Varese

Varese, often affectionately known as the "Garden City," is a captivating destination located in the Lombardy region of Italy. Famous for its abundance of lush parks, elegant villas, and landscaped gardens, this city offers a refined and relaxing atmosphere that perfectly blends urban convenience with natural beauty. Nestled amidst rolling hills and overlooking its namesake lake, Varese serves as a gateway to the stunning lake district and the pre-Alpine mountains.

Geographically, the city enjoys a privileged position near the Swiss border, sitting at the foot of the Campo dei Fiori mountain range. With a population of approximately 80,000 residents, it maintains a lively yet manageable pace, making it an ideal spot for travelers seeking both culture and tranquility. The local climate is generally mild, influenced by the nearby lakes, which adds to the allure of its outdoor spaces.

The rich history of Varese is visible in its architectural heritage and well-preserved landmarks. One of the most significant sites is the Sacro Monte di Varese, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that features a holy road with 14 chapels leading up to a sanctuary, offering breathtaking panoramic views. Another must-see is the Palazzo Estense, often compared to Vienna's Schönbrunn Palace due to its magnificent 18th-century gardens, which are open to the public and serve as the city's green heart.

Beyond its historical treasures, Varese is a haven for nature lovers. The shimmering Lake Varese offers a scenic cycle path that encircles the water, perfect for a leisurely ride or a sunset walk. Whether you are exploring the cobblestone streets of the city center or hiking in the surrounding regional park, Varese invites you to discover its unique charm and timeless elegance.

Varese experiences a semi-continental climate typical of the pre-Alpine region, characterized by distinct seasonal changes. Generally, visitors can expect warm summers with occasional rain and cold winters where temperatures often hover just above freezing. The city is known for its relatively high humidity and frequent rainfall, which contributes to the lush greenery of its famous gardens and parks.

During the peak summer months of July and August, average high temperatures reach approximately 26°C, making it pleasant for exploring the lakes, though you should still be prepared for about 12 to 15 wet days per month. Conversely, winter is chilly, with January seeing average lows around -0.2°C. Spring brings milder weather but is also the rainiest season, particularly in May, which records up to 19 wet days. For more detailed forecasts to help you pack, you can check the weather in Varese.

Beyond its scenic landscapes and elegant atmosphere, Varese holds several fascinating secrets that add depth to its character. From prehistoric discoveries hidden in the lake to unexpected artistic treasures, here are a few things you might not know about this Northern Italian city.

• A Prehistoric Treasure: Lake Varese is home to Isolino Virginia, a tiny island that is one of the most important archaeological sites in Europe. It preserves the oldest prehistoric pile-dwelling settlement in the Alpine region, dating back to the Neolithic period, and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

• The "Little Versailles": The city earned the nickname "The Little Versailles of Milan" thanks to the Estensi Gardens and Palace. This stunning residence was built for Francesco III d'Este, the Duke of Modena, who was so enchanted by the beauty of Varese that he refused to return to his own duchy, preferring to govern from this magnificent summer home.

• Contemporary Art in a Historic Setting: While it looks like a traditional 18th-century mansion from the outside, Villa Panza houses one of the world's finest collections of American contemporary art. The villa is renowned for its unique juxtaposition of Baroque architecture with monochrome paintings and site-specific light installations by artists such as Dan Flavin and James Turrell.

• A Basketball Capital: Varese has a legendary status in the world of sports, particularly basketball. The local team, Pallacanestro Varese, was a dominant force in Europe during the 1970s, winning numerous international championships and earning the city a reputation as a powerhouse of European basketball.

Reaching this charming "Garden City" is quite convenient thanks to its strategic location in Northern Italy, close to major transport hubs. Whether you are arriving by air or rail, you have several efficient options to choose from. For a comprehensive guide on all available routes and transport modes, you can read more about how to get to Varese.

The city of Varese does not have its own airport, but you can fly into Milano Malpensa Airport (IATA: MXP) in the city of Milan, which is arguably the best option as it is located only about 22.9 km from Varese. Due to this short distance, a transfer by taxi or bus is quick, taking approximately 55 minutes. Alternatively, for those coming from Switzerland or looking for regional connections, Lugano Airport (IATA: LUG) in Lugano is situated just 21.7 km away, with a travel time of around 53 minutes. Travelers can also consider Milano Linate Airport (IATA: LIN) in Milan, roughly 53.2 km from Varese, though the transfer will take longer.

For clarity, here is a summary of the main airports:

If you prefer traveling by train, it is important to note that while Varese has local rail connections, long-distance travelers often arrive at major hubs in nearby cities first. You can arrive at the Milano Centrale Station in the city of Milan, which is about 47.3 km from Varese. From there, you can catch a direct regional train or take a taxi/bus, which takes about 90 minutes by road. Another excellent option is Porta Garibaldi Station, also in Milan and approximately 46.6 km away, serving as a key node for commuter traffic towards Varese.

Below is a list of significant railway stations nearby:

Varese is rightfully celebrated for its splendid villas and meticulously manicured green spaces, earning it the nickname "The Garden City." For visitors, the main allure lies in exploring these historic residences, which often house world-class art collections and are surrounded by parks that are perfect for leisurely strolls. Below are some of the most significant sites to include in your itinerary.

One of the city's premier cultural destinations is Villa Panza. This 18th-century mansion is renowned worldwide not just for its Baroque architecture, but for the extraordinary contemporary art collection it holds. Visitors can wander through salons adorned with monochrome paintings and site-specific neon installations by American artists, creating a fascinating contrast between the old and the new. The villa overlooks a magnificent Italian-style garden, offering a peaceful retreat with views of the city.

Another jewel in Varese's crown is the Estensi Gardens and Palace. Built as a summer residence for Francesco III d'Este, Duke of Modena, the palace now serves as the seat of the municipality. The real highlight for tourists, however, is the expansive public park behind the palace. Modeled after the gardens of Schönbrunn in Vienna, it features grand avenues lined with hornbeams, elegant fountains, and a panoramic hill that offers one of the best views of Varese's historic center.

For those seeking a more eclectic architectural style, Villa Toeplitz Park is a must-visit. Located in the Sant'Ambrogio district, this villa was once the residence of a wealthy banker and is famous for its exotic park. The grounds are designed with a complex system of water channels, fountains, and cascades, influenced by oriental gardening styles. It is an ideal spot for a relaxing afternoon walk among rare plant species and scenic water features.

Finally, history enthusiasts should stop by Villa Recalcati. Situated in the Casbeno district, this noble residence dates back to the early 18th century and is currently the headquarters of the Province of Varese. While it is an administrative building, it remains a splendid example of Lombard Baroque architecture. The surrounding park, open to the public, allows visitors to admire the grandeur of the building's facade and enjoy a quiet moment in one of the city's many green oases.

The local cuisine of Varese is a delightful reflection of its geography, blending the rustic flavors of the pre-Alpine mountains with the delicate freshness of the lake district. Visitors can expect a culinary experience rooted in Lombard traditions, characterized by hearty ingredients like cornmeal, butter, freshwater fish, and game. The food scene here is authentic and comforting, often revolving around seasonal produce and time-honored recipes that have been passed down through generations.

One of the most iconic dishes to try is Risotto con pesce persico (risotto with perch fillets), a staple of the lake region that perfectly marries creamy rice with the delicate taste of locally caught fish. Polenta is another undisputed king of the table, often served as Polenta Taragna—mixed with buckwheat flour and cheese—or accompanying rich stews and braised meats like cazoeula during the colder months. Cheese lovers should also look out for local dairy products, particularly the soft and creamy Gorgonzola, which is produced in the wider province.

Varese is perhaps most famous for its sweets, making it a paradise for dessert enthusiasts. The city's signature cake is the Dolce Varese, also known as Amor Polenta, a soft and golden loaf made with finely ground corn flour and almonds. Another must-try treat is the Brutti e Buoni ("Ugly but Good"), crunchy hazelnut or almond meringue cookies that originated in the nearby town of Gavirate but are a staple in every local bakery. For a taste of these traditional pastries, you might visit Pasticceria Maculan, a spot where locals indulge in their sweet tooth.

When it comes to drinks, the city has a unique claim to fame with the Apollo 11. This pink-hued aperitif was created in a historic local café in 1969 to celebrate the moon landing and remains a beloved pre-dinner ritual for residents. It is typically served in a flute with a drop of gin and a slice of orange. Beyond this unique cocktail, the region offers excellent craft beers and wines from the surrounding Lombardy area, perfect for pairing with a meal.

The dining culture in Varese ranges from elegant establishments in the city center to rustic trattorias tucked away in the hills. Locals appreciate leisurely meals that celebrate conviviality. For those seeking a traditional dining experience, Olona Restaurant Da Venanzio offers a welcoming atmosphere to sample regional specialties. Whether you are grabbing a quick espresso at a historic bar or sitting down for a multi-course Sunday lunch, the gastronomic spirit of Varese is sure to leave a lasting impression.

Preparing for a trip to Varese means getting ready to explore a city that perfectly balances urban elegance with natural splendor. To help you navigate the "Garden City" like a local and ensure your journey is as smooth as possible, we have compiled a list of essential practical advice for your stay.

1. Clothing and Gear: Given Varese's location at the foot of the Alps, the weather can be changeable. It is wise to dress in layers (the "onion style") to adapt to shifting temperatures. Since the city is known for its lush greenery, which is sustained by frequent rainfall, packing a sturdy umbrella or a waterproof jacket is a must, regardless of the season. Comfortable walking shoes are essential for exploring the cobblestone center and the gravel paths of the many villas and parks.
2. Transportation: The city center is compact and best explored on foot, allowing you to appreciate the architecture and gardens up close. For destinations further afield, such as the Sacro Monte or the lakefront, the local bus network (Autolinee Varesine) is efficient and reliable. There is also a scenic funicular railway that connects the Vellone station to the Sacro Monte. Taxis are available but typically need to be booked in advance or found at designated ranks; they cannot usually be hailed on the street.
3. Finances: The local currency is the Euro (€). Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants, and larger shops. However, it is highly recommended to carry some cash for small purchases, such as a coffee at a bar or a ticket for the local bus. ATMs (Bancomat) are plentiful. Tipping is not mandatory, as a service charge or "coperto" is often added to the bill, but leaving a small amount for good service is appreciated.
4. Health and Safety: Varese is generally a very safe city for tourists. Pharmacies are easily recognized by a green neon cross; they usually operate during standard shop hours, with a rotation system for night and weekend shifts (look for the "farmacia di turno" sign). For any emergencies, dial 112, which is the universal European emergency number.
5. Communication: The official language is Italian. While staff in hotels and major restaurants often speak English, it is less common in smaller shops or among the older population. Learning a few basic phrases like "Buongiorno" (Good morning) and "Grazie" (Thank you) goes a long way. Free Wi-Fi is often available in public squares and cafes, and SIM cards can be purchased at phone stores or some tobacconists with a valid ID.
6. Local Etiquette: Politeness is highly valued here. It is customary to greet shopkeepers with a "Buongiorno" or "Buonasera" when entering and leaving a store. If you are visiting religious sites, such as the chapels of the Sacro Monte or the Basilica of San Vittore, ensure you dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered). When at a market, avoid touching fruit and vegetables with your bare hands; wait to be served or use the provided gloves.
7. What to Avoid: Do not expect to eat dinner early; most restaurants do not open for the evening service until 7:30 PM or later. Also, avoid ordering a cappuccino after a meal. In local culture, milk-based coffees are strictly for breakfast, and an espresso (caffè) is the standard way to finish lunch or dinner.
8. Additional Tip: Be mindful of the "riposo" or lunch break. Many smaller shops and businesses in Varese close between 12:30 PM and 3:30 PM. Use this time to enjoy a leisurely lunch yourself or to explore the city's parks, which remain open and offer a peaceful midday retreat.

By keeping these tips in mind, you will be well-equipped to enjoy the relaxed pace and sophisticated charm of Varese. Whether you are hiking up the sacred mountain or sipping an aperitif in a historic square, you are sure to have a memorable and hassle-free experience.

While Varese is widely celebrated for its tranquil gardens and daytime elegance, the city transforms as the sun sets, offering a vibrant yet sophisticated nightlife scene. The local "movida" typically revolves around the ritual of the aperitivo, where friends gather to enjoy cocktails and light bites before dinner. The atmosphere is generally relaxed and convivial, catering to a mix of university students, young professionals, and families. The heart of this social activity is undoubtedly the city center, particularly around Piazza Monte Grappa and the pedestrianized streets branching off from Corso Matteotti, where numerous bars and cafes set up outdoor seating.

For those looking to start their evening with a distinct dining experience before hitting the bars, the city offers a variety of international options alongside traditional trattorias. A popular spot for a casual yet flavorful meal is Taeko Ramen. This venue provides a warm and inviting atmosphere, perfect for refueling with authentic Japanese dishes before continuing your night out in the bustling center.

Cultural entertainment plays a significant role in Varese's evening offerings. The city is not just about food and drink; it hosts a rich calendar of concerts, theatrical performances, and exhibitions. A key venue for such events is the Ville Ponti Congress Center. Set within a splendid park, this complex often hosts gala dinners, cultural gatherings, and music events that attract a well-dressed crowd. If you plan to attend an event here or at the nearby Teatro di Varese, a smart-casual dress code is recommended to blend in with the stylish local patrons.

Practical advice for enjoying Varese at night includes timing your outings correctly. The nightlife peaks on Friday and Saturday nights, though Thursday is also popular for university students. Most bars stay open until around 1:00 or 2:00 AM. Prices are reasonable compared to nearby Milan, with a cocktail typically costing between €8 and €12. Regarding safety, Varese is considered very safe for night walks, especially in the well-lit city center. However, public transport options decrease significantly late at night, so it is advisable to have a taxi number handy or pre-book a ride if you are staying outside the immediate center.

During the daytime, entertainment shifts towards leisure and shopping. If the weather does not permit a walk in the parks, you can visit the Belforte Shopping Center. Located just outside the main historic district, it offers a wide range of stores and services, providing a modern contrast to the city's historic boutiques. Whether you are browsing for Italian fashion or looking for a place to relax during a rainy afternoon, it serves as a convenient hub for entertainment and leisure.

Overall, the entertainment landscape in Varese is balanced and accessible. It may not have the frenetic energy of a major metropolis, but its charm lies in the quality of its venues and the warmth of its social scene. Whether you are sipping a Negroni in a historic square or enjoying a concert in a villa, the city offers a delightful way to spend your evenings.

Varese’s title as the "Garden City" is well-earned, not only for its manicured villa grounds but also for the extensive natural reserves and civic museums that preserve the region's heritage. Beyond the well-trodden paths of the main historic residences, the city offers a wealth of green spaces and cultural institutions that provide a deeper look into its artistic and natural history.

For those seeking immersion in nature, the Campo dei Fiori Regional Park is the city's most significant green lung. Dominating the skyline to the north of Varese, this protected area offers a network of hiking trails that wind through beech and chestnut forests, leading to spectacular viewpoints over the Lombard lakes and the Po Valley. It is also home to the fascinating "Cittadella di Scienze della Natura," which includes an astronomical observatory and a mountain botanical garden, making it a perfect destination for trekkers and science enthusiasts alike.

Closer to the water, Parco Luigi Zanzi in the Schiranna district offers a more relaxed outdoor experience. Situated directly on the shores of Lake Varese, this park is a favorite among locals for picnics and leisure. It features wide grassy areas, centuries-old trees, and direct access to the pedestrian and cycle path that encircles the lake. It is an ideal spot for a peaceful afternoon walk or for watching the rowing teams practice on the water.

In terms of culture, the Castello di Masnago is a standout institution. This medieval fortress, which was later transformed into a noble residence, now houses the Civic Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Visitors can admire a stunning contrast between the building's interiors—featuring elaborate 15th-century frescoes depicting courtly life—and the modern art collection it hosts, which includes works by prominent Italian artists from the 19th and 20th centuries.

Another key cultural site is the Civic Archaeological Museum, located within the Villa Mirabello. Conveniently situated in the same complex as the Estensi Gardens and Palace, this museum connects the city's present beauty with its ancient past. It displays significant prehistoric finds from the local pile-dwelling settlements, Roman artifacts, and Risorgimento memorabilia, offering a comprehensive timeline of the territory's human history.

For a truly unique experience, consider visiting the Casa Museo Lodovico Pogliaghi at the Sacro Monte. This eclectic house-museum was the atelier of the sculptor Lodovico Pogliaghi and is filled with a chaotic yet mesmerizing collection of art, archaeology, and curiosities from around the world. The highlight is the full-scale plaster model of the central door of the Duomo of Milan, which Pogliaghi designed, standing impressively within the studio.

Navigating Varese is relatively straightforward, as the city is compact and pedestrian-friendly, but it also boasts a reliable public transport network for reaching the outskirts and the surrounding hills. The primary mode of urban transportation is the bus system, operated by Autolinee Varesine. There is no metro or tram network in the city; instead, a fleet of orange or purple buses connects the city center with the railway stations, residential neighborhoods, and key points of interest such as the hospital and the university campuses.

A unique and historic feature of the local transport system is the Funicular of Sacro Monte. This charming cable railway connects the Vellone station (accessible by bus line C) to the village of Santa Maria del Monte. It offers a scenic and effortless way to ascend the mountain, providing spectacular views of the lakes and the plain below. The funicular typically operates on weekends and holidays, with daily service during the summer months, making it both a practical link and a tourist attraction in its own right.

The ticketing system is integrated under the CTPI (Consorzio Trasporti Pubblici Insubria), meaning the same tickets are often valid for different bus lines within the urban area. A standard single journey ticket costs approximately €1.60 and is valid for 90 minutes from the time of validation. For visitors planning to use the bus frequently, a carnet of 10 tickets is a cost-effective option. Tickets can be purchased physically at newsstands and tobacco shops (look for the large "T" sign outside) or digitally via mobile apps like DropTicket or MooneyGo, which allow you to buy fares directly on your smartphone.

For a smooth experience, it is essential to remember that you cannot usually buy tickets on board the bus, so you should purchase them in advance. Once you board, you must validate your paper ticket immediately in the yellow or green machines to avoid fines. Operating hours generally run from around 5:30 AM to 9:00 PM, with reduced frequency on Sundays and public holidays. Be aware that night bus services are limited, so it is wise to check the latest timetables at bus stops or on the official website if you plan to travel late in the evening.

If you prefer alternatives to public transit, taxis are available but operate differently than in many other cities; they cannot be hailed on the street. You must call Radio Taxi Varese or head to designated taxi ranks, such as those found at the railway stations or Piazza Monte Grappa. For those who enjoy cycling, the city offers bike-sharing services, though given the hilly terrain of Varese, renting an e-bike is often the most comfortable choice for exploring the area. Car-sharing services like E-Vai are also present, offering a flexible option for trips to the nearby lakes.

Accommodation in Varese reflects the city's dual identity as a bustling provincial capital and a relaxing garden retreat. Visitors can choose from a wide spectrum of options, ranging from elegant hotels housed in Liberty-style villas to modern business establishments and charming Bed & Breakfasts. Whether you are looking for a luxury experience surrounded by centuries-old parks or a budget-friendly guesthouse, the city offers solutions to suit various travel styles and budgets.

For those who wish to be in the heart of the action, the city center is the most convenient area to stay. Booking a hotel near Corso Matteotti or Piazza Monte Grappa places you within walking distance of the main shopping streets, historic cafes, and major transport links, making it easy to explore the city without a car. This area is particularly well-suited for first-time visitors who want immediate access to restaurants and cultural landmarks like the Estensi Gardens.

Travelers seeking a more tranquil and scenic experience should consider the areas surrounding Lake Varese or the foothills of the Sacro Monte. Here, you can find accommodations that offer panoramic views, lush surroundings, and a slower pace of life. These locations are ideal for nature lovers and those planning to hike or cycle, although having a car is often recommended for easy access to the city center.

Regarding costs, Varese is generally more affordable than nearby Milan, yet prices can fluctuate depending on the season. Budget travelers can find hostels and economical guesthouses, while mid-range and luxury options are available for those seeking more comfort. It is common practice to book accommodation through major online platforms, though contacting smaller B&Bs directly can sometimes yield a more personal experience.

Booking Tip: While Varese is less crowded than major tourist hubs, it is strategically close to Milan and Malpensa Airport. Consequently, during major trade fairs in Milan (such as Design Week) or peak summer months, availability can drop and prices may rise. It is highly advisable to book your stay well in advance during these periods to secure the best rates and locations.

For those looking to explore the surroundings, Varese serves as an excellent base for day trips to several interesting nearby locations:

Among these destinations, Como is a world-renowned gem located just a short drive away. It is famous for its breathtaking lakefront, the majestic Gothic Cathedral, and the funicular railway that connects the city to the hilltop village of Brunate, offering sweeping views. Somma Lombardo is another highlight for history enthusiasts, home to the impressive Castello Visconti di San Vito, a well-preserved fortress filled with frescoes and historical artifacts. Meanwhile, Gallarate offers a vibrant urban atmosphere with excellent shopping opportunities and the MAGA, a notable museum dedicated to modern and contemporary art.

These nearby destinations offer a glimpse into the diverse culture and landscapes of the region.

Shopping in Varese offers a delightful mix of elegance and tradition, centered around the pedestrian-friendly streets of the historic core. The main artery for retail therapy is Corso Matteotti, lined with charming porticoes that shelter an array of boutiques, jewelry stores, and high-end fashion outlets. Walking through this area allows visitors to enjoy the city’s sophisticated atmosphere while browsing for Italian leather goods, clothing, and accessories in a relaxed setting.

For those in search of a more extensive modern retail experience, the Belforte Shopping Center is the primary destination. Located a short distance from the city center, this mall features a wide selection of international brands, electronics stores, and a large supermarket. It is a practical stop for travelers needing to stock up on essentials or those looking for familiar names in a convenient, all-weather environment.

To experience the authentic local lifestyle, a visit to the street markets is highly recommended. The city hosts a vibrant market in Piazza della Repubblica and surrounding streets, typically held on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Here, stalls overflow with fresh produce, regional delicacies, flowers, and clothing, offering a lively glimpse into the daily habits of the residents and a chance to find unique bargains.

No shopping trip in Varese is complete without picking up some edible souvenirs. The city is renowned for its confectionery, making sweet treats a perfect gift to take home. You can visit Pasticceria Maculan to purchase the famous Dolce Varese, a golden cornmeal cake, or the crunchy Brutti e Buoni cookies. Additionally, local food shops offer artisanal cheeses and honey from the nearby valleys, capturing the authentic flavors of the Lombardy region.