photos of the valley, travelers should head to Pa Sarui Viewpoint (Pa' Sarui). This vantage point requires a hike up a hill overlooking the village, offering a sweeping perspective of the patchwork paddy fields, the winding river, and the surrounding mist-covered peaks. It is the actual popular spot for witnessing the sunrise, as the morning light slowly illuminates the green highlands, making the climb well worth the effort for photographers and nature lovers alike.

Finally, a visit to the region is incomplete without exploring the famous Apple Orchards. As the only place in Malaysia with a climate cool enough to grow apples commercially, these gardens are a source of great local pride. Walking through rows of fruit-bearing trees in the tropics is a surreal experience for many visitors. Guests can often learn about the cultivation techniques directly from the farmers and, depending on the season, taste the crisp, fresh fruit straight from the tree.

The culinary experience in Bakalalan is defined by its "farm-to-table" philosophy, not by choice, but by tradition. In this remote highland settlement, food is organic, fresh, and deeply connected to the land. The foundation of almost every meal is the region's famous Adan rice. Often described as sweet and fragrant, this premium small-grain rice is so highly regarded that it is exported as a luxury product. Here, however, you eat it daily, usually prepared as Nuba Laya—soft, mashed rice wrapped in broad itip leaves to keep it warm and moist.

To accompany the rice, the Lun Bawang people serve hearty, savory dishes designed to warm you up in the cool mountain climate. A must-try is Labo Senutuk, which consists of smoked beef or buffalo meat that is boiled and then pounded until it becomes shredded and tender. Another delicacy is the prized Ikan Semah, a sweet-fleshed river fish native to the clear mountain streams of Borneo, often steamed with wild ginger or smoked. Vegetarians will delight in the abundance of jungle greens, particularly stir-fried midin (wild fern) or tapioca leaves, seasoned simply with the local high-quality mountain salt.

When it comes to beverages, the cool weather calls for endless cups of hot coffee or tea, which are staples of highland hospitality. However, Bakalalan offers a unique refreshment you won't find elsewhere in Malaysia: fresh apple juice. Sourced directly from the local orchards, the juice is naturally sweet and crisp. For those interested in traditional libations, Burak is the local rice wine. While its consumption has decreased with modern religious practices, it remains a cultural symbol of the Lun Bawang's history and is sometimes shared during special festivals or celebrations.

Dining in Bakalalan is a communal and intimate affair. You will not find commercial restaurants, fast-food chains, or street food stalls here. Instead, the food scene revolves entirely around homestays. Visitors eat with their host families, gathering around a kitchen hearth or a long wooden table. Meals are typically served family-style, with large platters of rice and bowls of side dishes passed around, fostering a warm sense of community and offering a true taste of the local lifestyle.

Visiting Bakalalan is a journey into the heart of Borneo's highlands, and due to its remote nature, a little extra preparation goes a long way. These practical tips will help you navigate the unique logistics of this serene village and ensure a smooth, enjoyable adventure.

1. Clothing and Gear: Unlike the rest of tropical Malaysia, Bakalalan enjoys a cool, spring-like climate, so packing a light jacket or fleece for the chilly evenings is essential. Since rain is frequent and the terrain can be muddy, bring a sturdy poncho and comfortable, waterproof trekking shoes with good grip. If you plan to hike in the surrounding jungles, leech socks are a highly recommended accessory.

2. Transportation: Within the cluster of villages, the best way to get around is simply by walking, allowing you to soak in the scenery. There is no public transport, metro, or ride-hailing service (like Grab) here. For longer distances or travel between settlements, you will rely on 4WD vehicles arranged by your homestay host; car rentals are not available or practical for tourists in this rugged terrain.

3. Finances: Cash is absolute king in the highlands. There are no ATMs or banks in Bakalalan, and credit cards are generally not accepted. You must withdraw sufficient Malaysian Ringgit (MYR) in Miri or Lawas before your journey to cover your accommodation, meals, guide fees, and souvenirs like the famous mountain salt or Adan rice.

4. Health and Safety: A small rural clinic (Klinik Desa) handles basic medical needs, but for serious emergencies, evacuation to a city is required. Bring a personal first-aid kit with essential medications, motion sickness pills for the flight or 4WD journey, and insect repellent. The area is very safe in terms of crime, but always be cautious on slippery jungle trails.

5. Communication: Mobile network coverage can be spotty or non-existent depending on your provider, though some areas may have community WiFi. It is best to inform family of your plans beforehand and embrace the digital detox. While your homestay hosts will likely speak English, learning a few phrases in Bahasa Malaysia or the local Lun Bawang dialect, such as "Do wai" (Hello), will be warmly received.

6. Local Etiquette: The Lun Bawang community is known for its warm hospitality; always remove your shoes before entering a home or longhouse. Greeting locals with a smile and a handshake is customary. As the community is predominantly Christian, Sundays are observed as a day of rest and worship, so expect a quieter atmosphere and join in the community spirit if invited.

7. What to Avoid: Avoid wearing overly revealing clothing, especially when walking through the village or visiting communal areas, to respect local conservative norms. Also, do not take photos of locals, particularly the elderly, without asking for their permission first.

8. Power Supply Tip: Electricity in Bakalalan is often supplied by solar power or generators and may not be available 24 hours a day. It is a smart move to bring a high-capacity power bank to keep your camera and phone charged, and a headlamp is very useful for navigating around the homestay at night.

By keeping these simple tips in mind, you will be well-equipped to fully embrace the slow pace and natural beauty of the highlands. The people of Bakalalan are incredibly welcoming, and a little preparation allows you to focus less on logistics and more on the unforgettable experience of life in the clouds.

Travelers expecting a vibrant scene of nightclubs, pulsing bars, or late-night entertainment districts will find Bakalalan to be a completely different world. In this devoutly Christian and remote highland community, "nightlife" is defined by tranquility, nature, and communal connection rather than commercial partying. There are no discos, karaoke lounges, or pubs here. The sale of alcohol is generally restricted due to religious observance, and the village settles into a peaceful slumber shortly after sunset.

The primary "evening entertainment" takes place within the warmth of the local homestays. The social heart of the evening is the kitchen or the communal living room, where guests and hosts gather around a wood-fired hearth. Here, the entertainment consists of sharing stories, learning about the Lun Bawang culture, and enjoying a cup of hot coffee or tea to ward off the mountain chill. Occasionally, if you are lucky and the season is right, a host might offer a taste of Burak, the traditional rice wine, but this is a cultural gesture rather than a party staple.

The atmosphere at night is incredibly serene and pitch-black, offering one of the best natural light shows in the region. Without the light pollution of cities, the stargazing in Bakalalan is spectacular. Visitors often spend their evenings on the verandas of their accommodation, wrapped in warm clothes, simply looking up at the Milky Way. The main village of Buduk Nur serves as the central point where you might see flickering lights from houses, but the "streets" are quiet paths used only by locals returning home.

Practical advice for the evening revolves around the environment. The temperature drops significantly at night, often to around 17°C, so the "dress code" is strictly functional: fleece jackets, long trousers, and warm socks. Since there are no streetlights, a reliable flashlight or headlamp is essential if you plan to step outside your homestay. There is no need to worry about calling a taxi or checking prices for cover charges; everything you need is usually provided by your host, and walking is the only way to get around.

Safety in Bakalalan is hardly a concern in terms of crime, as the community is tight-knit and honest. The main "dangers" are tripping on uneven paths in the dark or encountering local dogs, which can be vocal at night. It is advisable to stick to the immediate area of your accommodation after dark unless you are accompanied by a local guide. For those seeking daytime diversions, the entertainment shifts to the outdoors: exploring the apple orchards, trekking to waterfalls, or visiting the cultural landmarks like the salt springs, which replace the museums and amusement parks found in bigger cities.

In the remote highlands of Bakalalan, you will not find manicured city parks with paved paths or air-conditioned museums behind glass walls. Instead, the entire region serves as a vast, open-air sanctuary where the "parks" are untouched rainforests and the "museums" are living traditions practiced daily by the locals. The natural world and cultural heritage here are inextricably linked, offering visitors an immersive experience that feels far more authentic than a typical sightseeing tour.

Pulong Tau National Park is the crowning jewel of the region's natural spaces. Its name translates to "Our Forest" in the local Lun Bawang and Kelabit dialects, reflecting the deep connection the indigenous people have with this land. The park is a rugged expanse of highland wilderness that protects diverse ecosystems, from mossy cloud forests to pitcher plant gardens. It is best known as the home of Mount Murud, Sarawak's highest peak, which looms majestically over the landscape. For tourists, this park offers a chance to trek through one of Borneo's most pristine environments, where the air is cool and the biodiversity is staggering.

For a less strenuous but equally rewarding natural experience, the Apple Orchards of Bakalalan function as the village's unique botanical gardens. As the only place in Malaysia capable of growing apples commercially due to the temperate climate, these orchards are a source of immense local pride. Walking through the rows of fruit trees, especially during harvest season, is a surreal experience in the tropics. It offers a peaceful, garden-like atmosphere where visitors can learn about high-altitude agriculture and enjoy the fresh, crisp mountain air.

While there are no conventional museums in the settlement, the Buduk Bui Salt Factory serves as a fascinating "living museum" of industrial heritage. Here, history is not displayed in a cabinet but is actively demonstrated by the villagers. You can witness the centuries-old process of extracting salt from natural brine springs, a tradition that has shaped the economy and health of the highlanders for generations. Watching the brine boil in massive cauldrons over wood fires provides a tangible link to the past, making it a must-visit for anyone interested in cultural history.

Similarly, the village itself acts as a cultural gallery. The community's lifestyle, centered around the Adan rice fields and traditional longhouses, showcases a heritage that has survived the test of time. Visitors are often invited to observe or participate in daily activities, from harvesting rice to playing traditional bamboo instruments. This immersive approach allows you to learn about the Lun Bawang culture directly from the people who live it, offering insights that no plaque or audio guide could ever convey.

For a hidden natural gem, seek out the Pa' Kumap Waterfall. Accessible via a trek through the jungle, this secluded spot is perfect for a refreshing dip or a quiet picnic. Unlike the more famous landmarks, it remains relatively unvisited, offering a private slice of paradise where the sounds of the cascading water and the rainforest create a perfect natural symphony.

Travelers planning a visit to Bakalalan must adjust their expectations regarding public transportation. As a remote cluster of villages nestled deep in the highlands, there is absolutely no conventional public transport system here. You will not find metros, buses, trams, or fixed-route minivans. The infrastructure is basic, and the settlement relies entirely on private vehicles and community-based logistics rather than a municipal transit network.

The primary and most effective way to navigate the area is simply by walking. The nine villages that make up the settlement are connected by unpaved roads and footpaths that offer scenic views of the paddy fields and mountains. Distances between the villages are manageable for those with a reasonable level of fitness, and walking allows you to fully appreciate the cool highland climate. For many visitors, moving on foot is not just a necessity but a highlight of the experience.

For distances that are too far to walk, or if you are carrying heavy luggage, the only motorized alternative is private 4WD vehicles. These are typically Toyota Hilux pick-up trucks owned by locals. There are no official taxi companies, car-sharing apps, or bike rental shops. Instead, transportation is an informal service arranged directly through your accommodation. Your homestay host is your primary contact for logistics; they can either drive you themselves or contact a neighbor who offers transport services.

Since there is no ticketing system, cash is the only accepted method of payment. There are no travel cards, validators, or mobile payment apps. Prices for rides—such as transfers from the small airport to your homestay or a drop-off at a trekking point—are usually fixed by the community or negotiated beforehand. It is essential to carry sufficient small notes, as drivers rarely have change for large denominations.

Practical advice for getting around revolves around communication and planning. Do not expect to flag down a vehicle on the road. You must request transport in advance, ideally the night before or at breakfast. Be patient, as "schedule" is a loose concept in the highlands, and drivers may be tending to their farms before picking you up. Operating hours are essentially daylight hours; finding a ride after dark is difficult unless pre-arranged for a specific reason.

A unique "transport" feature of the region is the widespread use of motorbikes by locals to navigate the narrow bunds between rice fields. While tourists generally do not rent these due to the tricky terrain, you may occasionally be offered a pillion ride by a friendly local for a short distance. Ultimately, the lack of a modern transport system is part of Bakalalan's charm, encouraging a slower pace of life where the journey is just as important as the destination.

When planning a stay in Bakalalan, travelers should adjust their expectations from standard commercial tourism to a more intimate, community-based experience. There are no 5-star luxury resorts, high-rise hotels, or international chains in this remote highland settlement. Instead, the accommodation landscape is defined almost exclusively by homestays (inns run by local families). These provide a unique opportunity to live alongside the Lun Bawang people, offering a warm and authentic insight into their daily lives.

The majority of these homestays are clustered in and around the village of Buduk Nur. This is the most convenient area for tourists as it is situated close to the airport, the district office, and the few small convenience stores available in the valley. Staying here ensures you are central to the start of many trekking trails and within walking distance of the main community hall where large gatherings often take place.

Facilities in these wooden guesthouses are generally basic but comfortable and clean. Visitors can expect simple rooms with mattresses, mosquito nets, and shared bathrooms. Due to the cool highland climate, air conditioning is unnecessary, but warm blankets are essential for the chilly nights. While some established homestays offer heated showers, others may rely on traditional water heating methods. It is a rustic experience where the luxury lies in the hospitality and the stunning mountain views rather than modern amenities.

Booking Tip: Since internet connectivity can be intermittent in the highlands, online booking platforms are rarely used. The best way to secure accommodation is to contact hosts directly via phone or WhatsApp well in advance. If you are booking a tour package through a guide in Miri or Lawas, they will typically arrange the homestay for you as part of the deal.

In terms of cost, accommodation in Bakalalan is very budget-friendly. Pricing is usually calculated on a "per head, per night" basis. A distinct feature of staying here is that rates often include full board (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), as there are no standalone restaurants in the village. Guests enjoy fresh, home-cooked meals featuring the famous Adan rice and local jungle produce. Be sure to bring sufficient cash (Malaysian Ringgit) to cover your entire stay, as credit cards are not accepted and there are no ATMs in the settlement.

For those looking to explore the surroundings, Bakalalan serves as an excellent base for day trips to several interesting nearby locations:

Miri: As the primary gateway to the northern highlands, Miri is the most accessible urban center from the village, connected by a short rural air service flight. This coastal city offers a vibrant contrast to the quiet mountains, featuring bustling handicraft markets, excellent seafood restaurants, and the historic "Grand Old Lady" on Canada Hill, Malaysia's first oil well. It serves as a perfect spot for a quick return to modern amenities or a coastal breeze before heading back to the hills.

Kota Kinabalu: Located in the neighboring state of Sabah, Kota Kinabalu is a major regional hub known for its lively waterfront and the majestic backdrop of Mount Kinabalu. While the journey requires transit, it is a compelling destination for those wishing to experience the diverse culture of Borneo, from the islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park to the busy Gaya Street Sunday Market.

Sandakan: For wildlife enthusiasts, Sandakan offers a unique historical and natural experience on the east coast. Known globally for the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre and the Sun Bear Conservation Centre, it provides a deep dive into Borneo's conservation efforts. Although further away, it complements the nature-focused experience of the highlands with its rich biodiversity and colonial history.

These nearby destinations offer a glimpse into the diverse culture and landscapes of the region.

Shopping in Bakalalan is a unique experience that stands in stark contrast to the commercialized retail therapy found in modern cities. As a remote highland settlement, there are no glitzy shopping avenues, designer boutiques, or duty-free complexes here. Instead, the shopping scene is rustic, intimate, and centered entirely on locally produced goods. Visitors have the rare opportunity to buy directly from the farmers and artisans who create the products, turning every purchase into a personal interaction and a direct contribution to the local community's livelihood.

The primary "commercial hub" of the settlement is located in the central village of Buduk Nur. This is where you will find a handful of small, family-run convenience stores, known locally as kedai runcit. These humble wooden shops serve as the lifeline for the villagers, stocking essential daily items such as canned food, toiletries, batteries, and dry goods. For tourists, these shops are the go-to places for snacks and basic supplies, but they do not offer extensive retail options.

Travelers should be aware that there are absolutely no shopping malls or department stores in Bakalalan. The concept of a plaza or a shopping center does not exist in this rural landscape. If you are in need of specialized trekking gear, electronics, or fashion items, you must purchase them in major cities like Miri or Lawas before boarding your flight or 4WD to the highlands.

Unlike larger towns in Sarawak that have bustling central markets (tamu), Bakalalan's market scene is informal and decentralized. There is no large daily market hall. Instead, fresh produce is often sold from small stands in front of homes or directly at the source. For example, to buy the region's famous apples or seasonal vegetables, you might simply visit an orchard or a farm. This farm-to-buyer approach ensures that everything you purchase is incredibly fresh and organic.

The true treasure of shopping here lies in the unique souvenirs, which are famous throughout Borneo. The number one item to bring back is the premium Adan rice. Grown in the cool highland waters, this small-grain rice is renowned for its natural sweetness and fragrance. Another essential buy is the Bakalalan Mountain Salt (Garam Bukit). You can purchase this mineral-rich salt directly from the boiling sheds where it is processed, often packaged in traditional leaves or plastic tubes. Other worthwhile keepsakes include intricate beadwork necklaces and hand-woven rattan baskets, which showcase the artistic heritage of the Lun Bawang people.

When it comes to transactions, cash is the only option. There are no credit card terminals or digital payment facilities in the village, and foreign currencies are not accepted. Since there are no ATMs, visitors must bring a sufficient supply of Malaysian Ringgit (MYR) in small denominations. Opening hours for the small village shops are generally dictated by daylight and the owner's schedule, typically running from around 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM. However, almost all commercial activity ceases on Sundays, as the community observes a day of rest and church attendance.

Regarding tax refunds, the Tourist Refund Scheme (TRS) or tax-free shopping is not available in Bakalalan. The settlement is not a duty-free zone like Langkawi or Labuan. All prices quoted are final, though they are usually very reasonable given the high quality and labor-intensive nature of the local products.